Stratton Jimmer

Welcome to the madhouse! I'm just down the road on the east side of Swindon. If you fancy showing your car, some of us in the North Wilts branch will be exhibiting at the Swindon And Cricklade Railway's event which is listed in the events forum. Be good to see you there as it's only thirty miles from Didcot..

The needle valves should stop any fuel flow regardless of if it is pumped or gravity fed like when you go down a steep hill. This smacks of Uncle Pete's favourite little black slivers of rubber. Whip the float chambers off and check for contamination. If there is any then change your rubber fuel lines for new e.g. the Gates Barricade brand sold by the club shop. My Sixfire suffered from fuel weeing out of the carbs until I changed the fuel lines and fitted a glass chamber fuel filter between pump and carbs.

Let's call that a 5mm! It actually varies between 5.06 and 5.18 depending where you measure it.

Whenever I have refilled my systems from empty I have always half filled the system then started the engine with the radiator cap off. I then add coolant slowly and steadily. The heater is always set to hot. I have seen the rad apparently full but then bubbles appear and the level drops. Top up and go again. Once the thermometer is showing around 70 degrees, I stop the engine, fit the radiator cap and run it again until it is at full temp (circa 90 degrees in my GT6). I then let it cool down, remove the cap and top up once more which rarely takes more than about 20cc. Touch wood but I have never had any overheating issues. Note that myGT6 has both its original belt driven fan and an electrical driven fan in front of the rad. The electric fan is manually switched and is rarely used. My Sixfire has only a Kenlowe thermostatically controlled fan and is also free of any overheating. Both cars are using Evans waterless coolant.

Free to enter and that gets your car(s) plus two people in for either one or both days. Some of us from North Wilts Branch will be exhibiting. Additional tickets are available for exhibitors at £5 per additional person. Swindon & Cricklade Railway CALLING ALL CLASSIC VEHICLE CLUBS/OWNERS! Showcase your pride and joy at our Family Festival this August! We're still taking applications for exhibitors! Use the link below to apply or visit our website for a printable form. https://form.jotform.com/screv.../exhibitor-application-form

I too like the yellow plates and have them on my Sixfire. The PO had fitted B&W which now adorn my bike garage door. The car started life as an R reg 1500 but was adapted to a six by Yorkshire Triumphs in the early 2000s.

My Mk3 has 165/70 front and 175/70 rear. The handling seems fine to me although my aim is to standardise on 165/70 all round. I run 25psi in every tyre.

I too could be tempted by that. Smashing looking car. Welcome to the forum and heed the advice to go for something driveable rather than something showable.

Danny B is quite correct, it is the Kenlowe thermostat adjuster.

There wasn't any problem with clearances but the two struts were too strong and were forcing the bonnet back against the scuttle. It is slightly unbalanced now but certainly no worse than my GT6 which has just its original support.

My Sixfire had two gas struts but I have since removed the offside one. Both were attached adjacent to the bonnet hinges as shown in this photograph.

I have CDD CV shafts on my Mk3 GT6. I purchased them directly from CDD. They have so far proven to be very good and were simple enough to fit. I took that opportunity to fit polyurethane bushes all round too.

A cracked (barely visible crack unless viewed with a magnifying glass) rotor arm gave me the same symptoms on my GT6.

Some good friends of mine work as volunteers on the Dean Forest Railway. They are a very friendly bunch all round and it is an excellent heritage line.

Quite right Josef, my old Mk1 - 1967 and my current Mk3 1971 were both negative earth.

I had the same problem with the front SU HS6 on my Sixfire. Initially, I padded out the pump with extra gasket adding about 3mm of spacing. Ultimately it was Pete Lewis's favourite "black slivers" of rubber that was causing the problem. Changing all of the fuel line rubber for Gates Barricade (available from the club shop and other sources) resolved the problem completely and the extra gasket is now removed. Since then, I have switched to a pair of Stromberg 150s and back to the SUs for comparison. The Strombergs are superior in every respect!

My Mk3 has a Triumph Tune engine but has been fitted with a pair of HS4 SU carbs. First start of any day involves around five or six, three second bursts on the starter and full choke. Thereafter it starts first time every time without the choke.

Do you have any Bradex? If not, I suggest you go buy a can, give each carb a couple of seconds burst and then see if it will fire up. If it does, then your problem is in the fuel / carb area. If you have had E5 or E10 fuel in the tank, it will probably have degraded over the winter and may not be too combustable.

We did Shildon a few years ago and were rather disappointed with it. The displays were very sterile with little or no interaction allowed with the stock. A whole line of stuff was fenced off for no apparent reason and we couldn't even see what was down there. The staff were unhelpful too. York on the other hand was rather good.

My GT6 has a similar intermittent problem in that it can be opened from within but not from without. If it doesn't open from outside, inserting the key and "unlocking" again solves the problem. I have yet to remove the door card to investigate.

It sure was Graham. It was only you and I that were brave enough to take our cars there. I was lucky though in that mine stayed dry inside.

After a horrendous journey last night through torrential rain, I have decided that the inadequate wipers on the Spit need to be replaced. Can anyone recommend a seriously good pair of wipers and arms please?

Richard Symonds has a 2.5 Estate for sale. It is in much need of restoration - not for the faint hearted! His number is 01793 874787 if anyone is feeling really foolhardy!

Size isn't everything!

I have often cut back cables by two or three inches, stripped them back, made up a new two or three inch section of new cable with the appropriate connector already on one end then soldered the two together. With the correct colour heat shrink over the joint they look good and I have never had one fail subsequently.