Peter Truman

I'm reading the latest posts with interest and slightly bemused, the chassis ID on my Vitesse & Spitfire is located on the top of the front crossmember and cannot be seen with the engine in, and was for manufacture purposes only ie chassis supplied by a supplier to Triumph. So in my mind the chassis number is irrelevant. Now for my real query were lucky we have a separate chassis to work from if you had a Midget ie a monoque and you had to replace the floors door sills spring mountings and the front bumper mountings would you (have) to advise anyone NO, even if you replaced parts of a Spit chassis would you advise anyone, NO, so why would you have to change the cars Comm No & ID data if you replaced the whole chassis? If you want to be honest Joe cut the chassis plate off the buggered chassis and put it on the replacement chassis job done all car ID numbers match and are correct! When rebuilt in the 1990's our Spit had a replacement chassis as the original was bent front RH, the chap (friend) who did it still had the old chassis and when retiring his business last year and dumping a lot of old steel removed the ID from the old chassis and gave it to me, we keep it for prosperity and I might put it on the new chassis if I pull the engine?? there's no requirement to record the chassis No. here in Vic Aus only engine No and Comm No now VIN. stupidly older cars rego is primarily recorded by the Engine Number, and Comm is incidental, the older record card base (not computerized pre 84) is filed by make and engine number. I'm not going to go near the rebodied TR6 with original chassis argument and the free rego issue, what your registration want and are informed I assume are two different things! Speaking as one across the world looking from the outside and is not knowledgeable of the regulations just thinking what would be easiest and being honest I'd seriously consider as the chassis and running gear are potentially 40 yrs old.! Peter T

Was it VW that used to use a Petrol Heater, Oh Petrol Heater in an Electric Car Ooh! I always queried what happens to the elect cars batteries in extremes of weather ie how their performance was affected by cold and hot weather eg Canada and Australia (also both countries have great distances to traverse), an article by CTEC (BU-502: Discharging at High and Low Temperatures) covering lead acid and Lithium generally advise optimum performance between 20 and 27C, at -18C it will deliver by as low as only 50%. and a battery operating at 30C the cycle life is reduced by 20% & at 40C the life cycle is reduced by a whopping 40%. This made me smile, interestingly both NiCad and Li-ion can operate down to -40C but at a reduced discharge rate, but charging is out of the question at this temperature. above is selective for guide only and better people than me might understand the full context of the article. Peter T

Two queries, I never understood why Triumph fitted a 3.27 Diff to the Switz GT6's with all those mountains surely a higher diff would have been more suited. Secondly the 3.89 diff in the GT6 was that the old American desire to be the first car away from the traffic lights. Peter T

Just a quick Question Colin have/do you do it with an overdrive box attached, as I have a rebuilt 1500 and J O/D 3rail box to install in the daughters Mk2, and I would have normally done it as separate parts g/box thro the cabin and engine out thro bonnet space. Peter T

When taking the body off assuming you remove the doors do remember to fit door braces across the top of the door openings to stop the body flexing and possibly bending a little at this weakest point. Don’t know if leaving doors in place would stop this flexing but it would possibly cause too much paint damage. Others could have experience when we did our rebuild it was bare metal so doors off and fit temp braces that fit across top hinge to door lock there available occasionally on eBay. Peter T

As Colin said Rimmers or others, attached photo shows the drivers side panel which is vinyl attached to millboard or similar. the wheel arch cover is just vinyl and can be difficult to attach/glue on without getting creases in it, heat is required there are posts on how to achieve a smooth finish. If you look on the Triumph Experience Website under Topic "Vinyl Installation on the Wheel Arch" started Dec 23rd with 8 replies, there are some helpful tips re install. Look at web address, triumphexp.com/spit-and-gt6-forum.8/vinyl-installation-on the-wheel-arch.1668315 its a free membership website. Peter T

like your leather seat belt guide under the headrest Richard. I have a Dolly Sprint also whose overhead hand grips had deteriorated in the OZ heat, I had a couple of stiff old black leather belts and replaced the vinyl plastic hand grip with the leather strip around 1.25in wide looks great and doesn't sag. Driving a Sprint there's plenty of leg room but even with the steering wheel dropped it's still a bit of sit up and beg! With the Mk2 Spit, Vitesse and Sprint all different driving positions! Will report on original seat location in a couple of weeks. Regards Peter T

thanks Richard, I've taken a copy to fully digest, it appears that the MGF seats are significantly wider than the standard seats esp on the seat squab. I notice they still don't clear the B post BUT wit back rest adjustment the back can be rotated up to give more rear slide movement. Both MX5 and MGF seats should be available here in OZ I might temp try the bars to see how much I can shift the seat across to the transmission tunnel, I will report same, the weekend looks cooler here in Melbourne to have a play. Peter T

Gents I’m only 6’ 2” and I find the Vitesse Convertible decidedly short on legroom esp with those very big B posts as the seat won’t go past them. Question what alternative seat is narrow enough to get past that big B post. Or alternatively can the original Mk2 seats be modified to give more backwards movement Regards Peter T

Nick my daughter made that comment re traction control wasn’t included, she’s an aero space engineer and worked on driveline design at GM Holden as well as the development section. interestingly my co cars esp Ford Ghia Fairmonts had it and it scared me trying to pull out to cross traffic it would bog down rather than spin it’s wheels and move it consequently I used to turn it off and light it up probably more that I felt in control. nowerdays you don’t get the option of a button to turn it off Anglefire thanks for the info on Smart Motorways we can do it anywhere there’s two lanes in one direction regards Peter T

Good to hear, definitely helps traffic flow. Please What defines a smart motorway does the M1 or 6 qualify. Peter T

make sure there's no burr on the outside end of the pipe that stops the olive slipping on, you may just need to clean the outside of the pipe at the olive end of the pipe with a bit of fine emery paper to assist the olives placement. I've had the opposite on an old pipe olive where there's been a leak thro the olive on the pump inlet & I've lightly soldered the olive in place. Had the car 49 years and hasn't subsequently leaked even after frequent dis-assemblies. Peter T

Colin how would your wife react over here in OZ where your permitted to overtake on the inside lane as well, my uncle visited from the UK several years ago and he never got used to it, but hey it works! Hey our trams people will try to do a right turn from the centre of the road in front of a tram makes a big mess of the car! I don't want to be racist but the Chinese driver of either sex (we have a great Chinese DIL) how their minds work defeats me they want to be over there so just go there stuff the risk or traffic flow! DIL was going for lunch with some friends to a Vineyard, her phone GPS said turn left as she passed the entrance driveway, so she DID straight into a ditch! New undershield needed on 4WD. Parked the Polo in a car park didn't realise there was a high kerb to stop going forward came back tried to drive out forwards felt the resistance so gunned up over the kerb, rather than backing out thought it would be easier to keep going ever seen a Polo's undertray after that! We went to Taiwan for the Chinese wedding after the first here in Melb, after dinner out in Taichung the father had to stop to pick up some framed photos of the prelim wedding where they all get dressed in wedding attire in numerous outfits, at 12AM he just stopped in the middle of a 3 lane road got out put emergency flashers on and went to pick photos up leaving the wife and I in the car for 10mins with the occasional car spinning past on either side. He picked us up from Taipei international airport for the 2hr drive to Taichung all the way along the excellent freeway he was watching real time TV game shows on the front monitor! Fortunately I don't speak Mandarin and he doesn't speak English, or I might have been tempted to say something, but he is a really nice guy & we love our DIL dearly. Sorry if I've offended anyone, Peter T

I shouldn’t admit to this we have a DeLonghi Dish Washer at 2yrs old was replaced by the manufacturer because it just kept stopping and when restarted returned to the programme start! The replacement new washer. Started the same after 6 months the service guy was pulling his hair out so he checked the power source which I had moved with a flat plug multi point extension board, the reason being one to get the on off switch in a cupboard and to gain extra room behind the dishwasher so it went in under the bench top. Guess what over nearly 20 years the auto cut out switch of the extension boards spring had relaxed due it hanging vertically, and it was that kept switching the power off. Replaced the extension lead board and mounted it horizontally and all’s good! well we did get a new dishwasher to replace the 2 year old one so the clock starts from then. The wife loved the old unit not so keen on the replacement what the heck can’t win. not telling you how old our top loader washing machine is ( last of the Aussie built units I think) cause it might get a scare ! Peter T

I've used this Force made Rivnut set for around 15 years quite frequently, it was recommended for Al nuts but I've used steel rivnuts with no problem. only issue is the small 3mm Al Rivnut its very easy to strip the nut internal thread when compressing, but I've only used a couple in 15 years so I've upgraded to steel in that size. I've also upgraded to a couple of UNF sizes with extra mandrels, I have a local (little Chinese chap and wife) supplier who supplies spares & rivnuts of all sizes and threads for the Force, tho he charges over twice what I paid for it originally. The gun is cast or drop forged Aluminum, think it cost me $25, 15 years ago. Peter T

Doug the Goodridge S/S braided hoses I use have a ptfe inner pipe carrying the brake fluid with the woven S/S outer braiding then covered with a plastic?cover, mine is imitation carbon fibre finish They do keep a firm pedal under repeated use when driven hard! The pedal remains rock hard. The Dolly Sprint I have the rear pipe obviously shredded internally as it kept the brakes on and locked, that is when I replaced them with the S/S braided ptfe flexible pipes. It was interesting as the brakes locked on whilst turning on a country road don’t want to repeat that again. Peter T

Is the car on the ground or still jacked up. hoses get extended when jacked & look wrong! If you have to change the hoses think about the Stainless Steel braided type gee they made a great improvement on my daughters Spit 16 years ago, a real hard pedal all the way. I'm in Australia and interestingly the early S/S types with no plastic sleeve over the braiding or nylon sleeve/bush between the S/S braid and the compressed crimp on ends are illegal here, ADR here say because the S/S can fatigue and fray/break at the joint interface! BUT they were fitted new to European cars go figure! I've subsequently changed the Vitesse and Dolly to the later plastic sleeved S/S braided type must do the Spit! Similarly ADR's (Aust Design Rules) don't permit the use of copper pipes in the brake system as it can work harden and fail, I had brought a set of Automec made Cu ones which my friendly local brake supplier had to remake in steel bundy pipe, but the brass fittings were OK to use, he took the copper pipe in part exchange for use on caravans or boat trailers where I believe its OK, go figure! Public Servants & supposed Tech Experts! Peter T

Must be a world wide special I brought 3 from our local Super Cheap Auto store 2 long ones at $9 ea and a stubby one to replace the daughters Spit one $20. All to replace old 10 year ones that I couldn’t get the powder to loosen up by banging and shaking. Tried one and it worked now white powder on the ground up the unused side of the house aah it’ll wash down. Must be able to use the empty Aluminium Canister for something! now what to do with the other 2 old ones Peter T

Yes John, still in Suburban Melbourne, fortunately Vic is doing quite well re fires I believe a couple of small fires in eastern Gippsland, we live near Moorabbin Airport where a couple of the big Elvis type Heli's and smaller aircraft are based, currently little activity from them. When the Elvises take off you hear them they fly low and having 3 golf courses local means they make the most of it! esp at 2AM, but it has to be done. last year they dropped an Elvis in our major harvest/storage Dam of Thomson whilst refilling (joke no pee in Thomson!) which holds 1086000 Megalitres of water (2/3 of our storage) & is 27klm long. When the Tv news showed the pic of the big chopper on its side in shallow water I knew exactly where it was. But NSW is in a mess, & sth Queensland has gone quiet but there've had it bad fires will have to burn themselves out, or good rain, some southern areas of Queensland have had torrential rain must of missed the fire area. SA have a couple burning and WA have had a few I think there under control. The disappointing fact is that a lot of the fires are lit by fire bugs! Victoria's danger period is Jan and Feb, whereas historically NSW & Q were pre Christmas. We have two Fire Authorities in Vic The MFB covering Melb and fully paid officers (one lives next door) and the CFA (Country Fire Auth) who are predominately local volunteers, the state govt has just reorganized the boundaries between the two & changed their names, making the CFA basically only country areas and totally volunteer so no ones happy and all hell has let loose. When I lived in the UK in the 60's up north in Yorks, the market town of Stokesley (outside Middlesborough) our fire brigade was volunteer, the chief was the milk man, and after they rang the station bell he'd drive round picking the firees up and they'd be pulling their trousers on as they jumped on the truck! We are having 39C today, but not a total fire ban for all state areas WHY! then down to mid 20's for Thursday, then Friday back up to 40 plus! then down to 20's. Next week mid 20's Aah Christmas cooler! The son was in Sydney last week and advised the smoke was very bad, running eyes, and he suffers from hay fever, cut the trip short and came home. Before the breakup of Melbourne Water in the mid 90's we had a permanent summer fire trained paid workforce of over 200 specialized catchment firemen, plus our local catchment personnel, which was backed up by our own major construction groups of thousands, and several continuously manned watch towers in the catchments which were above the tree level could see all the catchments, so spot fires were quickly sighted firees choppered in and fire put out, we could marshall over 20 big dozers, fire water tenders, their response was immediate and the fires were soon under control. now that's all gone and were at the bequest of the state govt sustainability and environment dept, who don't have the same response attitude! Peter T

yes on smaller cast pipes they put an hydraulic expander down crack the pipe and pull a poly pipe thro butt welding the poly lengths together saves trench digging to remove the old cast iron pipe and laying 6mt lengths of uPVC 0r Ductile Iron (later seldom used nowerdays), they still have to dig at each house (approx. 20mts) to reconnect their water service pipe I've attached a photo of a steel water main repair 2in Perf Peg, its physically pushed into the hole, which could start at 1/2in and expend to 1.5in as the rotten steel collapses before it grabs and holds, the mains water pressure could be as high as 100psi, so its no mean feat to get that initial main peg in I assure you!, If your walking or crawling up an older 900mm or larger steel or wrought iron main for inspection you have to watch out for them their points stick right into the main/conduit and bloody hurt! as only the outside is cut off when the repair plate is welded over. On one old 68in inverted syphon through a valley connecting two lengths of aqueduct when internally inspecting prior to reconditioning with an insitu turbine sprayed on cement lining we came across 100years of repair pegs totaling 30 patch's in a 40ft length, that was dangerous its very dark in there and hard to see. If you really want fun all the harvest reservoirs comprise closed catchments totaling 140,000 hectares with no speed limits or other traffic on the access and fire tracks, my daughter learnt to drive on them it taught her good car control, don't ask at what speed! luckily she never hit a roo or wombat. I've hit two roos with her Spit on club EMR's fortunately only glancing blows the roos were Ok ran off and no damage to the Trump, proves the brakes worked well though. Back on thread, as referred to previously my modified Vitesse handbrake adjustment arrangement with extended threaded bar using a threaded barrel nipple & lock nut to extend the cable length, The initial shortened end of the cable made threading the end of the cables thro the relocated cable guides very easy. Peter T

I tried a reply but timed out up to around 1900 30in cast iron, 1925 up to 36 in wrought iron, there after steel initially lead jointed then welded joints initially 46 in and around 1960 84in to 120 in.Nowerdays gone backwards to rubber ringed joint to reduce costs and it’s life expectancy 70years but the pipe with epoxy coatings has a life expectancy of 200years go figure glad I retired. No one looks at the long picture anymore I’ll get on computer and finish with photo peter T

No this is in Australia, but 40 plus years ago was the same practice in UK. its not a bodge a patch large enough to cover any eras less is welded on could be a half pipe repair once it’s dry. It’s only a bodge if it’s found out, classic car parlance. after repair a stack of sacrificial anodes are attached to arrest any further corrosion if practical CP protection would be installed provided the pipe was fully welded no lead joints. you should see a welded top hat section which is circumferential over a lead joint to stop future leaks from the lead joint. cast iron pipes cannot be repaired a section has to be removed and replaced CI cracks and blows a section/piece out it doesn’t perforate. thats today’s lesson Peter T

in the pic there's a digger next door, digging a hole put us out of our misery give the operator $20 to bury it so it stops offending the Triumph name! Peter T

Thanks Colin it’s always better when there’s a picture. There’s a tremendous force due to the tight turning circle of the Herald/Vitesse steering. we put a sacrificial seats on a 900 mm dia double jaw alligator valve (like a mouth and jaw) we bolted the seat on with S/S bolts they fatigued in 3months and the seats fell off. Peter T

John that's how you fix large steel transfer water mains still in service depending on the size of the rust hole drive in the appropriately sized softwood tapered turned peg (I have one 4in dia I've kept since I retired & threatened to use it on my replacements if they bugger the system up) till it grips the ragged edges of the hole then seal any water leaking with smaller pegs till dry, then cut the surplus timber off and then plate over with a 8mm thick welded patch. We used to do around 180 repairs annually wet, ie a fully charged main up to 7ft dia, only around 5 reqd a mains shut down & dewatering, now the softies are lucky if they do 1/3 wet, they blame OHS their just wimps!! Next they'll want carpet in the excavation holes there've got safety shields what more do they want! When I rebuilt my Mk2 Vitesse, after transferring the rotoflex brake guide bracket onto the old but very good convertible rear tub, the replacing of the cable was a b*** pain as I couldn't get the proper cable and ended up with one a couple of inches short?? (no Vitesse spares in Aus) so I had to extend the cable length at the wheel end by shortening the threaded length then using short threaded barrel nipples and a length of threaded bar to fit the square bolt into the yoke. I did both sides & I used lock nuts on the barrel nipple to ensure nothing will come loose. Looks good works well, handbrake appears to work better than original. Peter T