thescrapman
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Posts posted by thescrapman
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Don't forget that Shell V-Power you buy in one part of the country may be totally different to other parts of the country, all depends on which refinery it came out of.
And it is definitely different to the same product on mainland Europe.
A web search will tell you which refinery serves your part of the country. All suppliers get their fuel from Shell Haven or.Coryton in the Southeast, then add their own additives.
Tesco Momentum is 99 round here and comes from Greenergy. it gets its octane from bio ethanol I think
Best I have ever found is Aral 101 in Germany. Proper rocket fuel. Car just sounded different. Tweaked the timing to suit in both a TR4 and a PI saloon.,
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I purchased a very large oil syringe from Machines Mart I think it was. Long tube and it gets oil in the diff no problem.
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Just to throw something extra in the ring.
You could run the gearbox on 20/50 engine oil. Some people do, without issue, Andy it was standard spec in MGB ISTR.
Fine for OD as well.
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When you can buy the Pennine 20/50 from the club shop at the special offer price regularly, I have seen no reason to look elsewhere, as it is only a couple of quid more stuff like the Wilco reclaimed stuff, and the spec is very good.
Millers Classic Sport and Valvoline VR1 have also been very good.
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I always fancied one of theMonza systems, VERY loud apparently. Seem to be US only so I have been saved from myself so far.
I wonder if I could get one over in a suitcase?
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It may well Darken down a bit whe you start to put varnish back on the wheel.
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Bottom row LH end is used to hold cable to metering unit on a PI car, must have another use I assume
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The standard Bell twin box system has boxes that are too smal IMO.
the Phoenix ones are 50% larger at least.
I had a Bell system on an old Mk2 Spitfire that I dragged back from the dead, every single part of it was shagged apart from the nice new exhaust. The previous owner was both ripped off and had their priorities wrong.
It was great fun ragging it round the lanes listening to the ends hammering their way out of the crankcase when the exhaust wasn't "ringing", scaring the wildlife and setting off car alarms.
But waaay too loud for a long journey.
Fit a centre box and all is sweetness and light, well kinda!
The issue that makes the GT6 worse is the exhaust resonates in the rear of the cabin.
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A Bell system and at GT6 do not really go together, unless you enjoy bleeding eardrums. A centre box is essential.
The single pipe Phoenix system is not bad, quite a few people have them and they don't seem too loud.
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Yes
it is knackered, and yes you need the correct puller.
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John, treat yourself to some of the Pennine 20/50 that the club sells, especially if you catch it when on special offer.
It has been good for me recently.
I also use Millers CSS20/50 and Valvoline VR1.
the VR1 consistently gave 10PSI less at 3000rpm, and that was seen by multiple other people as well, but never faltered however hot the engine.
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I have used NGK BP5ES for many years, but I did find the 6's fouled on the PI cars sometimes.
Had one PI that would oil and or soot up the 5's so I have tried some 3-prong Bosch ones recommended by Nick Jones. They seem fairly immune to the PI cars.
I have always managed to recover the fouled NGK by wire brushing and cleaning off with thinners.
then cook the end over a gas ring.
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As this is the first time it has played up it is almost certainly not the main gearbox, but bits attached to it.
A second opinion is a good idea before you do anything costly.
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My local MOT guy is certainly Triumph Friendly, probably all BL friendly as he served his apprenticeship in the London cal Austin Rover dealership.
I am impressed by the NI system, though I would want a "Classic Lane"
🙂
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At this moment in time, only 1 of my cars has a valid MOT and it was the only one that didn't deserve one. It had to be one of the dodgiest MOT I have ever encountered, and was only 3 weeks old when I got the car.
It was physically impossible for the rear brakes to have been working at the time of the MOT, and the handbrake was also totally inoperative. The outer headlights were both faulty (something wrong with the halogen replacement units, they did not have any discernible light pattern)., worn out suspension bushes, removable jacking points (rusted away round the outside) and numerous other minor things
I went over the car with a fine toothed comb but someone else could have just driven it round as it had an MOT oblivious to it being possibly lethal.
So having an MOT isn't everything.
Nearly all the issues now sorted ready for a more legitimate MOT later this year by the way.
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One of My detective network has come across the Herald. I has been written off and is up for sale for dismantling I think he said.
Sold for £350. We are keeping track on it.
I have got a few more pictures of it, I will try and get them posted.
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Just exercise the hazard switch in and out, they are notorious for poor contacts.
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No not really worth that much.
I seem to remember all the parts off that car have been very expensive.
you can clearly see the type 16 caliper mounts in the listing photos
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9 hours ago, Badwolf said:
Please forgive my ignorance on this one, but when you click 'mot exempt' are you not self certifying that the vehicle is road worthy. I'm sure that I read this somewhere but not sure.
I think you are declaring that the vehicle meets the requirements for MOT exemption, so not modified and over 40 years old.
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Very last GT6 had the J type I think, Same as last few Mk4 Spitfire got them.
there are 2 different rear flanges available, 1 an inch longer. Also 2 different size OD to gearbox plates, again an inch longer.
i think you got the longer rear flange if you got the shorter adaptor on an 1850, but if you fit the short flange to the short adaptor the normal OD prop will fit. Certainly did on my Spitfire.
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If you had said an inch longer, I would have said you have the long rear flange on a J-type or a single rail box from an 1850
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I don't recognise the car, but was probably out and about on the Ipswich to Felixstowe run.
I too have noticed that lots of other road users assume an old car is a slow car, Perhaps the lack of older cars on the road means people are either forgetting, or just not encountering any to learn.
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Remove the spring assy, you can then easily move the suspension through its entire range to see where it may get touch
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Normally it is a small L-shaped bracket spot welded to the backplate with a hole for the return spring to hook into. And the hole wears through, so a washer is welded on to restore the hole.
I have not seen the hose one come off, probably needs welding to avoid interfering with brake shoes
Vitesse side lights
in Bodywork & Fittings
Posted
Don't forget o add VAT to that.
I have been looking further same, one MG trader is doing one side for about nineteen but the other side at twenty six I think.