thescrapman
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Posts posted by thescrapman
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There are a number of members round Cambs that know big saloons.
Get yourself along to meet, or head East to the Suffolk meet.
With the team Torpedo sticker I wonder if it has been round Europe full of Americans.
If so the mechanics should still be good.
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I use Bilt-Hamber wax in Spray cans. Brown or clear.
Seems to bomexactly what it says on the tin
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Sent you an email of info from factory manual for 1500 Toledo, my library doesn't go as new as the Spitfire
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Differences between TC and S are not too much, and if it is bodily good, that far outweighs everything else!
big Saloons ( and Estates) hide rot incredibly well, and by the time it I see really noticeable it may well be too late.
I would be straight off to look at that TC if I wanted one.
Fit a rev counter, a set of alloys and you almost have an S.
May need a cam or compression upgrade, some had same engine as the S.
cheers
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If you are interested in more info on the one near me, send me an email and I will send you his contact details.
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Not advertised anywhere yet. Belongs to the guy who services my "modern". Is in Colchester.
H fancies a 2000 as a replacement.
I wonder if that Valencia car is better than it looks in photos, does not seem to have been tarted up for sale.
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Now relisted.
looks a fairly original car to me, price not too far out, but needs a good look.
seems I am alone in that...
I know of a better one locally to me ( but not Cornwall!) that is about £4K
slightly later Mk4.
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best bet for a 2.5 is to make a plate that bolts to the drivers side engine mount casting (obviously not used on a big saloon)
i cut one from an old backplate that had got bent after being used a few times to mount them longways.
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There is a 4.875 diff available, but I would not expect it to last behind a 2 litre.
Something sounds fishy about the restoration,, I wonder if they just dropped the 6-cyl into a 948 Herald. Especially as you say it now has Herald brakes, hopefully not drums at the frnot.
If you have a friendly local garage they may plug it into their MOT exhaust tester as that will have a RPM readout that ought to be pretty accurate.
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In years gone by the great unwashed didn't always get a look in as the club members booked the full site out.
It is very popular.
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Best solution is to get a relative to get a job at LIDL, they can intercept the tools before they hit the shelves, and they get staff discount.
🙂
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Hopefully James can add the missing gearboxes back in and also the diff ratio option.
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Spare parts book should reveal any changeover points
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Foot dip switch is CP car, dip on stalks is CR.
CP has an ammeter, CRa voltmeter.
I reckon your car is Late CP and you have a early CR handbook.
my 73 CR has no hazards either.
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The engine number is wrong I believe.
CR denotes a big saloon Mk1 PI engine when that low, nor should it have a preceding zero possibly
A CR TR would be CR5xxxx I think.
Mk1 PI block is early non-recessed and a different casting, easily spotted, and one of the best engines as made to a better quality before the bean counters got hold.
dont think the chassis number should havepreceeding zero either. Didn't when up near CR950 area.
All CR TR6 are j-type gearbox
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Not as bad as it looks.
the accident damage is a nuisance, not sure if Mk3 bonnets are available, may need to graft bulge into a new Spitfire bonnet.
Front of roof a tricky fix. Sills are easy, though panel quality is poor now a days.
forget all the mechanicals to start with, the body is where the expense is. If you know the engine is broken, look for a good spare,
report back on chassis.
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Mechanical throttle linkage.
try new engine andgearbox mounts then convert to a mk4 pedal and cable setup.
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I had a Spitfire with a Semi-Sports transverse box. IT WAS BLOODY LOUD!!!!!!!!!
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That looks a good fit compared to many.
bangung under seats may be exhaust on propshaft though a 1500 should just be a plain pipe there so lots of clearance. Perhaps exhaust in chassis, look for witness marks.
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Noise froM back is probably a UJ or maybe a wheel bearing
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If the wipers are slow, pull the rack and thoroughly clean and regrease. Also rotate wiper spindles 180 degrees and put rack back in other way round, that way you get unworn teeth meshing (assuming it has not been done before.
for a proper job you need to remove and clean spindles, much more time- consuming.
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I think Mk1 PI and by association TR5 blocks have bulges but no ribs.
cant check my PI block as it is off being rebored.at the moment.
So late 67 and early 68, so similar era to the early Mk2 GT6
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You say you have bought a 1965 Herald 13/60, but they didn't make the 13/60 until. Few years later.
That may be your issue with the DVLA as you have been given the wrong registration number I reckon
You may be better going for a new registration number.
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No, they use an input shaft that is twice the diameter, so the bearing is bigger and thus pushes further out on the diaphragm fingers.
Spitfire Mk3 Hardtop Front Seal Questions
in Bodywork & Fittings
Posted
That seal does not look quite the same as the one that came with my hardtop equipped Spitfire