DVD3500

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Tesla Wallbox: https://shop.tesla.com/de_de/product/gen-3-wall-connector Already in the 3rd generation. In fact there was a report in the German press that recycling car batteries is difficult because they are constantly being re-used and hardly ever being "thrown away"

I thought she was pouring electricity into the bag for her electric car.... 😄

Hence why I was looking for some software for mine. 😄

Ooohh.. that looks tasty! I might give it a whirl!

Sounds like an ancient Greek war machine... 🙂 As I said, I am mildly concerned that the mods we are doing (Like a said, about 100BHP/110 Lbft) may be too much for a standard 1500 gearbox/diff as well as wanting easier higher speed (50 mph and up) cruising. BUT... I might get a lead foot from time to time... I don't want the added complexity of an overdrive for a number of reasons and I was thinking a 3.27 ought to be a good ratio but not sure it can handle the torque...

Thanks. Been there done that.... as you said, it has errors/omissions and is federal. Mine will of course be based on the European LHD drive version for the most part. I could print those out and cut out the bits I need and draw the lines by hand if I have to but I was hoping to find something more user friendly.... As you say, there MUST be something out there but likely nothing free. I was thinking of PowerPoint but I can only do multi-color lines as "gradients" which has two lines run parallel (except of course if one of the dual colors is white):

Is Blackline and aftermarket supplier or a way of indicating a certain year of production or something?

I have found a few tools online but they usually are for general electronic use and not cars. The lack things like the symbol for a wiper motor etc. I can of course just make screenshots of existing ones and hack it all together but I was wondering if anyone knew of a "free" one. I am totally redoing my wiring and while it will be based on the original loom as much as possible there will be a few differences that I want to document in case I.... Wait what was the word,... oh yeah! Forget!

Good to know as my car likely have 100 to 110 lb/ft of torque…

I think what people are getting at is getting the car to move forward and how much torque is needed to do that. On a bicycle trying to take off in the highest gear is harder so the same should be true here. Still, that doesn't necessarily mean things are under more stress... right?

I read somewhere they were hacked. We have had a n increase of attacks at work as well... And a lot of our Russian colleagues are quitting... hmmm... coincidence...?

I got to ride in a Spitfire this week for the first time in a long time... felt really good! On the way home we put the top up and I forgot to duck so I have scratches on both sides of my head... once from getting in and once from getting out!

I thought the last batch of 3.27 diffs (on GT6s) were a bit stronger?

I was cleaning out the garage one day and I forgot the next morning was "trash day": Not your normal pick up when you throw things out like beds and sofas etc. The kids had a set of garden furniture that I put out and literally as my back was turned they were gone! Luckily they had outgrown it but it still annoyed me.... When I work on the car I almost always roll it in and out. I rarely leave it out I put a cover on it. So far people have said/done nothing...

Luckily your body is a wonderful thing and most damage dissappears over time. I had to do a lung test because they thought I was having an auto-immune problem. The technician kept scowling and telling me I wasn't blowing hard enough and making "tut tut" sounds. (Boring details: You sit in what looks like a very small phone booth and they pinch your nose shut and you blow in a tube...) I pointed out to her it might help if she wasn't sitting on the tube! After that even though i really couldn't tell much difference she stepped being annoying. They claimed I have low lung capacity but my first child was considered "borderline fat and short" according to their stats and my second child who was shorter and heavier was considered "normal" because the stats had changed!

One winter the brackets on my '76 Firebird rusted through so we went to a friend of my Dad's as he had some metal working machines and a lot of spares. After fabricating a gasket out of a tin can (as you do) we reconnected the exhaust and used some of that crap-tastic putty to make it seal a little better... you are supposed to let it dry at least 24 hours or 15 minutes at idle. So three we are, in a sealed garage, in deep winter in Michigan my Dad and his friend burning through cancer sticks at about one ever 2 minutes... So I open the house door to the garage for fresh air and as I step into the cold (subzero °F or °C) night I see my shadow cast on the clean white snow.... and then it disappear as my Dad's friends locks me out of the garage... He still thinks it's funny to this day... BTW: When I moved to France in 1994 I had to have a tuberculosis test done. They asked me how long I had been smoking to which I said "never" (which was true at the time... of course when living in France one must suck on some cigarette at some point..) He should me the scarring and damage my lungs had... all from second hand smoke from my Dad...

There are little clay ovens you put a big candle in and they are supposed to keep things like green houses and chicken coops warm. The candle is very broad and the oven itself has a wide diameter so unless you purposely kick it it really can't fall over. The idea is the candle warms up the ceramic/clay and goes out after a few hours but the ceramic/clay still gives off heat.... I actually looked into on of those pre-heaters for the Porsche, both for the oil and the coolant but I moved to an apartment and had no access to power so I made sure I got a car battery with the maximum amount of amps and used electrical stuff...

Actually in the summer I tended to leave my heater pointing at the screen and if I was in in slow moving traffic I would even turn the blower on to help dissipate heat. All with the top off of course... I never really had a problem... I was plenty warm in my Spitfire with the top on (winters in Michigan are real winters with meter high snow and subzero temps Fahrenheit OR Celsius...) , probably thanks to a loose gearbox tunnel and a bit of cardboard in front of the radiator but the windows steamed up from time to time and I reckon a fiberglass hard top with now read quarter windows might be steamier ... There are actually electrically heated jackets that look OK as well so I really doubt we will freeze... I just want to be able to see!!!! Here in Germany that law is you are not to let a car run idle for more than 3 minutes and all standard press says you should scrape ice off the car FIRST then start it and drive away. The say letting the engine idle only warms the engine and if you take off like a bat out of h€ck the cold transmission and brakes (?) will suffer... Oh yeah, and you are squeezing dead dino juice fumes into the air.... As you all know, I am a bit of a greeny (not GreenPeace for sure but I do try my best: I cycle/walk pretty much everywhere, reduce, re-use, re-purpose, re-cycle etc...) But I draw the line at the whole scraping then starting the engine... I proved it to my wife. We did it the "official" way. So after huffing around the car and working ourselves up a bit we get in, start the car and happens? Everything fogs up or even freezes again and I can't see a dam/n thing! We have tons of children around, there are bollards to squeeze traffic and slow it down AND the road next to our house is the main thoroughfare for people walking their dogs. I simply cannot drive until the windows and windshield are free and I know they will stay that way. I kind of compromise now. I scrape the main parts that I absolutely need to see: Windshield, front windows, rear (backend) window. I start the engine but I do try to do the rest as fast as I can. It's diesel so it take forever to warm up anyway... A friend showed me how his electric Enyaq (Skoda) has an app to start warming it up before he takes of. Can be used to cool it down too. I kinda think that is neat.

I will have to see if such an equivalent exists here in Germany. My Mom could bring over some from the States for sure. I used it on my Porsche 924 because my heater fan motor broke so while you were moving air came through but not at a standstill and I remember RainX (other brands are available) working well...

Way too practical and simple... I need a 3D printed, one off, hand-sanded cover made of extruded bamboo ... 😄

Yep. Those are on the list. Might not help fogging though. Methinks a stick with a rag/sponge is a great low tech option. 🙂

DOH! I should have figured that... When I google GT6 heater it looked like the case had 2 extra pipes coming out the bottom as opposed to the holes a Spitfire has so i presumed those hooked up to the vents... the lack of tubing should have been a clue! The car will always be in the garage and I do plan on keeping it above freezing in there so that is likely the best course of action... Not sure what you mean... do you have picture?

Having to do a lot of manual labor (shoveled nearly 3 tons of dirt by hand) my mind got to wandering. My hard top is a fiberglass "Körbler" that can turn into a targa. It is very thick. The roof is about 3 inches thick and the sides are at least 2 inches. I want my Spitfire to be used year round (as I did my previous Spitfire). In my old one with just the softtop the side windows fogged up a lot. As I was young and flexible and without dependents I didn't mind having a towel in the car to wipe them down occasionally. When I saw a video of someone reviewing a MKIII GT6 I saw the eyeball vents read in the "Guide to Originality" that extra venting had been added to help things like fogging. I got to wondering if a GT6 heater might help even if the passenger eyeball is pretty far away from the side window. As GT6 heater casings are hard to get I was thinking of modifying a Spitfire heater case, cutting the holes and getting vents that look as close to the GT6 as possible. I am overthinking this, aren't I? Or am I? If I were to go through with it are there any other differences I need to know? The controls look the same as a Spitfire... Or would a Smart/Micro fan motor do just as much? Or a stick with a sponge on the end? Thanks!

Those valves can be easily replaced. Any aquarium supply place has them. In fact I have one in the pipe form the bottle and one in the pipe to each water jet. I get the impression the pressure is slightly higher but that could be wishful thinking...