Darren Groves

Rarebits are closing down unfortunately, he had run out of the correct door seals when I enquired a few weeks ago. He has stock of some stuff still, but he is running it all down

Thanks Kevin. Never even noticed that filter, so not something I chose to do.

Hi, It must be a setting related to my login then. I look at the forum on 3 devices normally, Windows 10 Laptop, iPad & Mobile. I also logged in today from where I work on one of their PC's (Windows XP) on all 4 devices on 2 separate networks (3 if you count my 3G connection on the mobile) it doesn't show new content. The only common factor is my user account, so not my end Kevin......got to be a glitch or setting in the back end somewhere. Darren

Haha...ok, maybe a bit strong. I was told (not sure it's true) that Mike Brewer has interest in a business that sells protective clothing, so if true it's all just product placement I guess.

Any news? Still not working for me.

Ed China is a kn*b... Can't watch him. Anyone that needs to wear protective goggles, ear defenders and gloves just to drill a hole......oh, dear! Caught a bit of him at last years Classic Motor Show, had to walk away.

Keep up the good work Roger, looks like you'll get there before me so I'll let you do all the head scratching for me and I can just pick up your fixes The last Area Meeting is 1st December down here in North Devon, so that will be the last run of the year then I start taking things apart for the swap over. I'm back in the workshop tomorrow so will remove the retaining bar on the manifold that's in the wrong place and relocate further forward. I can then give it the final clean and paint. I was going to get the fuel rail drilled for the injectors by a local engineers, but have decided I'll do it myself on a pillar drill instead. I'll need the ends of the rail machined so they're perfectly flat and tapped so they are square. I've decided on these AN-6 type fuel fittings on the fuel, http://r.ebay.com/n2Lfj3 & http://r.ebay.com/rMMUwZ & http://r.ebay.com/WDiZYX. Actually not that keen on the anodised fittings, but seems the simplest way of doing it.

I actually can't remember how I've remove these in the past, and I've done a few..... I have access to a press, so would probably just press the shaft down. Alternatively butt the housing down onto the jaws of the vice, don't have the vice tight, leave the nut on the end of the shaft and wack downwards. Both methods will leave the bearing in the housing, but you should be able to tap out easy enough.

Another very productive day on the inlet manifold, first up was to incorporate the IAC Valve into the plenum. The valve needs a filtered atmospheric air supply, which feeds into the plenum after the throttle body. I decided to use mini filter direct onto the valve (Thanks Nick for the idea), it's supported with a bracket available from most plumbing shops, they have a M10 female thread so I just had to weld on a suitable bolt. A short section of 22mm tube gets the air into the plenum. You can also see a cable guide on top of the plenum, just so it has a relatively straight run to the throttle body. I should be able to adapt my existing cable. I also had to figure out a way of securing the fuel rail, otherwise it will just fly off when the fuel gets up to pressure. I thought I'd had a good idea in using a section of steel bar between the 2 middle injectors with M10 nuts welded on. The Fuel rail could then be drilled and tapped the same and 2 short lengths of threaded bar would have provided the restraints. Now look closely at the photo, can you spot my deliberate mistake? The bar is actually too close to the flanges and fouls the manifold studs in the head......bugger! So that will be off next week and an alternative devised. Here's a couple more photos:

Hi Roger, I've been following your progress on the Sideways Forum, sometimes you just need to share the problem and it all starts to make sense anyway, so well done for finding the issue. Take a look here: https://www.diyautotune.com/support/tech/other/base-timing/ this tells you how to use the trigger wizard to make sure the software and actual timing readings match. Also if you are using a timing light with an advance function, make sure it's set to zero, the wasted spark set-up can confuse them a little. Keep up the good work! Darren

So after picking up the inlet manifold flanges earlier the week, it meant I could crack on and start putting it together. I won't add too many words, I'll let the photos tell the story. This is the flanges clamped into position in the head with the runners & plenum tacked into place. Now with everything fully welded and the blanking ends of the plenum added. A smaller diameter tube is added to take the flange for the Throttle Body. The 2 take offs are for the MAP Sensor and Fuel Presure Regulator. The holes for the injector bungs are done, they are just sitting roughly in position in this photo waiting to be welded in. So all that is left to do is decide how to add the connection for the Idle Air Control Valve, give it a good clean to get the debris out of the inside and then paint it.

Hi Roger, This is the exact reason I chose to stick with the EDIS, for me it's a known quantity and it works well. One less new piece on a very large jigsaw I didn't have to worry about. I have done no reading on how to a coil driver to work, but presumably you've been into ignition settings in TunerStudio and changed from EDIS to something that matches your coil driver? If I were you I'd post the question on the Sideways forum, someone on there will have gone your route I'm sure. Darren

If I click on 'View New Content' there are no topics, but if you go to the Forum home there are, so seems it's not working. Thought it was just my Laptop, but checked on my phone as well and not working there either and yes I am signed in on both devices. Anyone else having an issue?

Took a ride over to local TSSC member who's been making the flanges for my inlet manifold, came back with these.

Used Dave Mac Propshafts a few times, very good. http://davemacprops.co.uk/dmphome.html

Keep up the good work Roger. I'm trying to be patient with finishing off the wiring, so am waiting until the inlet manifold is made so I can get the wiring the exact lengths for everything under the bonnet. The extra length looms are available separately and I was glad I spent the extra on it. Still loads of chopping, splicing and soldering needed but at least the majority is a straight run from loom connector to component, less chance of gremlins. Darren

Blimey Roger, that's a serious bank of connectors! I opted for the extra length loom to minimise the amount of joins needed, where I needed to I soldered and covered in heatshrink. Hope the ignition part goes smoothly.

All the traders seem to list both for the Herald, not sure why, probably for different markets to suit the climate of the country....I'm guessing. The 13lb one will allow the car to get hotter before allowing water past, if the rest of the cooling system is in good order, I'd just go with that. Good luck.

I've always used a 13lb cap on my 13/60, I fitted a 7lb one briefly and had similar issues with it pushing water out the overflow, with no signs the car was running hot. I always use an 88deg thermostat as I find the engine runs too cool otherwise. If I was you, I'd use the 13lb cap and you'll probably find it will be fine, don't look for problems that aren't there. I tend to fill the system with the front as high as possible to get the filler as high as possible.

Spot on....

Thanks Pete. The CO was reading 1.71% and the MoT tester said that was about right, but seemed too low to me. I always used to aim around the 3% for my Herald. I only got him to measure it to give me an idea of where the carbs were at, it wasn't done as part of the MoT just while it was there. Will richen it up a bit to see if it runs any better.

What would be the target CO reading when adjusting the carbs on a MK1 2L Vitesse

Autosparks are excellent, they probably supply Rimmers anyway hence the price difference. I've had several harnesses from them over the years, all excellent quality.

Nice job Moe, looks the business. I got the rev counter back from Speedy Cables yesterday, all works fine now but still needed a pull up resistor between the signal and 12v supply. Just waiting on the fabrication of the manifold flanges before I can get cracking with the next stage.

Sorted, missed the inner lug. So piston lifting as it should now. I'll order my T-Shirt.....