Peter Truman

Pete by gently heating the uPVC pipe with a torch you can bend the pipe, not too much or you'll singe it. Ref the air inlet pipes I got a couple of 1mt lengths of original style spiral steel plastic covered about 1 mt long each from my local Jag service provider and used parts guy ex Mk2 Jag when getting the X serviced several years ago the pipes were the interior air pipes from the heater to the rear compartment, cost $5. Been a bit slack and just fitted them last week!! still got a few feet left. Re the bracket fitted to the radiator side I had had the original chromed, it didn't come up to well to much pitting so I made an aluminum one out of 1/8in ally suitably formed around uPVC pipe to get the double radius that holds both pipes. Peter T

Ref Pete's comment re quality of the lock lever I fitted mine on the Mk2 Vitesse around 1970 and there a substantial thickness. I fitted them for security before doing a UK tour of England, Scotland and Wales, with Canadian friends & also several European tours (wife worked for a tour co and we used to check the tours out, freebee's), the ones I purchased early norties for my daughters Spit ex UK are the same, so good quality ones are still available. I don't know if where you locate the lock makes a difference to their strength, mine are fitted as per instructions ie Canley style the lock located at the front and side of the catch, I have seen some with the lock above the catch? I don't think it makes any difference as there's the same leverage force required. I fitted the Spits locks as I had to apply too much force to hold the catch down and it seemed to distort the bonnet side panel! this was after cone replacement and adjustment. Peter T

Don't have the problem with the Vitesse, but the daughters Spit was bad only on the drivers side even after cone adjustment, yes they are worn. I suppose I could have had the Michelotti hook welded to restore its profile, I did have the body mounted lugs reprofiled with a little weld and filed it. I also fitted bonnet locks to cure the problem, and obviously improve security, that definitely fixed the bonnet coming loose, and we do have some really bumpy country roads here in Oz! the Vitesse was done too. Regards Peter T

I'm up now and found an AMI 12/50 Coupe photo, note chrome bumper over riders too. Heralds were CKD from Triumph which meant that they were supplied in individual body parts not sub assemblies, so AMI would have had to assemble the bonnet using a jig, like the rest of the body, the chassis was delivered as a completed assembly, as were the mechanicals.

My Mk2 Vitesse is fitted with an Australian 12/50 bonnet fits and looks perfect as they used the Vitesse twin headlight bonnet Ha! One of the few Advantages of owning a Vitesse in Australia. The AMI assembled 12/50 came in Coupe and Saloon form the Coupe with twin headlight bonnet looked good! Peter T

thanks for that answered all the questions re adapter plate. I brought on special a modified J type conversion prop shaft for the Vitesse from Rimmers eons ago if I go down the Single rail Dolly 1850 gearbox with J OD, into 3 rail box, I'll have to get that shortened by 1inch, but its a plan! Sidways Technologies interesting, a lot of knowledge & experience but also appears to be some deep baggage! You learn something everyday like Spirlock Snap Rings, in place of circlips Thanks again Peter T

interestingly Colin my trim looks different not sharp/straight cut at the end but it has no fixed clips but the pointy end (rear) looks like a clip might have been mounted there as its discoloured, the front ie nearest filler cap looks like a standard trim clip which will be pop riveted to the wing. Peter T

Chris I've sent you an email separately with ebay ref for Petrol Filler Neck Seal $29 locally with $9 postage from Vanguard Spares in Lillydale. The pic of the reverse light gasket is ex Bill very good quality, but a little steep! Regards Peter T

Chris just realized your talking on the outside of the car its a short bit of SS an extension of the piece from the door to fuel cap. It's only fitted to the Vitesse not the Heralds, they must be available ex UK doubt if you'll find one in Aus, but maybe ex NZ where the Vitesse was sold, try NZ Trade Me. Ref the filler cap seal I got mine here in Aus, I think $20 or so I'll contemplate and see if I can remember where! Peter T

I have previously successfully converted a Spit 1500 single rail internals into a 3 rail GT6 box case and attached a J Type overdrive for my daughters Spit Mk2. I used a Spit MkIV adapter plate 313085 and an additional 1inch adapter to accommodate the longer mainshaft RKC767, with the bigger input spigot. I have a Dolly 1850 single rail gearbox with J Type overdrive which I want to similarly covert to a 3 Rail box/case for my Mk2 Vitesse. I don't want to go down the route of using the SpitIV adapter plate 313085 and the more I look at the photos of 313085 and the Single Rail adapter RKC634 the gearbox case mating flange is similar except for its upper extension for the single rail selector rod. The circular overdrive mounting flange looks similar except for this selector rod extension, also could this upper hole for the selector rod be plugged and the later single rail adapter RKC634 be used on the 3 rail box conversion in place of the Spit IV adapter 313085 plus 1 inch annulus spacer. The extra width of RKC634 would also negate the need for the 1in spacer annulus. if the 3 rail gear selector arm and rod foul the top of RKC634 there is the possibility of plugging the top hole at the overdrive circular flange end and trimming back the unwanted top of RKC634 at the overdrive end. The gearbox mounting bolts of RKC634 and 313085 appear to be the same re number and location/alignment. I haven't seen any Spit MkIV adapters 313085 on ebay for a long time & I know Canley sell a J Type conversion of 313085 but it is expensive ( 98GBP plus overseas shipping), and I'd still need a 1inch adapter plate. I do have the J Type conversion new mainshaft TKC899 small tip & D Type overdrive adapter 305137 spare that I could sell to defray Canleys cost! I need to get both the RK634 & 313085 gaskets and check the various hole alignments and mounting bolt positions! Anyone have experience of such a modification for adapter plate RKC634. Regards Peter T

Chris I have one of Bills repo number plate moulded rubber gaskets and can give you a template of it, but the proper and repo has a raised edge around the outer edge to assist sealing. ref the AIR plate my August 68 Vitesse Mk2 which I have owned since 1970 doesn’t have one so early Mk2’s obviously didn’t have the Air plate just the switch! Peter T Melbourne

Some things just get bigger than Ben Hur, for a while I ran a Herald Rad in my daughters Spit Mk2 can't remember how I did it. It was obviously mounted by the bottom frame holes and top rad holes, it was close but worked. Eventually we switched to a cheap Aluminum rad & have never looked back, works even in Melbourne's very hot summers. I can get locally supplied Al Rad for a Spit from around $150, only 2 core. or if I went to a Al Rad specialist/manufacturer pay up to $600 to have a 3 core made, The cheap 2 core has been in there 15years,but why can't they make nice radius bends in alloy rads? they all seem to all be mitered straights looks Orrible!. Alternatively you could modify the top rad tank blanking off the rad cap hole and use a Spit 4 remote header tank with it's built in Rad cap, which could/would require an extra hole & pipe outlet in the header tank, or tap the thermostat cover where the boss is and fit it there or use the later remote saloon or Dolly type expansion tank with rad cap similarly connected into the thermostat cover. Me mum used to say "Peter never say it can't be done, can't ain't a word!" Peter T

Ref foreign part Pete suggested the copper planet gear thrust washer, well here's what came out of my Vitesse Mk2 when I did an overhaul, I would suggest it broke and turned out very early in the cars life as there was no apparent noise or slackness from the diff, but the rotaflex would have possibly covered a lot of ills. Note it was flattened out from the spherical shape as it turned out of its fitted place, I replaced it with an Aussie Holden similar part when reassembled. The hole is what I used to put on my spare set of car keys keyring just so I didn't loose it! Peter T

I've just got up and read the full discussion, what a quandary, with flippancy could I suggest put an overdrive in then the figures would nearly add up ie revs and speed, the revs should drop around a quarter! what is the engine noise like at the indicated 4000 rpm, at 3000 bearable at 4000 getting a little busy! & forget the radio. I know you tried a friends alternative mech tacho but do you have access to an elect tacho & temp wire it in to confirm revs, easy done. What other Brit cars used a mech tacho driven off the distributor as Pete says has it been switched? I recently converted a Spit Smiths Mech tacho instrument ($20 off fleabay) from mech to electronic with a cheap Chinese aftermarket tacho $10 delivered, hence keeping the face, needle and instrument correct, works great and I can switch between 4, 6 and 8 cylinders. I should buy a couple of spare elect drives! Peter T

In the late 70's on a long drive back from Phillip Is in 40C temp our 2599TC developed a very noisy rocker assembly on dismantling it was scored and some rockers lacked full movement, The cause was lack of oil, the little countersunk bolt/screw that hold/locates the rocker shaft had come out letting all the rocker oil to simply pump out draining straight back to the sump. I had to temporally rob the Vitesse Mk2's full assembly till I could rebuild the rockers! Ref the countersunk bolt fortunately it was too big to fall thro to the sump and had lodged against the rear push rod. My Mk2 Vitesse in the early 70's whilst still in the NE of England suddenly developed a top end "tap" I removed the head checked the push rods, removed the rocker assembly checked all OK, thought a valve might be sticking so gave each valve a tap on the top with the hammer to ensure they moved freely all appeared OK. Time dictated that I put it all back together, NO TAP! and that was nearly 50 years ago and I haven't removed the head again! was the fix luck or ignorance! Peter T

I second the comment re the poor quality of the fibreglass covers, I spent a lot of time re-moulding the mating flanges to get them flat & in the right sealing position. Th covers were UK supplied & shipped so NOT cheap. I would definitely go for the poly units, available locally here in Aus for $190A. I would change them to poly but I have spent too much time & $ installing/moulding the aluminum/bitumen heat sheets I can't remember problems cutting the holes in the fiberglass or chewing up the jigsaw blades, BUT I made a carbonfibre dash board for my daughters Spit Mk2 cutting the 2 big and 2 small instrument holes totally destroyed the cheap electric jig saw blades, I used 12 blades, the blades had no teeth left and were half the depth and cutting the round holes I wasn't going fast! Interestingly the tank hole cutters I used for the switch's & ignition fared a lot better. The same problem was experienced for the Oil, Voltmeter & cigar lighter mounted in a panel set into the radio hole.. Peter T

Just a hint I use an old Jubilee clamp tightened up on the pipe to ensure I get a square & straight cut. Doing it that way I can even use an electric recirc saw & still get a straight cut. Peter T

See attached photo of a Vitesse Mk2 publicity shot showing the rear suspension, the radius arms appear straight with mounting brackets offset, so I assume that means the GT6 are offset. Hope this helps, its too wet & cold tonight to go into the garage, grovel down & check! Peter T

Here's my special UJ home made grease nipple, I think I made it around 30yrs ago, yes its only 1/8in copper oil pressure pipe so obviously you have to be careful but hey its survived 4 Triumphs and a Jag XJ & it still gets used at least once a year on 3 Triumphs but only UJ's. Overall its 4cm long & the ends are just soft soldered on. Tightening up I use a small 1/4 socket just hand tight or a little nip up, every so often the stem gets bent but straightens up Ok till now!! Peter T

Colin L I'll bench test the oil can again with new refluxed nipples to see if the oil will flow through. Poppyman, Johny & Pete I'll ensure the ball is free by probing the nipple orifice with a straightened paperclip, but just the thought will bring tears to my eyes, being a sensitive type of guy! Grumpy aka Peter T

An extension on Pete Lewis comment on bulb alignment another issue is the actual lamp mounting into the lamp bowl esp dipped lamps. here in Vic Aus we run cars on what’s called a Club Permit which isn’t a registration but the owner has a permit to use the classic for 45 or 90 days per annum and whilst no annual roadworthy is required the club and owner are charged with checking the car is roadworthy. Our CP officer (senior police officer!) used to undertake random inspection when the club re-authorised the annual permit, he pinned a stag owner for his dip lights which were rotated out of position. lt appears some cheap Chinese lights have the lugs incorrectly positioned so when on dip they were actually high enough to dazzle oncoming drivers a new set of lights were purchased rather than cutting the mounting ring beware cheap Chinese aftermarket items peter T

Colin with your oil can, can you develop enough pressure to push oil through the grease nipple when oiling them trunnions, I have a similar oil can and I can't get the oil through the std nipple so I removed the ball & spring in the permanently fitted grease nipple and the oil flows easily then I just have some plastic caps (air vacumm seals)to seal the nipple off afterwards. I chose an oil can which was all steel with a brass/steel pump ie no plastic but still not enough pressure. to push thro an un-modified nipple. Peter T

Call me Stupid! When my daughters Spit had the Fuel Vaporization issues ie running badly & stalling before finding the float bowl issue I checked everything electrical & came to the realization that there was NO EARTH STRAP on the engine for 10 years at the time since 2001 that we'd had the car the engine had been earthing out through the choke cable! It now has TWO engine earth straps one at the timing cover to chassis and another from the upper bell housing to the body at the bulkhead. Marvellous what we blame PO's for! When I brought the Dolly Sprint from a friend who has restored many cars to concour, the horn didn't work, no earth wire at the horn! heater fan didn't work, no earth connection! heated rear window, similarly earth connection missing, rear tail lights intermittent , inadequate earthing, fixed with individual earths to each light! I was looking at his TR4 and similarly found a couple of missing earths, I now call him EARTHY as Dopey is already taken up by another club member! Oh by the way I'm Grumpy! In the late 90's my daughters Spit was restored by a Mech Eng, & he did a good job but obviously he only had metric taps and dies coarse thread too boot so sometimes you come across a rethreaded bolt or captive nut which isn't UNF it can be very frustrating, when I find them they get drilled and heli-coiled to the correct sized UNF, but I'm only a Civil Eng. Oh by the way re fuses the Spit has the std two fuses reduced to 25amp fast burn, but I have added an additional 6 point blade fuse box 3 battery and 3 ignition taking their power from the input side of the original fuse box and feeding some existing and new elect items. Similary the Vitesse has been done, but the Dolly (76 and still only 2 fuses??) maybe this summer. An English couple here in a local club who brought their Spit 1500 over to Aus when they immigrated has a multi fused system like the Stag but they fully rewired the car when rebuilding it in the UK, its mounted on the bulkhead behind the battery box, the fuse duty is clearly marked and it looks great. Peter T

Pete's a tenth Dan, who knows everything Triumph & by experience he knows it's going to hurt! A lot of my doctors visits have been Triumph related! cuts, burns, bruises, even scalping of the forehead! Good luck yours is only 12V, our first NEW house in Yorkshire still had power to everything with the fuses removed, NEEB (late 60's) were there in 20 min to investigate & rectify. I was going to wire in power and light to my garage so had removed the fuses to do the hook up! NEEB did it all for me including a separate fuse box in the garage, extra power points and lighting gratis. Peter T

I saw that too & am interested as to why/what the "SPECIAL" relates to? He states it's a Mk1 engine in a Mk2 GT6, I have a very early August 68 Vitesse Mk2, Eng No. HC502xxHE which is flat sided ie no bulges that I can see & feels flat with no strengthening rib at the bottom (my photo isn't too good), I also have a spare Mk2 Saloon 2000 engine MF58xxxHEP which has the bulges, see photos, presumably this was a common block with the bigger throw crank 2500 Mk2 engine. So why would a Mk1 GT6 (pre 68) engine have the bulges from the later Mk2 Saloon engine. & when did the Mk2 Vitesse and GT6 Mk2/3 get the later block. Peter T