dougbgt6

Originally I had a Girling servo which was fitted as standard. Never really worked but as John points out, so what! Then it started leaking brake fluid into the vacuum and it had to go. Unfortunately I discovered that to remove a factory fitted servo is an MOT fail. (Yes it is!) It's OK if it doesn't work or leaks fluid into the vacuum, that's a pass! I bought the Rimmer one. Wish I'd seen the Ebay one!

I've had my mk3 engine re-bored twice, crank reground once, replaced once. (20 years apart, long story, 1st time P.O. had wreaked the engine towing a boat, 2nd time ex-wife did notice the red warning light and lose of oil!) ANYWAY, 2k sounds like a good price. I'd go through the club shop.

I've asked at a couple of club meetings and had some theories but no one can tell me what's what! The last upgrade to the GT6 towards the end of it's production included a servo as standard, previously it had been an option. Also as part of the upgrade the rear hubs and the slave cylinders were slightly enlarged improving the rear braking. When the servo was fitted as an option it operated on all 4 wheels. When fitted after the upgrade, it operated on just the front two. A further complication is after the upgrade the servo was a Girling. People tell me before the upgrade the option was a Lockheed. I'm told the Lockheed is a better/stronger servo than the Girling. So, I have a new Lockheed do I fit it on 4 wheels or two?

My bottle jack is quite old and under 5 inches which is quite low, most 2 ton jacks these days seem around 6.5 inches. Did see this on Ebay around 5 inches, 1.2 tons and, electric! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-Automatic-Electric-Hydraulic-Bottle-Jack-1-2-Ton-Tonne-Car-Caravan-Lifting-/400730382333?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item5d4d645ffd So far I think I've been fortunate all tyre incidents have only been partial deflation.

I bought my car in 1978 when it was 5 years old and I still have the original jack and most of the tools. Jack and tools were kept in a dull red vinyl bag secreted in the spare wheel. The jack is a scissor jack and extremely dangerous, I never use it, I have a bottle jack and axel stands. The jack winder clips under the luggage shelf over the spare wheel, it's only purpose now is to brace the luggage floor and stop it bowing. The jack was originally painted black but the winder blue, as it happens I've just repainted them both in Hammerite smooth blue which is pretty close to the winder's original colour. (I know, too much time on my hands! ) Additionally there was a stubby type wheel brace and a couple of spanners. I'll see if I can take a picture of the jack if you're interested.

My brother inherited my father's Vauxhall Astra. 16 years old, original exhaust and battery. (The car not my brother!). The exhaust is on it's way out but the battery shows no sign of deterioration. It's his everyday runabout and although virtually worthless very low mileage and he won't part with it. More evidence of O.E. superiority.

A young MOT guy couldn't find my wiper washer, I demonstrated the hand-draulic nature of the device, he was well impressed. He thought varying the pressure of the push, giving varying strengths of jet a distinct advantage. I think he was taking the...........!

I put my seat covers through the washing machine, they came out pristine, to my surprise! But I don't suppose that's an option here! A 50% solution of water and white vinegar worked well on my garden parasol, had to scrub it and do it twice. And water and washing up liquid to get rid of the smell!

Mine's been on for 4 years, never thought about changing the seals! One thing, from your picture I guess you have a GT6? The conversion doesn't allow the filter to be vertical, on mine it's about 45 degrees to avoid the chassis. Worried me at first, but not a problem. Also the oil filter canisters are variable, the non return valve is a simple flap and sometimes not very efficient. One guy on the old site recommended getting all the shop's stock out and blowing and sucking to find the best one!

There's no reason the rear brakes shouldn't return fluid to the master cylinder so, first, I 'm gonna refurb the master cylinder, lots of black specs in the fluid, disintegrating rubber? There goes another half litre!

I’ve just replaced my leaking Girling servo with a Lockheed and I’m getting a strange fault. The brakes work fine on my slopping drive with the engine off. Turn on the engine and apply the brakes, front and rear work. Foot off brake, front free but the rear brakes are binding. Disconnect the vacuum to the servo, rear brakes let go. Pretty odd as the server should only works on the front wheels! The master cylinder feeds a T piece, one side goes to the servo and the other to the rear brakes, this is the only point they have in common. So the servo is holding the rear brakes on via it’s fluid INLET. Doesn’t make sense! Is it a dodgy servo? It was cheap. .

Happy Birthday John Kelly! I don't know you but I feel duty bound to respond as someone did it for me! 62, well, well. I remember 62.

Yup! Sorry, I've done this job. I tried to get the slave off without removing the cowl. The bolts turned out to be so long I couldn't get them out. So I had to take the cowl off. It comes off quite easily and quickly, (unless it's been glued in with tile sealant!) You might take the opportunity, while you've got it off, to think about heat and sound deadening.

Are the end caps back on where they came off? The wrong end cap in the wrong place can give you exactly this problem. I think the con rods are cast as one piece , drilled and cut which means one is slightly different from another and the ends must go back with their appropriate other half. I'm concerned the crank spins with just the mains, it should turn fairly freely but not spin! Again I would expect the pistons to be pretty stiff in the bores. Also 60 thou? My engine's been re-bored twice and it's up to 40 thou which they told me was the max, no more. So, a bit suspicious!

Here's a picture. The Black vinyl frame is a bit mucky but I've cleaned that up. Honest!

I have seen people actually use the air vent for a dial, the ventilation system being practically useless you might as well! But like Dick I put extra gauges on a panel in the radio slot. It looks pretty good, like it's supposed to be there. I managed to get a radio to fit on the driver's side "parcel" shelf. Yes. there is one Probably more correctly described as an envelope shelf.

Sorry, a bit confused! Have you got the electronic ignition on yet? If you've fitted electronic ignition there's no guarantee, and probably quite likely, the dizzy is in the wrong place. When I put mine on the car started but it had to be redone to get it right. If you mean the points are still there and you're just checking it again before fitting the E.I. well, if you've re-gapped the points that will affect the timing but I'm surprised by that much.

Some great work going on here guys! I hope to get around to it at some point to fix my leak. But, to lower the tone, I have to tell you I've tapped an empty margarine tub to the top of my glove compartment. Generally I don't go out in the rain, but just in case......

Oh! Right! I think I can manage that.

Thanks Kevin, I sense your frustration with the fumble fingered codgers! I admit I had not noticed the side menu which is quite helpful. However I still think View New Content should not be View New UNREAD Content. Removing the new content from my view, once I've read it is illogical, it's still new content.

Yes, agree with Pete. View New Content disappears as soon as you've read it and it can be difficult to find the thread again. It should be New Content and not Unread New Content.

I've had all this! But all fixed now (Thanks Pete!) Some one has already said it but are your floats the right way up? Do they actually float? Are they moving freely on the spindles? (I had one pop off on one side.) You've had it on the bench gravity fed so it's not the pump. If the float chamber was air tight you wouldn't get any fuel in there. I'd try taking off the sump and use your finger while gravity feeding, you'll make a mess but then you'll know!

Well done Alan, I suspect this is what awaits me! I have a water leak on the lower corner, passenger side. The rubber is, well, no longer rubber! It's rock solid and covered in cracks, I hope it's just the rubber but experience says get the wire brushes, rust cure and zinc paint ready.

Have a look on some of the other Triumph sites/forums there are quite a few Yanks on some of UK ones and quite a few USA sites. You might even find you Red TR6 owner.

I had a modern where a connector to the fans got corroded and they stopped working. Garage estimate £300 to repair . I put a switch on the dashboard and ran a wire to the fans. Sorted. I ran on the motorway, around town and slow moving traffic. I only needed to turn the fans on when stationary in traffic for more than 15 minutes. Hope this gives you confidence in your system and how it's going to work. On my Triumph I have both Ammeter and Voltmeter they tell you different things. The Voltmeter is sometimes correctly described as a battery condition meter. If the voltage starts to fall you can deduce that there may not be enough charge going in however, an Ammeter tells you instantly the condition of you charging device.