dougbgt6

And another thing! Olden times bulb holders were single wire and the body of the holder was earth, reaching earth through the metal work of the container. Modern bulb holders are two wire, requiring both live and earth connections. If you ever have to replace an old one you'll have to run an additional wire to earth.

For those on the edge of their seats wondering what happened with my servo lock on problem: After replacing, master cylinder rubbers, brake shoe springs, flexible brake hoses and borrowing another master cylinder, it was just the same. I put the old master cylinder back on, tried the servo on all 4 wheels, no difference, put it back on front two. Reluctantly decided it must be the brand new servo. Having sawed the mounting bolts down to squeeze it in the space on the bulkhead I thought I would have a problem returning it so, took it to pieces. The one way valve which tested OK previously popped off internally, cheap and flimsy. Everything was smothered in rubber grease, I wondered how the vacuum was getting through. The upper rubber seal on the air valve piston was loose on the shaft. This allowed the lower rubber seal to pull the piston down and remain stuck to the diaphragm. This in turn prevented the vacuum getting to the back of the vacuum chamber and stopped the brakes releasing. I fitted an external one way valve, cleaned out the rubber grease and manufactured a tiny washer to slot on the shaft above the outer rubber seal and under the retaining cap on the air valve piston. It works! I bought this servo from Rimmers, it was around £100, £50 cheaper than anywhere else, now I know why! Assembled by 4 year olds!

I have a lighter fuel powered soldering iron, the spark mechanism's had it so I have to light it on the cooker. Time for a new one! Hooray! I have some Triang OO in the loft, some nice engines, wagons and Pullman carriages, never did get the brake van (or carriage 79 as it appears to be called), but they're still available. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRIANG-PULLMAN-COACH-CAR-NO-79-PINK-LAMP-SHADES-OO-GAUGE-/331564429625?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item4d32c7b139

Yes, I just said "out of spec" as an excuse to by a new tool (Pete may remember that as Dan Miller syndrome (where is he?)) However, I have a 25 kilo sack of water softener salt in the garage, I may wile away an afternoon with it and my torque wrench.

Should be OK, crankshaft pulley 90-100 lb ft, rear hub nut 110-115. There's lots of bolts that need lower than 30 so if you buy this one you might need a smaller one as well. I've had a Britool for 40 years which does 20 to 120 but again there's some nuts that need less than 20. I wonder if they go out of spec? Perhaps I need a new one!

I don't recall these when I did mine. Could they be part of the gasket? Have a look at this, it's for a 175 Stromberg but much the same. http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Carbs/CarbsII/CarbsII.htm

I never new it was called a starting valve! What's wrong with the old one?

Um......not quite sure what you mean Sean? Is it something to do with the choke? is it on here? http://www.canleyclassics.com/triumph-gt6-mkiii-carburettor-details-all-markets-except-usa-and-sweden-up-to-engine-no-ke10000e-all-markets-except-usa-from-engine-no-10001e Or here? http://www.canleyclassics.com/triumph-gt6-mkiii-carburettor-details-all-markets-except-usa-and-sweden-up-to-engine-no-ke10000e-all-markets-except-usa-from-engine-no-10001e

and next day delivery, excellent customer service, quality products and, I believe, price match. What's not to like?

There are two sorts of sender unit for your car, one has two terminals and one has three. The third terminal is an earth so presumably the two terminal unit relies on the body of the unit for it's earth. Do you have 2 terminal or 3? The two terminal is no longer available so I'm if your previous owner had problems and replaced a 2 terminal with a 3 could that be the source of your problem?

You can't wear a coat in a GT6! It doesn't go with the shorts, people would think you have no trousers on! Well, there was that once, but the police were very good about it.

I had a look on the Aldon home site and they sell dozens of different models, far more than I expected. Possibly some are the same thing in different boxes but they claim some are specifically for ballasted systems. I think this is what I've got. However, I won't be testing it in sub zero conditions, take it out in the winter? You're having a giraffe!

My car has a ballast WIRE and I bought an Aldon from the club shop expecting to fit a separate 12 volt feed. However, the instructions showed me how to test my coil and clarify if a separate feed was required. It wasn't. It runs fine.

Yes, mine's at a jaunty angle too! I don't bother to top it up though, after all, before the spin on the oil drained back into the sump, the engine churned, filled up the filter and up came the oil pressure. Now that happens once at the filter change, instead of every start.

Big ends would be rhythmic and worst under load. I'm guessing from what you've said it does it when stationary? I'd try putting the points and condenser back, when I do stuff it's generally the last thing I did that screwed it up!

Oil change twice a year! Cricky, that's dedication! I suppose I better do mine.

Did you change the filter? It would take a while to fill and no pressure till it did. Or your one way valve is on the blink, they're just a rubbery flap, a bit crude.

I didn't realize initially, but the club shop do wheel bearings, so they should be quality. Also steering wheels.

I've got a condensing tumble dryer, the water from that is soft & distilled, so good in steam irons, (not that I use one! ) But is it demineralized?

Pete, I notice your car is now called the Blue Dragon, was it ever red? That would make it the Red Dragon, Hannibal Lector's old car? Have you looked under the spare wheel?

Oh, Darren just said that!

Only thing to think about is the club engines are not exchange, the work is done on your original engine. So depends how damaged your engine is.

Well that's good, you've cracked it! Probably dodgy spares rather than workmanship, there's a lot of poor quality stuff about these days, originating in foreign parts! There's a thread on here about it I think. Make sure you buy quality parts I'm sure someone will be along to recommend a supplier.

Could be the exhaust, possibly. UJs on the drive shafts and prop shaft are easy to diagnose. Wheel bearings on the other hand can be in a dreadful state and still appear OK. I've had a needle roller bearing with no needle rollers in it. A roller bearing with disintegrated ball bearings and roller cage. Both appeared OK, until taken apart, but did make the noises you describe.

I wonder why do they powder coat them then? What would be the best coating? Plastic? Rubber? My old one got splashed with under-seal 30 years ago and that's still there! I think I've mentioned before, my MOT man used to be an apprentice at a Triumph dealership and looks forward to my car coming in. He knows too much about these cars for my liking.