Rabbit

To cold to go to garage to check torques but 85!, that's got to nearly double what they should be? As said, do them to 45 plus replace all other head nuts.

WHOOPS, obviously should read 76!

Can anyone enlighten me as to removing the existing LW/MW radio from my 96 Triumph 1500 TC. I want to replace it with a more modern CD player. Joking apart it appears to be welded in! Help appreciated.

I have just purchased a 1976 Triumph 1500TC. It has no rear seat belts, not even lap belts. What is the position regarding rear belts. No problem in buying some but just wondered if my car is actually illegal as regards the MoT test?

SORRY, yes 5/16, a typographical error on my part! Sorry.

Some of these brackets do have, unfortunately, either stove enamelling down the threads or occasionally some weld offshoots (?), I ran a second tap and bottoming tap down all of them but wondered if you had an early one that had not been cleaned out? It is though 1/4 x 24 UNF thread as Pete stated, not metric at all.

Interesting! My 68 Spitfire MkIII handbrake cable would appear to be too long as the lever comes up too far. I have adjusted all to a maximum and still comes up what I consider excessive. Does anyone know the correct length that it should be as I think I may have to remove it. All replies appreciated.

This months Courier page 6, Events (first advert) then on page 71 (third of a page). What's a pay grade?

Just a thought, change the nipple, it could be seized.

Definitely need new pipe. The spring is non standard and is put in to stop pipe kinking. Probably been rotting away for years. Just needs normal replacement pipe, no spring.

Castrol EP90 GL4 £9 litre, Pennine E80/90 GL4 £4 litre. BOTH available at Club shop. Castrol engine oil 5 litres £27.50, Penine Heritage 20/50 5 litres £14.00. I apologise for my mistake In mentioning Millers but Shop does supply 2 differential/gearbox oils!

Look forward to seeing you at HQ. We have 2 oils, Millers and Castrol. You takes your choice!

Nice one Colin, graphite powder, now to try to actually find a hardware shop! Come to that, a pencil, do most people actually know what a pencil is! Have a good XMAS all.

I believe there was a complete boot floor assembly n EBay this week. Probably worth a look?

I may have read the above wrong but why would you be using R9 rubber tubing on BRAKES! Surely you mean braided brake hose? It's a tad worrying! As I said I hope I read it wrong.

Sorry, I should have said that the hood is not actually on the frame, it is just that the frame sits proud of the rear deck and it has been so long off the car that I cannot remember whether it should sit as high as this! The offside goes down further than the nearside and this would point to possible a bent frame but I cannot see any difference between the 2 sides! Thanks for the comments.

First ever on here! Just finished rebuild and after cleaning up hood frame for some reason the hood frame just will not sit down at rear deck, it is about 1-1/4 inches above deck. It will, if pushed, go down but then pops up again on release. Is this right? I cannot se any way to adjust this, even releasing the three bolts. The frame sits tight on the inner wheel arches. Will hopefully be able to see one at SEM but if anyone knows what is wrong I would appreciate it.

Now that is what I call a good buy and sell profit!

I agree with Simon. I have bought expensive(ish) ones and they have blown up. So I tried Lidle ones at £20 with 3 year warranty and variable speed. Bought 3 about 4 years ago and still have 2 in boxes and the third working well still. You pays your money etc etc. Have seen them at £238 and didn't seem any better than my cheap ones. Also, if my Lidle one plays up I could take it back or just bin it. Hand tools I buy Facom usually as they seem good quality and have never let me down but got to say that Parkside tools from Lidle seem to be OK, probably not for workshop use but for mu use, OK.

I would use nylocks and plain washers on suspension parts etc. Nuts and spring washers cannot be tightened (I think) to a specified torque. Interesting one this as no doubt those more expert than myself will quote otherwise but then I have never had anything fall off or come unscrewed etc using nylocks. Obviously you are right in not using where heat is involved. Even if not torqueing up, nylocks and plain washers can be done up more firmly.

I am amazed, the CLUB has these falling out the doors as have 90% of any decent motor factors. Just ring Garth and it will be in the post quicker than quick. Oh yes, 01858 434424 extension no. 2.

Surely not an extra £4000 plus!!!! Even for 2 cars unless of course you are below say, 25? Even then that would be expensive. Search around, ring TSSC? My classic (?) 1989 MR2 Mk1 is only £83 and my 13/60 conv: £82. Someone has got their fingers on the wrong buttons I would suggest.

I don't come on here very often but must offer my thanks for the work these stalwarts put in. Hours sent at the office on paperwork etc etc and that's just what I saw. They will be missed greatly. Once again Pip and Frank, thanks. John.

Colin, I would recommend you first try these reversing audible thingees on the bench, I purchased some for my Passat and Spitfire, put them in the Passat and you could not hear them in the car with diesel engine off, let alone hear them outside. I returned them to an address in Ireland and, no bother, money refunded but no comment on my complaint. I think it would be better to spend more than £2ish and be satisfied.

A wire brushing! No way! The threads are corroded and the brass trunnion would rock about like a ship in a storm. Only one thing that link and the rear one is good for and that's for weighing in AFTER the threads have been cut off to prevent some unfortunate person buying it and fitting it.