Peter Truman

A club member here had an early 60's Herald Coupe (Aus CKD by AMI) and he had to slam the doors, at a "tweak it day" I fixed the anti burst wedges, realigned the doors and hey presto the door shut with min action, not quite Jag like, but close! The daughters Mk2 Spit has a closed circular section door rubber not the closed cell type, and that affects the door closure, I need to replace it with a small C section flap pinchweld, but there's only one supplier here and he only sells it in 50 mts rolls $+$+$, at a max the Spit and Vitesse would use 12mts!! I have thought about cutting longways along the bottom the closed circular type and trimming the flap length to create a small C section to see if that helps/works

Herald/Vitesse door slamming can just be the wedge slider at the bottom of the A post door catch being seized a good clean and making sure it slides as you shut the door makes for finger push door closing. There again it could be more serious but the slider is an easy fix!! .

Similarly I use the bonnet locks on both the Spit & Vitesse to stop the catch's opening whilst driving. Your bonnet catch's are in extremely good condition are the NOS, if so who was the supplier please

Ironically my Vitesse Glove Box Key is the same as my daughters Mk2 Spitfire Boot Key.

An side issue with pushing the gearstick all the time, for our sins my son had an Alfa 33 in his youth and we had to get the gearbox rebuilt by the local Alfa specialists, who advised it needed new selector forks which is not unusual on Alfa's as the Italian hot drivers always held the gearstick even when in gear pushing the brass selector forks into contact with the selector gear causing the fork to wear down very very thin!. Since then I have never held the gearstick after changing gear!

On Triumph Experience Forum it was notified just now that Moss and Rimmer’s have been purchased by an American Equity company which specialises in auto aftermarket suppliers Is it correct?

What about 2 nuts on the outer castle nut thread and lock them together ie the reverse way of removing a stud.

Can't remember where my dished washer came from I'm a hoarder for these sort of small things, when an electrical thing breaks down I strip it for all the sundry parts, bolts self tappers etc, drives the wife mad!! It looks similat to an arial outside finisher but I don't think there large enough.

what about a small hole through the lever and roll pin protruding across and above the split ring 69, roll pin easily pushed out for future replacement of ball and springs, not personally tried so can't advise outcome. Re ball sitting too low I had one that pushed thro the remote I used a large thin semi spherical dished washer that fitted perfectly in the remote and it's still going strong years later.

Note the Spitfire Mk1 & 2 are gravity fed ie the tank outlet is at the bottom there is no pick up tube, all brass fittings from memory, I prefer positive suction to the pump rather than a sucker pump set up. It would get over your pick up pipe issue. The only issue with a drowned suction is if you remove the inlet pipe to the mech pump is the tank keeps draining!!

Pls note PL's comment re washer very important, the advice tends to get overlooked!

I think I also say them on Brabhams F1 early cars

Thanks for the process wonder how they changed the spring angle packer/spacer on the diff top

Iain interesting following the thread, is it possible that can you list what was done by Hardy's to fix the problem from the diff carrier cups relocation to the spring? (transverse) being at the correct angle how was that changed, I know the transverse spring has FRONT stamped on it but I thought the consensus of opinion was that was only to sto confusion on the assembly line!

I always assumed that the front seat hinge bolts should be short shanked bolts as fully threaded would quickly wear down quickly allowing the seat to move about on the runners

I have Unkel K's top and bottom ball joint removers, the top I've found damages the bottom flange of the ball joint where the rubber boot seals but that isn't a problem as I'm usually replacing the joint. The bottom remover I've had mixed results with sometimes works others not? The most effective way to remove I've found is the two hammer way as indicated! Now for the punch line I usually smear a thin coat of grease on the taper, which is against all intent of locking the taper a dry joint would appear to be the design, I then use a normal nut to tighten the taper up locking it then as the joint doesn't turn then replace the standard nut with the provided locknut, it all stays tight until the next removal using two hammers? I'll be interested in the nay sayer arguments! I have over the years here in Aus returned ball joints to the suppliers as I perceived the male & female tapers were at different angles ie the joint appeared to rock before tightening down hard, good quality replacements from other suppliers fitted better. One thing I've noticed with recent replacements while the tapers were good the bolt thread and nut were metric threads, doesn't affect performance but those who insist on originality may object. My last ball joints purchased were really old hat having grease nipples fitted not even OE on my 68 Vitesse Mk2 ie greased for life!

Ditto and welding any crack in the bracket/arm insitu to the header is difficult due to access issues, as the bracket is rivited to the header and has two anchor arms into the header, been there done that!

If it’s difficult to extract I believe using a grease gun on the outside of the bush and pump grease in it’ll hydraulically push the spigot bush out. I’ve used the same method to pump out seized brake caliper pistons.

A neighbour of ours ran a Taxi service of 50 taxi’s (each. Licence was worth about $300k) their solution to a blocked or restricted CAT was smash it through with a crow bar no further any obstruction, all taxi’s of that period ran on gas so it wasn’t too great a pollution issue. He told me that quick solution after I’d just paid $900 for a new CAT for the then daughter in laws Hyundai

A past friend here used to use a big container of Molasses it worked but what a mess to clean it up. I used to use Swimming pool acid it worked, and there was no effect on the final paint finish. If I washed it off it quickly flash rusted

Here's part of the Club Permit Applic, there's all up 3 pages which includes the specific authorised car clubs authorisation the Permit is renewed annually and the club has to endorse the renewal that you are still a club member. It actually doesn't say it's a classic if older than 25 years BUT specifies classics & historics post 1930 and older than 25 years!

Unlike your classics which have to be 40 years old to get free rego we here can put our cars on Club Permit at 25 years old, it’s not a registration but a permit to use the car for up to 45 or 90 days per annum for personnel use at the cost of around $80 for 45 days and Proportionally more for 90 days. You have to be a member of a govt registered car club to get a permit and the club usually insist on a degree of club participation to be approved the permit which is then issued by the govt registration authority So you could say we classify a car as classic at 25 years

Driving a Commer 2 stroke was that video Aus based the terrain and vegetation looks local

I did the Same conversion on my Mk2 Vitesse eons ago removing the rubber bag and using a push contact switch, only issue is the return spring isn't strong enough to break the contact and return knob to normal off/out position I have to pull it off, maybe time to revisit & see if I can find a stronger spring return switch. I think a similar switch was used by several makes I found one from a Chrysler Centura made locally here for a short time it has a 3 position switch, off, slow, and fast, with push pump electrical connections switch mounted on the rear, it had a cheap plastic push rod which attached to the removable same knob, didn't give a positive feel when turning the speed switch, cheapy.

I know about soaked seat foams, my son drove into a lake/retarding basin as an 18 year old how I won't recite as its too embarrassing! the car was in about 20 feet at a depth of just under the dash board, the lights were still on after 45 min when I got there, fortunately I was able to get the tow truck to pull the car out slowly, so the doors didn't get ripped off and the water was able to escape. One lesson I learnt was oil floats on water as when I removed the sump plug the container I usually used for oil changes wasn't big enough and the oil came out last all over our drive!! yep the gearbox and diff oil had to be changed too! Now seat foams I converted my dads old portable sauna and put the two front seats in separately it took a day each to dry out, but the rear seat wouldn't fit in the sauna and even here in the Aus summer it took around 2 weeks to dry out, he ran the car for another 2 years before upgrading or was it downgrading to an Alfa. The car returned to service after 2 days all working OK sans rear seats, the carpets with only 1/2in of insulation dried out in a couple of days. With the lights on under water and some dash electrical connectors under water the electrolysis had cleaned the contacts up to a dull brassy colour, from memory re our water meter experience called de-zincification. All my son was worried about was his bl+++y hi fi system amplifier and boom system, no worries it fired up OK!!