thescrapman
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Posts posted by thescrapman
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17 hours ago, Paul Marshall said:
Any suggestions as to which I should chose? I am not a spanner man myself but I have a highly skilled pal who will fit it.
On the cutch, is it possible to lighten the spring
Thanks
Paul
A small chassis car clutch should not be heavy, A TR clutch, yes very heavy.
check you have right master and slave and then ask someone who knows the cars I it is OK.
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I had seen a few cases were the internal tank treatment has started to come off and the continual blockages make the tank a write off.
fill the tank with loads of nuts and bolts and shake it about, or even better strap it to a cement mixer.
Tape the filler up!
you could then fill the tank with an acid solution to clean any remaining rust out.
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That Ebay one is conveniently local!
very good price at the moment.
Even double that would be a bargain I reckon
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Steve
One advantage of the non-standard exhaust not mention is that it does away with the poorly designed joint between the manifold and front pipe.
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What Kevin didn't mention is that there is a restriction in the oil gallery caused by the distributor drive.
Best place to fit an oil pressure gauge is the plug nearest the front of the engine, gives a woerst case reading
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The Rimmer sports silencers look very similar to Bell ones.
But they seem to also include a centre silencer in the twin box systems.
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TR don't have rain gutters, nor did early Spitfire.
TR ones cost ar least twice the price secondhand
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If the hole for the tyre valve is oval they are stag ones, which also fit Mk2 PI saloon.
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There are only 2 possible manufacturers, one is Pilkington.
I know a few years ago you could buy Spitfire screens for about £20 each if you bought a crate of 10 from the manufacturer.
So that gives a clue as to what the supplier pay..
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The old Workmates with the Aloy frames are very strong, take a 4-cyl very easily.
Not sure about the modern ones.
I wouldn't trust my £10 super cheap ones with a gearbox let alone an engine.
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Are you looking for an original one as the shape of the current replacements is wrong?
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You would be far better off visiting the meets before it is up and running, that way you will get the assistance tio get it up and running and hopefully not make any mistakes on the way.
Going to meets in Triumphs is definitely not compulsory!
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Worth a lot in parts, but I reckoned n it is not as badly corroded as the seller makes out.
no major rot visible in tub. Chassis could be bad but easilybswapped for a better one.
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Is there a reason why you were looking for 5J wheels. Most people want 5.5J.
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If you have a 2000 a bit of the rear woodwork is tight up against the seat so the coating isn't usually preserved in reasonably good condition.
it is certainly a right pig to remove that bit of varnish as it always seems stuck like shit to a shovel
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Well I quite enjoyed it, but then I am not normal apparently,
Did anyone else spot that the Spitty appeared to be a ringer?
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It doesn't need to be the pattern sills, the decent ones are the wrong shape as well now.
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Was it built on a newly written off Herald back in 1970?
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What is that giving you in first? About 55?
I guess you are tinkerating ready for a hill climb
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Steve
Set the 123 to TDC and introduce any advance via the mapping.. Easy to get it back to a known point in the future.
put a basic copy of the 1500 curve into the 123 for running in.
then get out of the road with someone with good hearing and get them to adjust the mapping on the fly.
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1300 fwd clutch is unique as far as I know. So that is where the rumours come from I suspect
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I was going to say it looked OK, but perhaps the sills were a bit frilly.
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Looks good to me
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If everything else is a plus, thendont discount it, swapping back to a 2 litre isn't too difficult,
Dealing with rusty panels - Surface processing
in Bodywork & Fittings
Posted
You could make up a bath of citric acid or better phosphoric acid ( milk stone remover) and then etch primevafterwards.