KevinR

I'm preparing a list of new categories that I will circulate for discussion with the other moderators and admin in the next few days. Expect to see a few additions arriving soon. Initial thoughts are Forum announcments (for the Admin and Moderators to post announcements etc) Insurance (to discuss issues associated with insuring your cars) Stolen vehicle reports (to post reports of stolen Triumphs) Wanted (requests for parts WANTED - absolutely no selling) Free to a good home (advertising parts to be given away absolutely free) Lounge Bar (general discussion not necessarilly Triumph) Forum Improvements (suggestions for improvements and new categories)

The picture resizer function for XP was part of the "Power Toys" for XP, something that normally had to be separately downloaded from Microsoft. When they introduced Vista (and then Windows 7, 8, 8.1 etc) it stopped working and one had to use a 3rd party add-on to get the equivalent functionality. For Windows 7, this http://imageresizer.codeplex.com/ is a good alternative to the XP image resizer, and it works in a similar manner. I've got no idea whether it works with Windows 8/8.1 or not.

The main club website and the new club Forum have deliberately been kept separate, requiring separate login's. The Login to the main club website is to enable you to obtain members prices from the shop, and to view the contact details etc of the Area Organisers and the local area events. Signing up for this login is available only for paid up Club members, and is validated against the Club membership database. The login for the new club Forum is available for anyone - member or non member - just like several other Triumph club fora. The new club Forum is hosted on the computers of Invison Power, a leading provider of forums. The IP board software includes significant protection to try and prevent spammers from registering, and so far it has prevented a significant number of registrations using email addresses and IP addresses held in the central Invision Power spammer database - this automatic pre-screening of registrations has helped significantly with admin and moderator workload. So far, only one spammer has managed to evade these behind the scenes checks, and his account was blocked as soon as he started spamming. He is now included in the central database, so should never bother us again. One or two members have somehow managed to trigger this protection during their registration for the new forum. As soon as we spot that there are legitimate users who have been blocked by the spammer trap, we unlock the account and validate their membership. If anyone trying to register for the forum finds that they have been blocked in this manner, then please contact one of the team of moderators via the Club HQ.

John, The car is looking good. I've just edited your post to replace the thumbnail with a larger format image from the "direct link" popup in the gallery. Are those home made wheel skates, they look sturdier than the normal ones available.

Guys, Why is it that everyone seems to have trouble loading pictures. The process is very easy and has been explained elsewhere how to do it using the "image" button. The forum software has a feature that limits the TOTAL size of images that can be posted as attachments, but by using the techniques explained elsewhere, an unlimited number of photos can be referenced in a posting, so long as they are stored in your gallery. The software that runs behind the scenes is new to all of us, and we have to learn how to do certain things. As moderators we do not have a magic wand to change things - all we are able to do is edit, delete and merge postings, make edits to your profiles, and if ultimately required delete a user. The admin has more rights to change things, but he is on an even steeper learning curve than us, so please lets not overload him with requests for feature changes until things have settled down and we have found our feet. Posting a photo to your gallery is easy, as is linking it into a posting, and the galley component of the website has no size limit on the photos being posted, and it allows you to select a size to link into a posting, its really very powerfull and suprisingly easy to get used to.

Cars wih disc brakes should use a master cylinder with a large fluid resevoir. When the Herald first came out it had drum brakes all round, and the brake master cylinder had the same sized fluid resevoir as the clutch. When they upgraded to disc brakes they added a height extension to the resevoir to give the extra capacity. Eventually this translated into the larger diameter resevoir common on most/all other models. Master cylinders with large (or small) fluid resevoiirs are available with different bore diameters - Externally they look identical, It's impossible to tell the diameter of the cylinder bore without a full strip down of the cylinder.

And there is still at least one GT6 that hasn't yet come of the production line

Having seen some of his other auctions I do not think it is someone who is deliberately taking the mickey, I believe that he is genuinely as mad as a box of frogs.

The "mechanical" voltage stabiliser is designed to give an AVERAGE of 10V. It does this by switching between full battery voltage and zero. Because the gauges are very slow to react, you see a steady reading, and not one jumping around. When you put a DVM on it, you see the voltage jumping around because the DVM reacts so quickly.

Most Triumph Fuel and Temperature gauges require a 10V feed. Some early Herald gauges are fed straight from the battery, but they also require a different temperature sender. Dont forget, it's the water temperature you want to measure, which should stabilise at around 90 ish degrees. Bits of the engine can and do get hotter.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/triumph-convertible-sportscar-for-spares-or-repair-/221530398319?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Model%3AVitesse+Cabriolet&hash=item33943d9e6f#ht_25015wt_1190 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/triumph-convertible-sportscar-for-spares-or-repair/221540203642?_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D25291%26meid%3D4c884f8ce21c46c09c032255157687cf%26pid%3D100011%26prg%3D10621%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D10%26sd%3D221530398319#ht_23259wt_1400

Wooo hoooo, Raymanboy/Chelseadollshouseantiques/ or what ever else he is calling himself today is back again with his Vitesse. How many years has he been trying to sell it. Dont hold your breath trying to read the rubish he writes about it. Just like old times.

It got relisted - I guess that when the winner went to collect it they realised that the description of condition was rather too generous.

The pipe diameters vary according to the manufacturer, so for a definitive answer you would need to know a part number aand manufacturer for the box.

Looks like Pete has just discovered the next threshold. After 30 posts you become an "Advanced Member". At this rate of progression, what will he be when he reaches the 10,000 posts he almost got on the old message board.

Pete, You lightweight - I managed to get in and out of the Pilots seat - twice ! It was a bit of a squeze getting in, but well worth it. Getting out was easier.

You can fit what you want, its your car. Temperature gauges are notoriously inaccurate, there is a wide variation in the accuracy of the temp sender itself, as well as the gauge. The only thing you can rely on is the "normal" reading for any given combination of gauge, voltage regulator and temp sender - it will always be the roughly the same. Change any component and you have to find the new "normal" If you are worried about the engine temperature, then get an IR thermometer and mearure the actual temperature of the radiator or engine block. http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/infrared-thermometer-with-laser-targeting-n92fx

You can get thermostat covers that have a tapping in them to take a temperature sensor, keep an eye on Ebay. Alternatively, you can fit a waterpump housing from a later car that has the temperature sensor tapping in the housing.

As Mishmosh says, most people just run on unleaded and fix the problem when (if) it occurs. If the car has run tens of thousands of miles on leaded fuel and is then switched to unleaded, then the lead memory should prevent a problem for many 10's of thousands of miles. If however the head has been recently fettled and the valve seats recut or simply ground back in, without fitting hardened seats, then the lead memory has been lost, so valve seat recession may become a problem quite quickly. If you decide to just take a chance, then monitor the valve clearances regularly, and if they start to close up significantly then you need to look at getting the head converted. If the clearances remain OK, then no action needed.

Please try, and let us all know how its done. I've managed to put a photo in a posting using a tablet, but I've been unable to embed a picture that is hosted elsewhere (yet)

John, its taken a lot of effort to get the TSSC COM to get the message board going. Its a learning experience for all of us, and there are foibles to overcome. The TR Register has a 1.9MB limit on forum image posting, so not even four times what we have. The 500kB limit is an out of the box limit, and will need to be addressed in the future. Posting photos in line from an external hosting site, including your gallery, is explained above in this thread, its the same technique for most other forums, including CT and TR Register, and works well from a PC. I'm still working on how to post photos from a tablet, its not quite as easy. Whilst we are all learning how to get the best from the forum, please keep criticism constructive.

I'm not convinced that the "Tilting Lift" is safe, or OK to use on a small chassis triumph. If I was in the market for a lift then first preference would be a four post lift, followed by one of the scissor lifts like this one http://www.automotechservices.co.uk/products/as-5500-2-5-tonne-scissor-lift/

Waxoyl works just as well on the inside of the chassis as it does on the outside. You need to find some holes where you can insert the long spray wand and then pump / spray some very warm / hot wayoyl in as you slowly pull the wand out so that the entire length is coated. You may find that you need to drill some access holes - if you do, fill them with gromets afterwards. One hole at the front or rear of each chassis member, and a 12ft ling spray wand should do the trick

Beware of Ebay "bargains". Often, they are anything but a bargain. Lots of the 4 post lifts on ebay are worn out and need lots of expensive new parts to make them serviceable again. They have usually being disposed of from garages, having been condemmed by the Insurance Inspector. It's usually cheaper for the garage to buy new than repair to the standard necessay to meet the inspection requirements. You wouldnt want one collapsing on you would you ?