Peter Truman

My daughters 66 Mk2 also missing interior lock but I fitted a external lock in the handle works fine stops the opportunistic thief and eddy mod to do,yes it’s a twist handledid it 20 yrs ago can’t remember the process peter T

Haven't looked at my old spare Stroms, I'm too far away anyway, but if the bush is brass or even steel could you apply/flow some solder onto its outside then rub back a little then drift bush in for a friction fit. I've used this method on other FIX's. Another option do the same as to hold a bearing on a shaft indent the outer surface of the bush so as it increases the outer dia locally where indented. Regards Peter T

My 68 Vitesse Mk2 has the engine mount on the front of the Turrent, original installation as the engine has never been out & I've had it since the car was 2yr old & knew the PO. Mind you after owning & working on Triumphs for over 50yrs I'm convinced Logic wasn't Triumphs strongpoint, it's a pity there aren't many Triumph engineers still alive to defend themselves! Mind you Triumph were saints compared to Jaguar!! Their engineers took a second degree in "How can we stop DIY" Regards Peter T

The adapter plate I used was a 3 Rail Mk4 J Type, Part No.313085 around 1.625in wide. I originally brought it to convert my Vitesse Mk2 to a J type overdrive using a Mike Papworth J type mainshaft TKC899 (small end to input shaft). How did I determine a 1in spacer, after assembling the single rail J Type OD internals into the Mk3 GT6 case with the adapter plate attached I couldn't get the OD to align and drop down mating with the gearbox main case there was always a 1in gap with the splines aligned! Also Canley advise the Spit Mk 4 with OD (J) has a propshaft of 38in verses the Spit 1500 with single rail box and J type OD of 37in. So a 1in spacer looked right when fitted the OD just slid down when the splines were aligned and everything rotated correctly. The single rail 1850 J type OD gearbox I have that I'm considering for the Vitesse Mk2 has a 2.125in wide adapter plate Part No. RKC634. With the Vitesse I'm be-twixt & between whether to convert my existing & original 3 Rail gearbox using adapter Plate 313085 , J Type mainshaft TKC899, & original bellhousing OR to use the stronger 1850 Single Rail J Type OD box & modify the bellhousing to take the single selector shaft. I must admit I prefer the 3 rail Box it looks more conventional. If I upgrade my existing 3 Rail Gearbox with a J Type OD I have a new Propshaft specially made for that set up that I purchased from Rimmers a couple of years ago. but I'll need another Spit Mk4 style J Type Adapter Plate 313085, unless the 3 Rail D Type Adapter Plate Part No. 305137 I have can be modified it's also 1.625in wide. More research reqd!!! The 1in spacer was made by a local machine shop here in Melbourne "Hardeman Bros" Industrial Gears, its a reasonably big concern & the principal lived a few doors up from us, it was cut from a piece of 1in Al plate. Another Part of the business makes MG B Splined wire wheel hubs, an overdrive conversion (US copy of the Laycock OD) for the Toyota Landcruiser, and a Toyota 4 pot Alloy caliper to convert/upgrade a Nissan Patrol. Regards Peter T

Teflon/ptfe pipes would be much easier to route along and thro the chassis outriggers esp if the body is attached, Ask how I know, I didn't put the pipes in until after I mounted the body on the Vitesse chassis, there's not a lot of space between the chassis & footwells. Remember if you use plastic/nylon type pipes you need an internal thimble/sleeve up the pipe where you fit the rubber hose and clip, the Teflon pipe will compress & leak with time if it isn't supported ie stopping it swaging in. Spits are gravity feed from the tank ie if you lower the hose at the engine mounted mech pump it continues to run by gravity where as the Herald/Vitesse sucks the fuel out of the tank thro the top ie won't drain (unless its created a syphon), ie the pump has to work /suck harder. Usual reticulated water pump specs have the suction one size larger than delivery, ie 6in suction and 4in delivery, pumps don't like sucking. I will someday convert all my Trumpies to elect fuel pumps located next to the fuel tank, so suction pipe is minimal and the long pipe length is on the delivery. Regards Peter T

Re modifying the Vitesse/GT6 Bellhousing when upgrading my daughters Mk2 Spit to a J Type OD I went the other way and put the Spit 1500 Single Rail Internals into a GT6 3 Rail Gearbox casing. Why because I had several 3 Rail Herald/Spit Alloy Bellhousings 1 early Herald thin walled type (see photo) and 2 later copies of the standard cast iron unit ie thicker construction. This conversion also had issues (reverse lever mods, extra washer in selector rod to stop selecting two gears simultaneously) as related in a the Courier mag last year see Spit1/2/3 Suzie Singleton column, as a teaser see attached photo of completed job! Note the extra 1in annulus spacer between the OD Adapter and OD as the 3 rail box (mainshaft) is 1in longer! Under the bench I have a Dolly 1850 Single Rail with J Type OD to convert for my Mk2 Vitesse, & I'm uncertain of which way to go , the 3 Rail using the std Vit/GT6 Bellhousing as per the Spit conversion above or use the Single Rail & modify the GT6 Bellhousing. I'll be extremely interested to see the photo's of the Bellhousing or Single Rail selector shaft capping? Regards Peter T

If there is that much corrosion I'd also be concerned about the Zamak pivot pin, where the shallow hole is in main body of lever, but that could be drilled out and tapped with a suitable bolt using the protruding bolt thread as the pin. Where the little broken offtake lever is the Zamak appears to be full thickness so could the offtake lever be removed & replaced in steel & riveted/tapped the Zamak could be relief filed down to make the lever flush. My mum used to tell me "there's no such word as can't". There's a real sense of achievement in making do & fixing something irrespective of how much buggering around and how long it takes. The whole thing could be copied using a bit of Al sq bar, with offtake lever riveted on! Yeh I know I'm just persistent, stubborn, and won't let something defeat me! Peter T

the ones you show are what I remember either the top hat type which I have on the Mk2, or curved S/S type. I'm assuming the other type I showed to be an earlier Conv version but that's just me thinking as I have a CKD Herald around 59/60 tub (old style chassis) which has a few different bits on it. It's eBay item No. is 323589083960 and described as fitting "Herald Conv Windscreen A Post area" Regards Peter T

Haven't done the Vitesse yet diaphragms OK but the foam, dunlopillow crumbling. Re replacement diaphragms on the Dolly Sprint I used 9in long heavy duty molded rubber bungee straps, 9 per seat 5 front to back and 4 side to side interlaced with each other, very firm. The hook end was opened a little & goes over the tubular set frame not in the hog clip hole, they don't appear to have moved on the frame the interlacing stops that. Cost wise worked out cheaper than the diaphragm and easier to fit!, purchased from our local Bunning (large chain hardware warehouse/store) here in OZ The temp fix until I worked out the bungee straps was two towels rolled up and jammed under the seat, quite comfortable actually. Peter T

This un-named old crusty item is for sale on eBay I presume it's the little fitting to hold the door sealing rubber/furflex at the top of the windscreen on the A pillar. This appears to be the RHS. The similar item I have had on previous Conv Heralds (66) & Vitesse (68) is a S/S or chromed Cap that fits over the end of the door seal and is screwed to the windscreen A post top, actually a rather flimsy and unattractive fitting. I assume the attached is off a early Herald Conv body, assuming my assumption re its use is right? It's a simple easy one piece pressing, compared to the later or aftermarket S/S Cap which may require the assembly of parts. Regards Peter T

I contacted the 2000/2500 Register and got all the info, Thanks Peter T

Thanks that's a logical explanation for SC Regards Peter T

A deceased friend has a 2000Mk2 Estate here in Australia, the body has been bare metal resprayed and it's resplendent BUT needs re-assembling. I'm trying to sell it for the widow and want to understand what the Commission Number ME39860SCO means; Prefix ME is a 2000Mk2, correct Suffix SCO??, I assume the O means overdrive, but SC? All the parts are there and many refurbished, its a manual overdrive model. Anyone want to ship it back to the UK??? Can anyone advise what SCO indicates? Regards Peter Truman

Thanks for the help Colin the one's I used were like those in your upper tray 4 LED's on the outside and one in top but with screw bayonets, hence too long for the Speedo but OK in other instruments incl Tacho, which I didn't find too hard to install the bulb. I do like the ones you showed and used and will check here in OZ with Mr LED, or I might try Hong Kong at cents per bulb with Free Postage, don't know how they do it!. Interestingly I've used LED's in my daughter's Spit in all the rear park, stop & turn lights since around 2005 and found them very good, I haven't had an issue with the flasher can, presumably because I didn't do the front. Think I'll try modern LED's to see if their any better/improvement. Re Speedo bulb "If only Triumph had made the dashboard ashtray aperture larger or fitted a Speaker Grill like the Dolly Sprint, life would have been so much easier! Thanks again Peter T

I've had my Vitesse Mk2 for 48yrs and replaced the Speedo head around 1972 I've just had to replace the speedo instrument bulb, what a bl***y job, everything is in the road. It took around 3hrs extended because I tried fitting a LED bulb but it wouldn't seat properly too long I presume so I reverted to a std 2.2W screw in bulb. I removed the Tacho to give more room and provide an access hole it helped a little BUT still difficult. I know my hands are big so trying to get around the steering column brackets was difficult. I thought about removing the speedo instrument but the clamps were too hard and the cable didn't want to move Can anyone advise the best method, and if there is a lack of clear internal space to fit a LED bulb as they extend about 3/8in beyond the bayonet. I've replaced ALL the other instrument bulbs with LED's with no issues so can the Speedo bulb also be replaced? regards Peter T

My Mk2 Vitesse still has its originals and there've got steel washer inserts, which ironically have rusted badly on the underside even after 44yrs in Australia & frequent oiling, so they obviously haven't leaked! If they do leak I'll file off the rolled seal to the washer on the brass Trunnion, do the dishwasher trick (ensuring WIFE absent) and solder in a copper coin of the realm suitably modified (sorry Eer Majesty), "Eer in doors" spat the dummy when I put the flywheel in the freezer and ring gear in the oven, hey it worked a treat. I must make sure the Aus Penny is not of that very rare 1930's era & year where their worth mega bucks! Peter T

Like yourselves I never understood the 3.27 diff on Switz cars seemed nuts for such a mountainous country! In the early 70's we did several European Tours in our Mk2 Vitesse, non O/D & the 3.89 was adequate, esp when traversing the St Goddard Pass & racing an Alfa coming down the Como side. When we got to Como brakes were stuffed virtually empty, and the anti roll bar had broken loose off the chassis. I put the car into a garage next to the hotel which happened to service RR to have the brakes refilled an bled and a new U bolt on the roll bar, when I picked the car up I was told NO COST we'll put it on the next Roller! Same trip I dropped a UJ trying too hard in the Tunnel at Monte Carlo, well it was a week after the GP! Now that did cost a 2.50GBP UJ cost 50. quid installed! Aah the good ole days when you could have fun! I must congratulate you all on the alternative method of removing the diff, well explained with good photo's that's what Forums are for, the benefit of ALL. Also the discussion re diff options. I have removed a diff from a Spit 1500 leaving the spring and diff rear in place just dropping the diff front and removing the input case and diff gears after undoing the drive shafts, worked well. Good to hear Marcus again his info was invaluable when I transferred the single rail internals into a 3 rail box with J type O/D for my daughters Spit Mk2, mind you his scotch accent made me read it several times before I understood it! Pic is around 1972 heading up the St Goddard Pass, her in doors was cold, it was warm in the car. Regards Peter Truman Regards Peter T

On your original Triumph brass impellor pumps when dismantled have you found the shaft corroded & possibly cavitated where it goes into the impellor before it goes into the seal. Like you I have rebuilt several original pumps, but on a couple I had to replace the shaft, using a SS bar suitably machined for woodruff keys and circlips. I was fortunate on one rebuild to buy an Australian NOS Repco Triumph Rebuild kit, purchased from the USA on Fleabay, how's that for coals to Newcastle! The kit had everything, seals, circlips woodruff key, bearings and spacers. The last rebuild I've still to finish the impellor seal was a general aftermarket part from the local bearing supplier, which needed a little trim (Dremmel) on the rear inside of the impellor to seat snugley, it came with a fixed non rotating running seal face (seat) too which I might machine into the pump body, not really necessary, but what the heck, it's all fun. Interestingly the shaft on this pump showed only minor signs of corrosion/cavitation., so the shaft wasn't replaced. A local Triumph service provider here in Melbourne was providing a rebuilt pump with a Nissan Impellor, which has a proper radiating impellor design, not the crude Triumph right angle upright fins. There is a thought to reduce cavitation in the pump the Triumph pump impellor fins should be cut vertically where it joins the pump impellor body, so there's a gap, Similarly there's a chap in the USA does something similar, impellor replacement, the cost of both of these modified units were about $200, You could go Davies Craig Electric Water Pump, easily done in the bottom radiator hose, complete with electronic controller. Can provide photos of one fitted to a Saloon if reqd. Regards Peter Truman

I know its 6 months ago but just trawling thro and found it! I have a 76 Dolly Sprint here in OZ and no problems the quarter light glass on both sides just pulled out & slotted back in easy I had to glue them in with a Silkaflex adhesive, won't come out now. Maybe its a Aussie heat thing that shrinks or does something to the rubber. Regards Peter T

When I converted my Mk2 Saloon to a Convertible using a proper Conv body Tub I had to transfer the handbrake guide assemblies from the saloon tub to the convertible tub if I remember correctly the cable was too short & more importantly too (bl+++y) difficult to feed the long threaded ends thro the guides. So I cut the threaded ends where it goes into the yoke leaving it long enough to fit a 1in long threaded barrel nipple with lock nuts on each end with a longer treaded bar anchoring into the yoke square bolt and enabling the handbrake adjustment. Works well with adequate adjustment but there again I don't often use a handbrake. I think the above is how and why I did the mods but it was some time ago. Regards Peter T

Thanks for the responses they were very helpful & have made me think of a pump/fan installation as promised photo's attached. Simple but effective the controller is on the back of the parcel shelf and controls both pump speed and fan Peter T

All very tight isn't it! a friend with a 2500TC hotted up to 180bhp at the REAR wheels has fitted a Davies Craig micro controlled Water Pump in the lower rad lower hose horizontally where it comes out of the rad. It's a very neat fix & the hoses insulate the pump vibrations no separate brackets needed. Might have a look at the Vitesse and see if there's enough horizontal space and go for broke pump & fan, as it removes the old mech pump complete providing a good increase in space. Will provide a photo of the 2500TC after reducing Mb. Peter T

I've always fitted Elect Rad Fans to our older classic cars the exception has always been my Mk2 Vitesse, the reason obviously the lack of space for either a pusher or sucker. I've researched the search options of various Triumph club sites including the TSSC Magazine Archives to no avail as to how best to do it & if there is adequate room. I don't like the option of ties through the radiator core & would rather use a frame attached to the outer rad supports. Can anyone give me advice and reference to any articles/threads on how to do the installation and size of fan used. I'll probably use an Australian Davies Craig fan there of good quality and hopefully I can get a club discount. Vitesse cooling is marginal especially in Australian summers with the mech fan on the crankshaft which at idle is relatively slow, besides which I've always wanted to do it! Regards Peter Truman

make sure you keep or get the springs with any replacement I found them hard to get the correct size and expensive to replace Peter T

We have a 66 Mk2, but in Vic, eons ago I found this Mk2 Handbook copy on the www. Also have a Mk3 if needed If there's an issue re size (4.8Mb) send your email address & I'll send to you direct Hope it helps Regards Peter T Spitfire Mk2 Handbook.pdf