Stratton Jimmer

I see what you mean Jonny, I will whip the wheel off and have a look.

I used some stiff foil from a disposable barbecue to cover the aperture. It worked well and was easy to form and fit.

I ordered the replacement bracket from Canley - excellent service as usual. It has arrived and I find myself confused when I look at it. You can see in the photograph that the front upper horizontal edge (furthest from camera) is not the same as the rear. If this bracket were placed directly on the chassis and welded on, it would be at the same sort of angle that the existing "bent" bracket is. I'm assuming that it should sit perpendicular to the chassis in the vertical plane so that the lower wishbone mounting bolt sits in a parallel line with the chassis. Why is there this difference in the two horizontal mount points as more clearly seen in photo 2 with my mugshot? There's an additional question in my mind... The WSM 5.106 appears to show this bracket with the two bolt holes on the top which then begs the question, should the bracket be bolted on rather than welded?

That's a very good article so thanks for the link Alan.

The welds are solid enough and are skewed at the same angle as the bracket. There's insufficient room to swing a hammer with anywhere near enough force to shift the bracket. I fear that the welds might crack if there were enough force applied. Think its a case of grind off the old and on with the new.

Here's the guilty bracket. The wishbone bolt is loose.

Gosh, this is all very interesting. I'm temporarily refitting my "bent" suspension in order that I can get the car to a suitable welder's facility. Getting the radius arm bush into place is proving awkward as the bush is out of alignment with the bracket's inner hole by about a millimetre. I have made a "slug" to lead the bolt into the hole. The slug is a cut down bolt with a tapered leading head.

That sounds feasible Colin.

I get my spin off filters from the club shop. No complaints from me!

Hi Folks, My GT6 Mk3 - early rotoflex has a misaligned bracket on the rear suspension which needs to be replaced. Canley show the part as being adjustable. My question is simply, why does it need to be adjustable? A further question - is this bracket simply welded on to the chassis? REAR WISHBONE BRACKET ROTOFLEX LH - ADJUSTABLE Part No. 215747

Very nice!

My early Mk3 GT6 has HS4 SUs and runs very well with only tiny tuning changes being made now and again. That is to say that I check the balance every six months or so and also stick the old colourtune in to ensure they haven't drifted off. Like I say, they have never needed more than the slightest adjustment. My sixfire has run reasonably well with HS6 carbs but does run better with CDSE150 Strombergs. Due to a minor issue with the strommies it currently has the SUs back on which are OK. I can't see your problem being a carburettor one so recommend that you do follow Pete's advice... He's rarely (if ever) wrong.

I work on a heritage railway and most of our locomotives have all Whitworth threaded bolts, set screws, studs and nuts.

Better quality covers are "breathable" which means that you wouldn't have to remove it for ventilation. I suggest that you look for that feature when you purchase one. Better dry than wet!

Johny is right. I had a problem with the mechanical fuel pump overpowering my float valves giving the symptoms that you describe and solved it with 3mm of additional gasket between the pump body and the block. Later, once I had rebuilt the carbs, changed the rubber pipes for Gates Barricade, installed an additional fuel filter just before the carb's "Tee" piece and gotten rid of every last miniscule rubber speck I was able to remove the additional gasket and all is now well.

I absolutely agree with you there Johny. Anyway, here are the photos of the radius arm and its chassis mount which is well inboard!

Well, things are not at all like either book. The radius arms are of the adjustable type but are straight with no offset at all. The eye holes are at 90 degrees to the rod. The length of the offside one was approximately 14.7" measured with a steel tape. The nearside one was 15". The brackets to which they fit are offset to cater for the angle between the hub and the chassis. Pictures to follow...

The WSM keys to the two drawings are definitely swapped over as there is only one dimension on the straight rod and two for the offset rod. Haynes seems to have it right. The Vitesse has a longer wheelbase than the GT6 so I expect there to be differences in the radius rod length. I'm about to get the overalls on and go take a look at the six. I will let you know what I find.

In the other thread, Uncle Pete suggested that the brackets are angled so that the radius arm has eyes perpendicular to the arm with no offset.

Just read through that thread and it doesn't really help. I need to see if my radius arm eyes are offset as per the diagram or straight. I will find out tomorrow when I take off the offside. These two images which I took when I fitted the CV shafts look as though the radius arm has no offset. In which case, how long should it be?

I have the hard copy of that manual Johny and agree that the keys to the two drawings seem to have been swapped over. If that is the case, then the Haynes manual would agree with the WSM. I was hoping someone would know the definitive dimensions. When the weather is better tomorrow, I will whip the offside wheel off and measure that radius arm for a comparison.

Suspecting that there is something not quite right with my nearside rear suspension, I wanted to check the length of the adjustable radius arm. Haynes suggests that it is 16.71" and the Vitesse is 14.71" while the Triumph Workshop Manual shows it the other way round albeit that the diagram and its key are incorrect. What should it be? Here are two photos of the relevant diagrams from each book.

I would suspect the diode pack. Had one go on my old Landrover and it exhibited the same symptoms as described in Post 1.

Very smart looking motor car.

Welcome to the madhouse. As others have said, that's a very nice looking car. Hope to be in the Paignton area next summer with our Spit so will look out for you.