wimpus

Hi all, Been looking at some dents etc on the right side wing of my 2nd hand (ex-usa) bonnet. The edge is bend + a dent above the handle.. Sadly that dent gets bigger once I close the handle 😑. Now what to do about it ? Maybe heat up the dent and let it cool down with ice/cold water so it shrinks ? Also underside sticks out a bit past the sill. Other side is fine, that panel was very bend. So replaced that with an NOS (1983) wing, wish I had done the other side now to as that fits very nice.

A short video. Look... the ground moves ! 🤣 20210605_163044.mp4

So.. my main problem was no overdrive and then found the parts of the spacer on the drainplug. Yesterday I had a go at fixing the od. Bought the OD tool to remove the plugs under the sump of a J-type. Still hard to get to as there is an exhaust in the way. The pressure filter was indeed blocked. Fitted my clean spare one & filled the oil. Still no go.. nothing. So tunnel out, the oil drained again in a clean container (to re-use again). Solenoid was also working fine. But found 2 parts of the relief valve that where stuck in each other. Got those apart, gave it a good clean. Blew through all the oilways to (thanks to my handy Volvo overdrive j-type manual and an old spitfire manual). And .... it low works ! Tested the pressure to, bought a gauge in the US to test all the Triumph overdrives (mostly to fix a friend his one ..). Pressure was around 315/325psi.

More work done.. A-/B-posts done for now. Next step... windscreen out job 😓 When I had done one side and cleaning my gun.. the compressor failed. The pressure regulator went bad. So got that fixed sunday morning and we where back

No, she always arrives home under her own power ! 😂

Strangly.. box was full of oil. But i think the laygear shaft failed or bearings Swarf everywhere.. also in all the sycro hubs, mainshaft top bearing etc etc etc 80w90 gl4 (millers) was used.

Seems the mainshaft + 1st gear is scrap in my spare box New 4th gear/motion shaft, 1st gear, mainshaft etc ordered .. Parts coming from Germany, the Netherlands and the UK. Lucky enough bought a NOS laygear last year. Hopefully can build up the spare box. And hopefully the overdrive works again after a good clean out.. Its going to be an expensive one.

So what i think is that part no 8 or 11 has failed. Now to search for a new mainshaft and input for my spare box ....

Nick & Marcus, Ive used KSM (japaneese) bearings on mine. Its not that what has failed me now. But a spacer that runs both sides next to the bearing of the mainshaft tip. Its not the 3rd gear clip (always replace that one when the box is open). The parts that came out, i had measured then. To thick to be 3rd gear clip, so had a look at my other failed box.

Yesterday suddenly no overdrive anymore. So had a look.. still 12v to the solenoid and it clicked. This morning stripped out the interior. Solenoid tested out of the box.. working fine. I had bought a pressure gauge. So fitted that... no pressure at all. Drained the oil.. metal bits could be heard falling ! In the last 4 years i have rebuild my 1 in the car and spare every year once. -First time 3rd gear clip. -2nd front bearing -3rd time front bearing Last october/november the last one failed massivly. Laygear broken + shaft, all bearings bad, mainshaft tip bad etc etc etc. Now this.. Its not the 3rd gear clip , but a spacer from the mainshaft bearing. Really dont know what to do. As the one with bad mainshaft etc.. still could not get the parts for it. And yes I do around 15.000miles / year.

Been looking up.. Found 2 brands that I like and GL4 spec. (Pic below) Millers can be bought in Belgium (there is an dealer in the Netherlands), but a bit costly now. I change my gearbox oil once a year, sometimes 2 times. As I do 25.000kms/ year. The diff, got a drain plug installed in that. So once a year I drain the oil of the diff. Maybe not needed, but for that 600ml of oil..

Hi all. I've been using Millers 80w90 gl4 oil for Fox her gearbox/overdrive /diff for years now. But as I nearly cant get it here anymore, so I was searching. Seems Triumph said to use SAE 90 gl4 oil.. So whats the best ? 80w90 or SAE90 ? Wim

Yes always use the payen, the only one to go for. Heard to many horror story's if the silver ones failing after a few miles..

The seals and pin i've done so many times that I have a few ways to do them and doesnt take long. Strangly on my left door the outer seal is a pain to fit.. Yes got central locking since 2013. Its now on its 2nd chineese kit. Need to uograde the wiring to more copper wires.. China wiring is plastic with 3 or 4 little copper wires, in the winter when cold the wires/plastic could break off... And had the motors filled with water.. But thats now been taken care off

Door is now back on the car..

Today.. Fully stripped the door, sandblasted the inside, rust convertor on the inside & green zink primer & then outside in 2k grey primer ! Sadly it started to rain.. but i was sort of prepaired (last pic).

More work was done.. and all in 1 rainy day. First to remove the door. Found more rust and bad seamsealer (really hate the stuff! ) Will sandblast the whole area and do it right later

Really wanted to strip it until near the windscreen seal. But bad weather was coming and didnt want to get the wiper arms off, wheelbox bezels etc.. Sadly in the late afternoon it was amazing weather.. but I was to fed up

Some more stuff done sunday. (Saturday builded up the front end of a 1968 Porsche 911 ! ) Next will be the windscreen.. a job i'm scared off 😅 Or the door.. Next weekend is a 4 day one.. so could do some work, if the weather is good... The mesh of the heater box had a few layers of primer & paint in the mesh... a nightmare to clean up the little holes.

Last 2 days I have been doing some more bodywork. Rear wings and rear deck had a few little marks and dents. So sorted that out now. Also while I was at it.. sanded off the sills and bye green zink phosphate !

This week had a look inside my passenger door due to rust.. I noticed the stonechip paint that a 'friend' (back in 2011 ) had sprayed inside started to flake a lot. So did a good clean up at the door bottom. Door does need to come off to be stripped fully, so will sandblast the inside then to. For now some rustconvertor has been sprayed in. But again not bad for 43 years and all solid.

Today had a look at the door.. And fixed it. Bended the doorskin out of the way, sandblasted, rust cut out, painted inside, then weld a patch in etc. Sadly ran out of green primer.. so back to red

Yep those are the ones !

Thanks for the help guys ! Measured and marked 11degrees on the pully, started engine and it was aroundTDC/ 1° . Previous owner put in electronic ignition kit, so probably never checked the timing(thats my guess). Adjusted the timing, engine picked up great and sounded a lot better. My friend drove it around the block (as not much time), but was amazed. Much more power in lower revs (before only above 3000), exhaust isnt as loud anymore and no pops anymore on overrun ! Starts up better when hot to. But could hear something ratteling up front. The fan has movement, cant get to the bolts etc... so means rad out. Always more work !😂

I dont need to be worried on paint.. Nearly whole car is in primer and.. door still needs to be stripped ! In her new dry garage incl a wall full of Spitfire spares and TR7 doors that are for a friend in the Netherlands (still sort of travel ban).