Stratton Jimmer

Thank you one and all, I will stick with my original set up. I did find it interesting that the cause for rust may be condensation on the inside of the roof panel. I don't fancy removing the head lining to look though.

Thanks Doug.

HI folks, It has been suggested to me that the roof edge finisher on the Mk3 GT6 is not necessary and that removing it can eliminate a water trap so preventing potential corrosion. Does anyone have any thoughts on this? The part number is 814628. Hopefully this image from Rimmer's will indicate it.

Definitely sounds like a blocked matrix. Bad luck!

Dead right Colin. The small Mountney is only good for developing muscles like Popeye!

Thanks chaps, I will do as you suggest and let you know the outcome.

Having refitted the carbs, the car ran well for a couple of weeks (circa 200 Miles) then the rear carb started playing up with the piston sticking in the up position... NOT GOOD! I have temporarily reverted to using the HS6 SUs and it is running well but having stripped the Strombergs yet again, I can't find what is causing the piston to stick. I'm open to suggestions.

The GT6 suffered a failed tyre which was 8 years old. The sidewall failed with no trace of a puncture wound to be found. It was a cheap Chinese "Mohawk" tyre.

My Mk3 GT6 has a 12" Mountney which is way too small. My Sixfire has a 14" Moto Lita which is much better. The GT6 will be getting a change of steering wheel shortly. (It's on my Xmas present list!)

The RAC has this to say: There’s a useful rule of thumb to bear in mind. Tyre experts Michelin recommend that, after five years or more on your vehicle tyres should be inspected at least once a year by a professional. Then, if they’re still on your car ten years after they were manufactured then they should be replaced anyway, as a precaution.

Jeepers! I only ever aim for 100bhp and count myself lucky if I get over 85.

Any chance of a photograph Aid?

There's obviously a high resistance joint somewhere in either the +ve feed or the earth return line. Disconnect the battery and resistance check each side. once you have determined if it is feed or return, find the joints in the line and recheck the resistance at each point until you locate the bad joint. Testing for voltage isn't a good way to fault find this type of snag as most meters have very high resistance themselves and consequently will mask the error. Somewhere in the dashed bits is a high resistance: BATT +ve ----- loom ------ Light Switch ----- loom ----- filament -----loom ----- EARTH -ve Voltage checking may give erroneous readings as you may have an effective circuit like this: 12 volts BATT +ve ----- Light Switch ----- FAULTY CONNECTOR (3 ohms?) ----- Filament (3 ohms) ------ EARTH -ve The 12 volts splits equally across the 3 ohm faulty connector and the 3 ohm filament so you only get 6 volts at the filament. Putting a meter in place of the filament you get: 12 volts BATT +ve ----- Light Switch ----- FAULTY CONNECTOR (3 ohms?) ----- Meter (20,000 ohms) ----- EARTH -ve 3 ohms of faulty connector is insignificant compared to the 20,000 ohms of the meter which will read nearly 12 volts.

Out just now in the GT6, there was an E type in a layby on the A361 just north of the Vickers Roundabout with its bonnet raised and an anxious looking 'driver' peering underneath. I would have stopped and offered assistance but there was already another car there and no space to stop. Poor man's E Type 1, E Type 0!

Here's some info from the Haynes SU Carb manual:

FE1 City GT Radial, 165/80R13 83T all round. Reasonably priced (£59 each) with good reviews and they compare well to many more expensive brands.

My loom is a little different in that it exits the bulkhead adjacent to the front of the nearside engine bay valance, runs along the valance and then to the offside along the front chassis member. Here a return line runs back to the centre of the chassis member to feed the headlights. Hopefully these pictures will make it clear. Mind you, these are most likely not the original routing.

That's a definite possibility Cliff. Those pick up links are what actuates the choke's speed up by effectively lowering the jet which has the same effect as lifting the needle. More fuel gets delivered!

Yes. Pete is right and it is the one shown in the final picture with the bent pick up link.

I can't help but notice the bend in one of your pick up links. Both links should be the same length else the waxstat jets will move differently to different relative positions.

That is a definite possibility on a non-overdrive Vitesse as I did that job on my Mk1 2L back in 1976.

Forget the brake servo, buy yourself a pair of traditional divers boots and your brake will work brilliantly.

Thanks Guys, they had been working well enough and now I have stripped them and checked diaphragms and float heights, checked that there were no dreaded rubber slivers and so on, I will refit them and see how I get on.

Have been running the Sixfire with this pair of Strombergs until it started playing up recently. Having removed and stripped them I suddenly became aware that they have different float chamber blanking plugs in that the front one has what appears to be an adjustable jet. This can't be right can it? The bodies of the carbs are the same albeit that the front one has the choke mechanism. Can anyone advise if I have a mongrel pair or is this as they should be?

The promised photo: