thescrapman
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Posts posted by thescrapman
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Couple of options, a Luminition one or a Pertronix, or one of the lower cost Accuspark type.
Former are a lot more expensive, but seem a lot more reliable.
Always carry a spare if you fit the cheaper one.
I have been lucky in that my cheapo ones have only failed due to poor fitting.
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Lots of modern radios are coded to the ECU so will always work if put into the original car, but won't work in any other car.
I think.
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Quill shaft extension should be dry. All oil needs to be in the diff, no where else.
the metal rang with the number needs to come out I am absolutely sure
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Gotta love the frictionless border eh?
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Might be best to leave replacementnfor a few months or not bother, MOT guy may not notice, as they will know where to find what they think will be a brand new one in a couple of days.
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That act is absolutely useless, scrapyards are still full of nicked scrap metal, Police and others will do nothing about it.
At least at work we get the odd member of the local itinerant population every now and then, turning the power back on whilst they are nicking it usually does the trick.. 🙂
Cordless angle grinders have been a boon for metal thieves, perhaps tithe sale of them should be made illegal.
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There is a suitable sized bulb and holder for the heater control illumination somewhere on either the Spitfire or more likely a 2000, as I have salvaged a couple from old looms for other people.
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Autocorrect got to it, most now-a-days have sunk or been lowered.
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That the tyres are original is only relevant if you intend to use it on the road.
That car is destined for a museum or another private collection probably.
The ride height is correct for a Dolomite, just must have sunk or been lowered I reckon.
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There's was a dealer that put lots of cars away that did not sell, or were returned very early in their life. HadHeralds with couple of thousand on the clock, that sort of thing.
Wonder if it is the same source?
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The "tuned" Vitesse owners story Is very interesting. Full of intrigue.
Anyway, Tony can talk for England, and Just about everywhere else!
His timescales can be very flexible as that is just him, and the way he works.
I purchased a top notch GT6 gearbox from him last year at a very good price, the price has gone up quite a bit since then mind.
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Stag brakes direct fit under the bigger wheels, nothing else to change
only issue Is price of a set of calipers, offset by the much cheaper discs.
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Superfelex bushes are usually yellow.
Anyone can of course buy a pot of yellow polyurethane and make bushes, and some do, and they don't last long.
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I have 1500 centre sections at home that are 2 different diameters, and only fit their respective rear boxes.
I think the aftermarket makers just made what's was easiest.
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Look for a 2 pack floor paint and primer and paint the new floor before anything touches it.
you many struggle to get existing floor clean enough to paint.
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Laurence
TR6 boots are only really accommodating of they original steel wheels, lots of the aftermarket wheels need you to either discard the board that goes over the wheel, or put it in blocks of wood (what has been done to mine)
A standard steel wheel should be easy to get hold of, as lots of people go for alloy wheels, or bling wire wheels.
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19 hours ago, johny said:
You mean you put in a new filter and oil then start the engine and no pressure shows? It does take a few nerve racking seconds to fill the filter and system but can't think of any explanation why the pump would prime by hand and not on starter....
Few nerve wrecking seconds, more like 2 minutes and I bottled out. That is why the ends now rattle and theoils pressure dips alarmingly when hot.
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On 25/10/2019 at 12:37, JohnD said:
Unless you are an F1 trained technician, used to four wheel tyre changes in less than two seconds, with at least one assistant, there is plenty of time while you reassemble the dizzie and fit it, for all that oil to fall back into the sump. I prefer to turn the whole engine over on the starter, no plugs in so minimal stress, whip the plugs back on and go for a start.
It helps if you use a running modern with jump leads connected, so plenty of juice for the whole procedure.
John
Tried that John, flattened 3 fully charged batteries and had it jumped off a running car, plugs out, still would not pressurise.
oil pumped back in the pressure switch hole, fully brimmed new filter. Everything I could think of.
couple of minutes wit the drill sorts it.
there is definitely something wrong with the pump, just need to get the engine out to see what.
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Past Parts in Bury st Edmunds.
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Pete, I have been doing it because my TR6 oil pump will not self prime after a filter change.No idea why, but the engine coming out to investigate is much closer after my attempts due to the damage I have done prior to realising there is a problem.
once the pressure comes up for the first time never a problem until the next oil change.
As for rebuilt engines, I am with Mr Gadgetman, I would do it just to make sure the pump works.
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Fully charged 18v Makita in reverse and it slows almost to a stop as the pressure suddenly builds up.
I use a salvaged PI dissy drive shaft as it is obviously designed to engage on the oil pump
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On 21/10/2019 at 09:28, Pete Lewis said:
so how did the quill extention come out of the sub frame its locked in by the frame flanges which is where the idea of dropping the whole frame comes from
when you have the removable rear support its a straight on off,, on all except on a mk2 saloon with the wheel well and cast fixed rear end
done that on mine its yes a bit of a fight . always use the leather seal its more compliant to misjudged alignments
pete
Take the wheels off, undo the 3 flanges, and thenthe 4 long bolts.undo the rear mount nuts.
lever the 2 subframes down and the extension will drop out.
to refit push one side in first and then lever subframes down and push diff into place
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There are plenty of classic resto guys out there, but they are booked solid far ahead if they are good. and they can just concentrate on big money stuff like Jags etc to make a living, none would make a living from Triumphs unless they are some TR's.
But they can charge good money as their numbers are dropping and not being replaced.
Lots of the Triumph specialists sub contract out the body work to smaller companies and do the mechanics themselves I think.
I know of a welder who is about £10 an hour, but the waiting list is very long, and you have to wait for an opportunity to get considered for the waiting list let alone get the work done.
I have a tame bodywork guy that fits my budget, but I tend to be rescuing basket cases and get them Road-worthy rather than top notch.
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I have changed the diff seal on a couple of cars leaving the nose extension in place, they have started leaking again soon afterwards.
i think it is down to the wiggling trying to get the diff back in place damages the seal.
it only takes an extra 5 mins to take the whole diff Assembly out with the extension attached and that way it can be more easily worked on and the extension can be carefully fitted on the bench.
Electronic ignition
in Electrical System
Posted
There Is a a multi pronged Bosch that is much Better than the NGK, proving very difficult to foul in my PI cars.
about £1.50 each I think.