Peter Truman

aren't the stub axles different too the Vitesse shaft thicker?

I had a Renault8 which incorporated a bleed screw in the high point of the heater core, I always thought it was a great idea and incorporated the same in my Vitesse Mk2 after noticing how much higher the heater is than the rad and engine. The old girl has got a bit close to boiling here in Oz when the temp was over 38C (it has been as high as 45 once) Also she got hot when in a 2hour traffic jam outside Lyon France in 1972 on a hot summers day, sat with the engine at 1500rpm + to get more air flow as the fixed fan is on the slowest moving part the engine crank, at least the Spit is on a smaller pulley on the water pump so spins faster. I spent 80% of my working life as a Water Supply Ops Engineer in the UK & here in Melbourne and when recharging a large trunk or any water main air will always rise to the highest point and it is important to get all the air out as it can be held in suspension causing all sorts of problems. So when restoring the Vitesse I incorporated a 1/4in bleed screw in the top heater hose at the heater using a 1/2in Yorkshire Tee with a brass nut soldered into the offtake with it pointing up for final refilling and air bleeding. The Sprint has the header tank notionally below the brass filling plug in the thermostat cover in the head so I have a temp header pipe/tube that I fit over the plug housing and I overfill the system and run the engine until warm and the level in the tube drops, then install the plug and remove tube. Peter T

Ref the stalling My Sprint recently had a similar problem, checked for air leak found the carb mounting bolts were not loose but only finger tight so tightened them car was no better, whilst checking the points happened to brush the back my hand past the coil and it felt damp, the year old Bosch 1.5Ohm coil was leaking oil and the coil overheating. Replaced the coil with the original 40yr old Lucas carried as a spare and all's sweet. Similarly the Mk2 Spit a couple of years ago started stalling when hot, rebuilt the head cause I could and checking for airleaks, but eventually noticed the carb floats were angled back towards the exhaust manifold and it was vapour locking. I replaced the plastic insulator/locator bush that mounts the floats to the carb $20 worth and also installed a DIY heat shield which is mounted one to each carb and behind the carb to manifold flange and therefore removable without removing the carbs making work access easier. Problem fixed vapour locks are not unusual with Trumpies here in OZ. Peter T

Well I finally got the earlier Herald (with reverse spacer washer fitted in the selector for the 4 syncro box)) style 3 rail cover onto the GT6 style 3 rail gearbox case. As Marcus correctly advised the reverse lever had to be bent sideways further. Initially I couldn't move it enough as around 5mm reqd, even with MAP gas getting it red hot, so I drilled a 1/8 hole in the centre of the lever just below the bend and above the welded nut then hacksawed down to the hole and the belted the top of the lever until the slot opened to 2mm trial fitted it then removed AGAIN, then off t0 a mate who is a very competent welder (rebuilt to concour 4 big Healeys, plus Twin Cam Escort, and Mk1 Sprite) and welded the slot, it hardly needed any filing. Fitted it back in the box and viola cover fitted and I can select all gears TOO. I reckon I moved the pin over around 6mm. I'm an expert now at dismantling the internals of a 3 rail box, some think I found to daunting in the past! I got so good at it I didn't have to drop the gear cluster. Now to fit the J type Overdrive. Interestingly Re the Healeys John is on No.5 a BN1 4 potter, ALL the chassis and body superstructure panels are made locally here in Oz at Ballarat to a very high standard and they ship worldwide. The chassis has been repaired with new parts, rejigged with any damage and panel distortion removed. He's now repairing the super-structure again all new parts where necessary, It is fantastic to see the quality of his work, this BN1 will sell for $150k not a bad pastime for a retired plumber & it gets him out of his wife's hair! Like everyone he needs more garage space to work. Thanks everyone Regards Peter T

Thanks for all that good info Gents, I'm still having trouble getting the rear selsctor (wide one 1st/2nd) o clear the reverse lever so as to get the cover in place. from the top cover side bolts is 48mm to notch in reverse selector and 46mm to the lever boss/pin so that should clear and there's one full thread protruding past the lever. The rear wide selector is a in VGC but is probably a very early Herald version, I don't think Triumph changed them during the 3 rail gearbox run not be Rimmer's listings anyway. I'm contemplating removing the input & main shaft then screwing the reverse lever on one more thread, then I can try Pete's vertical method. Thanks all for the great amount of info, and Marcus I'll save your expansive advice for future ref and use by our local Triumph Stalwarts. Peter T aka Grumpy

Paul I ended up cutting an 1/8in off the Spacer length with the hacksaw, quite chuffed I was vey straight & accurate now the Spacer is btwn 0.930 & 0.933in with a spare 1/8in annulas free. Pete your right the Spacer MUST fit at the rear of the box GT6M (M) thanks for that info I think your right, whilst now the reverse idler sits free of the other gears when not in reverse the reverse lever looks too far back still, can you remove the lever without dismantling/removing the geartrain again! I cannot find a mention anywhere of what gear the selectors and gear train should be in to replace the selector cover/forks back on the box Thanks all again for your help Peter T

Pete I believe your correct re location that's where the single rail box shows it, but the Rimmers drawing for the Spit Mk4 3 rail has it before the idler gear ie closer to the shaft anchor point of the box, so does my Triumph Vitesse Parts Catalogue maybe I'm taking the drawings too literally. All the internal components of the box are transferred from a single rail box, I've replaced some bearings and thrust washers, , oh and the reverse idler gear as it was chipped (21teeth) Paul my spacer 22G1435 ex single rail box is, 1.072in long, 0,696in ID, & 0.994in OD measured with my Bunnings Hardware elcheapo ($25) digital caliper been OK for 20yrs. I'll modify mine to 0.934in long (1/8in+ less) this should let the reverse lever move forwards at the top more letting it engage the reverse selector notch easier (hopefully) Luckily my friend has just got a small lathe so we'll do it professionally! Thanks will let you know the outcome Peter T

Ref the Spit 1500 gearbox internals into a 3 Rail 4 Syncro Vitesse Mk2 or Spit Mk4 306468 gearbox case. Well I got it all in BUT when I tried to fit the selector cover I had to push too hard it fitted but reverse wasn't right. I summise that I've used the single rail reverse spacer 22G1435 which goes towards the rear of the reverse idler gear and box case, whereas the 3 rail Vitesse/Mk4 Spit uses a 137687 spacer on the opposite side of the idler ie towards the front of the case closest to where the idler shaft is anchored into the case. As 137687 is no longer available can anyone provide its dimensions, hopefully I can modify 2G1435. I think it might be just a length issue. I hope someone understands the issue and can help. Regards Peter T

My daughters Holden Commodore/Omega 3.9lt V6 has an incredibly small paper element easy to get at the top of the engine adjacent to and level with the V6 rocker cover, its mounted in a beautifully made alloy holder with a screw top, BUT size wise it's about the size of a lawn mower air filter approx. 100mm long and 45mm dia. The issue is getting the air flow deflector off the sump to remove the sump plug, the guard is around 600mm sq slotted in at the front then fixed with around 6no. 13mm bolts that fix into the body and protrude around 25mm past the captive type nut WHY!! whatever happened to good engineering of around 2 threads protruding, good job were not in Europe where they would RUST, Bl**dy fast assembly air guns. The sump guard is a bugger to remove and replace. The irony is the daughter helped to design the car, but her excuse is not that bit the driveline!!

Thanks folks for the feedback Re the spin on filters I also had one fitted never looked right to get adequate clearance If I remember correctly it had to sit slightly uphill pointing forward to clear the blow off valve and other protrusions, so I thought it defeated the reflux action and drain back, so I too switched back to the paper elements. I notice a lot of modern cars are going back to replaceable paper elements BUT they are soo soo small, you wouldn't dare leave the service too long Still no logical response why the GT6 filter is not as high as the other 6 potters. I learnt a long time ago NOT to try and understand Triumph's reasoning and still after 50 years exclaim "Why would they do that": I've had Triumphs since 1967, starting with a 66 Herald Conv JBA37D, which replaced a 61 Mk1 Frog Eye Sprite, OH what a breath off fresh air the Herald was. The Mk2 Vitesse came back to Oz with me in 1974 & its still in the garage, but its got a 66 Spitfire (daughters) & 76 Sprint as mates Regards PeterT (aka Grumpy Rabbit)

The GT6 Oil Filter bowl and hence filter appear shorter in depth/height than the Vitesse and 2000/2500 Saloon as the GT6/Spitfire chassis is the same at the front as the Vitesse/Herald why would this be. I assume that the Vitesse would fit and clear the chassis/ side engine shields. Can anyone advise I'm curious and its of general interest only. Regards Grumpy Rabbit Peter T

What about the drivers side gearbox opening in the bulkhead on a Vitesse, It may be wider to accommodate the 6 potter starter motor which is on the drivers side vs the passenger side on a Herald or is it just my perception. Others may be able to advise confirm/deny Regards Grumpy.

A friend & fellow club member had a long term restoration project of a Mk2 2000 Estate, unfortunately he died last year far too young. The Estate is an ex UK import and "The Doc" had it for more than 20 years, in fact the family fell in love with the Estate model after touring the UK and Ireland in a hire unit. His daughter is getting married in 12 months and understandably wants to go to the church in her dads 2000 Estate, Station Wagon or whatever your preference. The body has been a ground up bare metal restoration, and is completely re-sprayed in old English white, I think I remember the Doc telling me there was a special way of installing the rear door glass into the doors as the frames are I think squarer than the normal saloon. Can any one advise of the special procedures necessary to fit the glass and winder mechanism into the doors. The Triumph Enthusiasts Guild, club members here in Melbourne Australia, are up to the challenge of finishing the car, I think we've all had saloons during our very long Triumph apprenticeships, but would appreciate any specialist help with Estate peculiarities, The Estate model is very rare here in OZ. Regards. Peter Truman TSSC Member 70692

For my sins I added a Dolly Sprint to my stable joining the Mk2 Spit & Mk2 Vitesse. My daughter had a Dolly Sprint 20 years ago, mine is one of 70 modified cars sold here in Australia by Leyland equipped with a LSD as standard equipment, it doesn't half bite when you get one side off road in the gravel! I've fitted the Power Spark electronic ignition to both the existing cars easily & successfully, but the Sprint is more difficult as it requires a different Rotar & Distributor Cap to the original. It uses their Power Spark standard electronic pickup module so as I see it the Dist Cap needs more internal height to accommodate this and the Rotar. I also brought a new set of HT leads from a separate supplier with the special extended plug ends for the Sprint, very nice and professionally made. I decided to trial fit the Dist Cap at the weekend all was OK but being higher than the original the dist cap fouls the inlet manifold rear stud so it won't seat fully or lock down onto the dist base on the manifold side or that spring clip won't lock down. Now the rear stud projects by around 5/8in beyond the nut so I could cut it shorter using a Dremmel, but I'm reluctant to do this unless absolutely necessary. I've found the Power Spark units good value for money and besides retiming the engine as the pick up is located slightly different to the standard points their easy to fit & work great, but the Dolly has proved difficult all the way, I brought the standard D59 Ignition kit (included 12v coil) only to find out subsequently it needed the 44D4 different Dist Cap, which wasn't included. After some negotiation Power Spark came to the party with their alternative Distributor Cap, and HT lead ends part of the kit. Does anyone have experience with installing the Power Spark alternative Dist Cap used in a Sprint, did it foul the inlet manifold rear stud & did they cut it shorter to get the cap to seat properly & are their any other issues to look out for. Regards Peter Truman

Thanks gents I think I've worked it out. The gearbox was a single rail out of a MG Midget I believe as I purchased a gearbox/1500 engine from a MG person, I'd assumed it was equal to a Spit 1500, BUT in reality the main rail components appear to be from a Spit MkIV as the second and 3rd gear bushes are the same and have a separate 0.159 thick thrust washer between, also there was no BL12 indent ball hole/placement in the original non-overdrive shaft. The Spit 1500 single rail has different 2nd and 3rd bushes with the second a built in thrust washer, the adjustment there is via a thrust washer UKC934 against the 1st/2nd syncro hub. With all the gears and original washers/thrusts installed the circlip TKC644 is a tight fit ie min play against thrust washer 159978 located between the 3rd/4th syncro hub and 3rd gear. The overdrive mainshaft I purchased from the USA (cheap @ $65US) is from a Spit 1500 so has the BL12 indent ball hole. I had assumed it was all Spit 1500 as why would a Spit MkIV single rail box be in a Midget, I can only assume this was due to 45 years of rebuilds and replacements, or did Triumph give it's poor cousins the hand me downs! Well I'm putting it all back together in the 3 rail casing now and the final proof will be when installed in the car. Thanks for the input & help Peter T (68 Vitesse Mk2)

Thanks for that info the SC Parts clearly shows the correct style thrust washer with the cut out for the mainshaft indent ball. I incorrectly called the indent ball BLS106 it should be BL12. I still don't understand that my old washer was only 0.121in thick whereas the correct UKC934 is 0.199 to 0.207in thick, mine is obviously incorrect as the annulus surface area is too small compared to the SC picture. If this conversion works OK in my daughters Spitfire I'll then convert the spare Dolomite 1850 single rail J type overdrive box into a 3 rail case for my 68 Mk2 Vitesse. I should know all the pitfalls by then, I did/have been buying 2 of all the circlips, washers, spacers just to be safe seeing availability is an issue. Regards Peter T

Rather than buying a Single Rail Spitfire Alloy Bell housing at considerable expense, when I had several Alloy 3 Rail units available, I've gone along the route of transferring the Spit 1500 internals into a GT6 gearbox case. Oh I'm also going down the route of a J type overdrive conversion too, so the mainshaft has been changed too (RKC767). I've sourced all the necessary components, here in Aus, UK, USA, and Canada so it's taken a little time to assemble all the parts. A lot of washers and thrusts are NLA. When I stripped down the original Single Rail box I kept the mainshaft gears spacers and thrusts in order, but my thrust washer to 2nd gear UKC934 (to 937) doesn't look like the unit shown in Rimmers, Moss or Canley gearbox diagrams. The unit shown there is a typical Thrust Washer with up to 4 thickness between 0.199in to 0.207in and appears to have raised bearing faces, but mine is a simple annulus arrangement of 0.875in ID, 1.241in OD and 0.121in thick/wide, there is also a single ball bearing BLS106 which inserts into the mainshaft at this location, my thrust washer won't go over this bearing, nor will the bearing fit into it's hole with my washer in place. Oh and my thrust washer has a groove in it where it butts up to the 1st/2nd Syncro Hub. Can anyone supply a cross section of the Spit 1500 Single Rail &/or MkIV with a 3 Rail arrangement gearbox thro the mainshaft giving the relationship of all the components, all the usual suppliers show an isometric arrangement with components generally in line. One further question relates to the two spacers each side of the needle roller in the end of the input shaft ie 22G2840 and 22G2839, I'm sure I have both the latter ex USA. Can some one provide the dimensions of both but mainly 22G2840, as mine appears to be a very tight fit and before I fit it into the end of the inout shaft I don't want to get it jammed. Regards Peter T

I know this won't be the problem but I was following my son in his Jap sports car and both his rear flasher/brake light were dim. I immediately thought of the earth, so when he got home I checked all the earths, but they were good, so I checked the bulbs, some one had fitted 24volt bulbs. This particular car has a tendency to relatively frequently blow its rear bulbs a problem with the model maybe that's why the 24v bulbs were fitted, not by me?? Just shows what can happen at a service, by a reputable manufacturer. Peter T

My Mk2 Vitesse had the std silver Triumph 4.5in rims then several years ago I purchased a set of Australian Performance Minilite replicas which are 5.5in wide, they never got onto the Vitesse my daughter pinched them for her 66 Spit Mk2 (look good) so I ended up with her set of Ford 5.5 J reverse rim cream wheels (like formulae Ford used) which we both hated, so I purchased from a club member here in Oz a set of Spit 5.5in oval slot wheels, but they were not the best condition, they were relatively cheap. I had the wheels sand blasted, re-rolled straight and dings in the lips removed, then powder coated silver grey, they look great on the Vitesse with the black plastic wheel caps. By the time I'd finished they had cost me more than a set of Performance Minilite replica's. There's a moral there some where but I do have 5 wheels , the spare is only 4.5in tho. Ok where are the original Vitesse 4.5 in rims, one's a spare for the Spit, I've kept a spare for myself in case? and the other 3 are with other local Vitesse owners, as spare wheels. There are only about 25 authentic Vitesse's in Australia, a few Aust Herald 12/50's (Vitesse bonnet) with 6 potter engines fitted but not necessarily the other Vitesse upgrades ie the mods are inconsistent and dubious! Regards Peter T