dougbgt6

Rimmers sell the newer mk4/1500 anti roll bar with a conversion kit, unfortunately, £90.

Are you talking about your GT6? Considering you will have to remove and weld in a new bulk head, would it be practical to cut out the battery compartment and the pedal mounting section and swap them over? Dunno, there's always unforeseen problems, my dad did it to a Volkswagen only to find it needed different petrol tank! The tank is at the front and doesn't change sides which means the RHD one has to have an indent to accommodate the steering column.

I just replaced my GT6 mk3 front shocks and springs. I bought them from the club shop so I'm sure they are correct, suggest you do the same. Also don't use those claw like spring compressors, I borrowed some from a neighbour. They pinged off twice before I decided they were trying to kill me and gave them back! Get hold of the compressor that has a plate at the top and the bottom and two long threaded bolts. Dead easy then, in fact simples! The club shop sells them but I used one owned by the Thames local area organiser. (Thanks Mickey!). Don't know if you're going polybush but my front shocker came with rubber bushes so probably best to speak to Gareth at the club shop if you want poly. Strangely my rear shockers came with polybushes. They are difficult to install, people say use a G clamp but I didn't have one big enough, so I took my vice off the bench and use that! And yes, do it on the car, if you get a stubborn nut and bolt you can use the weight of the car to swing against it.

Just replacing my shockers with ones from the club shop. The rear come with poly bushes but the front come with rubbers, don't know why?

Yes there will be very slight wobble in the wheel if it's right. This has caused me arguments and problems at MOTs. So I tighten the castle nut slacken it of and finger tighten it, put in the pin, down to the MOT. Then home, take out the pin, turn the castle nut back a flat, put in the pin. Simples!

No engine number? It should be stamped on the top of block on the dizzy side, but blocks can get skimmed. If you don't know the number how do you know domed pistons are correct? I thought domed were introduced in 1972 on mk3. The timing is arbitrary, these engines were designed for 5 star fuel, no longer available. According to Haynes mine should be 13 BTDC but others suggest for modern fuel 7 or 8. Static timing can be a lottery, there can be slack in the timing chain and other components so even when set to what you think is correct, it aint right! The old fashioned method, start the engine twist the dizzy for maximum revs, turn it back a gnats and take it for a run. If correct it shouldn't pink and after a longer run the plugs should be biscuit coloured.

They did make a lot of mistakes in olden times, my GT6 was a convertible according to it's original V5. There's a web site called how many left which is derived from dvla data and you can see lots of variations and anomalies on there. The modern dvla changed my V5 without question but, it would be worthwhile getting a heritage certificate for your car to support your cause, they like those! https://www.howmanyleft.co.uk/ http://www.heritage-motor-centre.co.uk/store/heritage-certificates-and-archive-services/heritage-certificates.html

Yes, access through the centre panel. The way I've done it in the past is undo the rev counter mounting thumb wheels via the centre panel. Then undo the rev counter cable from the dizzy and pop out the rev counter from the dash. Then you can get at the left hand speedo thumb wheel. The right hand one is accessed through the right hand parcel shelf. Then pop out the speedo. Fairly easy to undo, a bit trickier to get back.

I have heard he doesn't like the new fangled inter web so a phone call would be best!

Kevin, I have 6 cylinders and I can tell you, at my time of life, it can't be done! I also like the car to stay in one place when I'm working on it, particularly when it's on the jack! But pushing it back and forth is by far the easiest option when setting tappets.

Kevin, either your knuckles drag on the ground or there's something badly wrong with your engine! Why take the plugs out when you can just put it in gear.

Are they leather? I had thought "Red? Not for me!" But that looks pretty good. My interior is chestnut, I wonder if I can get chestnut colour leather?

Highest gear surely, further to push but much easier?

Park Lane are excellent, I got new foams from them. it was even easier than Pete suggests, I didn't need the old curtain, just wiggled the covers back on and no steaming required. I put my old covers through the washing machine fully expecting them to fall to bits and then I could buy the leathers. Unfortunately they came out pristine so the leathers will have to wait. I don't think PL do red leather but they might be persuaded.

Would Thames be the closest? I go there sometimes, it's in Windsor just off the M4. Don't speak to me about power brakes! I'm having a lot of trouble with my servo at the moment.

You've set me off now! There's no mention of the dealership on my V5. I bought the car from the second owner who bought it the day it was first registered. So the dealer was the first owner and I'm the third? Or am I the second? Whatever, my number plate is GDG and from this web site (why it's named londonbusroutes I don't know!): http://www.londonbusroutes.net/miscellaneous/regs.htm I discover the registration area is the second two letters. Yours (T)UR were allocated to Hertfordshire. Correct! Mine (G)DG, to my surprise, Gloucestershire. The PO lived in Adelstone in Surrey. A couple of candidates from the dealer list in Hemel and Watford but 30 miles from Adelstone. Why did he go that far? There's loads around the corner in Surrey! I confirm the block booking of number plates, the plate immediately after mine, also a GT6 was registered the same day in April 73. Despite this it was manufactured in Dec 72 whilst mine was Feb 73 so, for a for along time, it was tax exempt and mine wasn't! I suppose mine sold quicker being the new spec upgrade, non-rotoflex etc and the other the old spec, rotoflex.

Hi Sean, Welcome! GT6 mk3, excellent choice! Is it Rotoflex or Non-Rotoflex? What colour? (The car, not the rotoflex) Where abouts in London? Have you looked in the area section on here? Gives you area meeting locations. There are a few on here live in London. I would keep the mgb quite!

Looking at the thumbnail the servo doesn't look like it will fit any other way. However, it's on a Vitesse and you have a GT6. The OEM solution on GT6 was a Girling servo which looks like this: http://www.canleyclassics.com/triumph-gt6-mkiii-servo-assembly-fitted-from-commission-no-ke/kf20001 The Girling sat in the side to side orientation. The Lockheed is a tight squeeze side to side but will fit. If yours is mounted forwards and the servo slave cylinder is touching the underside of the bonnet, I suspect there isn't room for the second mounting bracket. This should be fitted to hold the servo solidly on the bulkhead and stop the brake pipes flexing.

And also whacking it on the bonnet with a tree branch, to teach it a lesson!

I am a little more sophisticated and would include PTFE tape and Araldite.

My Haynes doesn't differentiate between 1,2 & 3 and says 6.2 litres. Canley say it's the same radiator for all and it's the same block. Maybe there was a smaller radiator originally which is no longer available? Or, could your heater be blocked up? You wouldn't notice in a GT6

Yes, I know you're right. What would my old dad say? "Fix it with araldite!" probably. No, it's a new one.

I'm replacing my rear shockers, I've got the old ones off, but on one of the vertical links, the thread for the nut holding the lower end of the shocker, looks in a poor state I'm not sure it will take the 28lb minimum torque required. Is it wise to re-tap it? Or am I looking at a new vertical link?

Doesn't make the water any hotter, just turns the taps on quicker! Boom! Boom!

If you look at the diagram in the instructions the flexible pipe from the vacuum on the manifold drops down low and then up to the servo. The low point is the fuel trap. Like a U bend under the sink.