Peter Truman

Colin when you say it’s non structural it takes the full force of the steering being transmitted to the vertical link to turn the car and on full lock could be substantial. I’m with Nick I wouldn’t use stainless could get brittle with stress’s transmitted if the head of the bolt is off could a grip wrench mole or similar be applied to the threaded end and heave. Alternatively a tap! on the arm might clear it from the vertical link and maybe the arm would clear and pull out from the arm I f it won’t pull through/out saw the bolt at the link to arm interface once the bond Between the link and arm is broken and loose. at worst replacement steering arms aren’t hard to get second hand peter T

Attached is a photo of my daughters Minilite replica wheels with our home made Triumph World hubcaps. The cap consists of a 45 or 50mm dia uPVC pressure pipe blank end which is slightly domed at the end, with the outside slightly turned down by bolting it into a drill chuck using a long bolt they were turned down just enough to fit the wheel hole, painted silver, and with the standard Aluminum Triumph World Logo badge bolted onto the domed end. For added security I put a narrow strip of the soft Velcro around the outside of the painted tube/blank end to ensure it was a tight push in fit. The wheels are Australian Superlite/Performance at the time made in South Aus, 13in dia, tyres are Michilin, which luckily we get free (son works there!) This was all done around 15 years ago Regards Peter T

I have a set of the Spit/GT6 oval hole wheels on my Vitesse Mk2, I brought a set of 5 wheels, 2/4.5in and 2/5 inch & 1/5.5in wheels from a fellow club member then had them re-rolled to straighten and remove any flange damage (Lindsey's frilly rim) then sandblasted and finally powder coated silver, initial purchase price was around $130. the finished cost about $700. They replaced a set of Australian Performance Minilite replica's 5.5in (trade) for $750. which I'd LOST to my daughters Mk2 Spit, they were purloined by her! Her original wheels were std Spit Mk2 steel wheels which had been widened to 5.5in, by what was called reversed rim ie Formula Ford style. I think the Spit oval holed wheels look great but the Minilites set the Spit off. Isn't there two different types of slots on Spit wheels? Peter T

Hate to admit it Pete I used a Scotch Lock as a temp measure, will fix with permanent double bullit connector in next week Knew I shouldn’t have but it was late and I wan’t to finish it up guilty as charged peter T

In 50 plus years haven’t had a solder joint fail but poorly crimped by garages yes and Triumphs own too even crimped and crimp sealed. Never had any luck with crimps sold by motor factors with their weak crimp tools and soft alloy connectors but I’ve never used a professional crimp tool the crimp connections are very open esp to the elements whereas it’s easy and neat to shrink sleeve a solder joint. too late in life now to retool for crimps and as solder works for me I’ll stick with them even the engine wires oil switch alternator where they flex a lot the solder jointed wires looks good after 40 years. I’m sticking with brass terminals and solder Joints they’ll see me out! Peter T

Looks like some ones played with it before is that blue elect tape or crimp connector (I hate them, I hate Em, I hate em!) I solder joints and connectors, that tells me if oxidation of the wire is an issue. Solder and shrink sleeve. I did a joint on daughters Spit the other day that I swore I'd never use one of those offtake connectors that shears thro the insulation as you snap/close it with the pliers. A temp fix to get a tell tale light working when the Elect Rad Fan comes on, either Auto or Manual. I'll permanently wire it back to the relay output now I know it all works. Ref LEDs I only use them on the rear tail and flashers, and with that set up the standard mechanical flasher works OK. Peter T

Colin looks good and what bling, chromed Timing Cover, Alloy front plate, is that an Alloy water pump housing, why not an alloy alternator spacer tube Is it still like that? Updating daughters Spit engine to 1500 and here in Aus oil cooler will be necessary, the comments re thermostat noted, hadn't thought about hanging btwn the rails but like what I see. have hit a couple of small roos in the past with Spit (they survived), bonnet needed a little beating, so I think there's enough metal in front, I've always thought of putting a plate under the front chassis rails to reduce turbulence from underneath in front of the radiator. Peter T

Ooh, I hope I haven't offended anyone but my recollections of Diesel weren't good when we retuned to the UK in the early 60's I used to walk from school to my dads offices in Stockton up the main drag to their heavy engineering works and the fumes from the trucks passing made my eyes water & the damage done to the buildings from the fumes always convinced me the outputs can't be good! I know it was eons ago but even today here in OZ you still get the occasional truck belching out, the other day I was following a near new 4X4 SUV which was belching the black exhaust smoke out, I'm told (Mac truck engineer) that a diesel engined vehicle can discharge the black stuff out for 5 secs after moving off. I must just be in the wrong place at the wrong time cause I seem to see a lot of it! Here too diesels are starting to get demonized gee they had a short acceptance time less than 15 years! Not convinced that hybrid or full electric is the current answer esp here in Oz with the long distances, their footprint and cost of battery replacement, I read somewhere aTesla battery renders the upgrade non economic. One of our Triumph Club members travels around 80 klm ea way to work he has a small petrol Merc, he frequently returns 4lt/100klm, Fortunately our petrol isn't as dear as yours (91ULP averages around $1.35/litre) & being retired now and covering only around 10,000klm/annum cost isn't an issue. Peter T

Yep up to now never had a diesel blonde moment but I too always check after filling, interesting because I would never have a diesel car I hate them, noisy, smelly things add blue, run them to clean the particulate filters all too much trouble! Eons ago a chap who worked for me invented a new type of water main under pressure ferrule tapping and insertion machine, he sold the rights to one of the big water main supply companies and with the profits brought a new top of the range Ford Falcon Fairmont Tickford for his wife. As usual on a Sunday being a good husband he took it down to fill it up, in the next bay at the garage there was a very pretty girl in short short hotpants and short everything else yep being too busy looking at the scenery he filled it up with diesel, he had to buy numerous petrol cans, drain it all out there, and refill with petrol, it cost him a bomb. He said it smoked for a week after and his wife commented on this but he kept mum only owing up years after. His wife was very easy to look at anyway! Immediately after the incident he converted the car to gas, & fitted a turbo, he was one of the first to successfully do this, all so he wouldn't fill up with diesel again. being a petrol head he took up drag racing and was quite successful. Peter T

would you go brass or plated steel. realistically the original steel ones have lasted 40 plus years so brass would appear a luxury. saying that I used brass on both Spit engines (Mk2 & 1500) I've rebuilt, mainly because a friend had a Champion box of various sized brass bucket core plugs. Here in Aus I recently brought 2 sets of plated steel bucket types for a Spit/Gt6 off local ebay NOS for $3ea set hey at that price what the heck & they were from a local motor factors so no postage, The set has a surplus number of plugs and a check of sizes shows they also do the 6 potter. If I don't use them some one in the club will have a use. Peter T

like iain I brought 2 new aftermarket diaphragms and was surprised how thick they were and they haven't settled smoothly without creases, but my pistons drop and stay on the bridge I haven't started the engine yet to see how they perform. Like Iain I've tossed the old ones they were gossamer thin and no tears, Bummer!. I too will be looking for OE to replace again, I brought the thick ones from a reputable supplier, I think having to pay the AUS Govt GST & import tax a second time pi++++ me off just as much! There's no QC on aftermarket these days Peter T

Pete I would use the TKC899 O/D small tip mainshaft with my existing original Vitesse Mk2 3 rail gearbox & attach the Dolly J type1850 O/D onto that. I'd have to get another Spit MkIV J type adapter, which are getting close to NLA though. Alternatively I'd have to pull my daughters Spit gearbox J type with Spit 1500 single rail sandwiched into a 3 rail remove it's MkIV adapter with additional spacer (won't go down well) and use the J type Dolly 1850 adapter on that box. a lot of work! I'll contemplate that and might wait till next winter. Regards Peter T

What a fantastic thread this topic has been I wish it had run a couple of years ago when I transposed a single rail internals into a GT6 3 rail case with J type addition. Yesterday I had a EUREKA moment realizing why I had to slog hell out of the 3 rail reverse idler lever, why because the sleeve on the singe rail was longer at 1.08in which put the idler gear further forward and hence the top of the lever backwards, happy now I understand why! The single rail I converted was probably a MG Midget box as I brought it attached to a Midget 1500 engine.. I'll have to read the post where it refers to the Midget & Marina box's were slightly different. Wouldn't it be great if there was a Triumph history of the development, changes and differences (& why) of the Spit, Herald, GT6, Vitesse, Dolomites, TR7, Midget & Marina box's Thanks everyone for your input, now to print out the whole thread with the T/Enthusiasts references attached and highlight what I'm interested in and keep for prosperity! I have a Single Rail Dolly 1850 J type box which I want to fit into a 3 Rail case for my Mk2 Vitesse, will be interested in what the internal spec is! Or do I just change the mainshaft in the existing Vit box and add J type, tempting! I have a new small nose OD mainshaft. Peter T

Somewhere in the previous posts on this thread there was comment re selecting 1st & reverse together, I put the single rail internals into a Vit/GT6 3 rail gearbox case, a couple of issues I had were The reverse selector lever (106254) wouldn't engage the reverse actuator (147394), serious realignment of the reverse operating lever (106254) was necessary as recommended by I think Marcus, after some serious bashing (2.7lb small sledge ex TVCWB Water Board in the NE of England 50yrs ago!) more than I was prepared to impale on the lever so I drilled & half cut thro lever and aligned it with the actuator then welded the lever up to make whole & strong again! The second issue was I selected both reverse and 1st together! In the norties when I first looked at this conversion and incorporating a J type O/D, I think it was John Kipping (by then living in NZ) responded advising to watch out and ensure I installed the washer (158585) in the reverse actuator shaft/rail as per 4 syncro Spit IV 3 rail gearbox (see Canley's MkIV gearbox drawing) or I would select both gears together. This washer is NLA by the usual suspects & I found mine ex USA, in reality it is no different to a std thin washer but I paid around $25 to buy and post to Aus, but at least I now knew what it was like! I also replaced the reverse idler (single rail) which was 21 teeth from the same US supplier. It's been a while now since I did the conversion so I hope I've got my facts right as I think Pete L says age dims the memory! Regards Peter T

fungus what a great job of protecting the chassis you've done both inside and out, congratulations Peter T

I'm looking for info ie dimensions of the angle trim that connects the convertible rear seat side trim to the seat rear squab part numbers 609634 LH side and 609634 RHS. I need to know the section size of the light weight sheet metal angle, its length & angle between the two angle legs. It appears to be greater than 90degrees. Hoping someone has a spare they can measure , I'm assuming that their both the same except for the hole locations for the body clips Regards Peter T

Chris did you get the emailed photo of my bracket and the 3 section drawing of it with dimensions & the 10 degree skew of the short leg can attach to forum if reqd. Peter T Melb Aus

Pete I agree re the structural limitations of the ACME threaded spire nutted screws! Having said that I fitted an early convertible rear tub (Aus CKD kit) to the rear of my saloon, and the front seat mountings were ACME style screws with welded spire speedie nuts at the front and clip in spire speedie nuts in the rear floor plinths. needless to say I replaced them with bolts, nuts and heavy washers. Colin I have some spare coach/Speede or ACME style screws esp the front rear tub joint your welcome to. I don't think there a true ACME which having a coarse thread has a flat apex/top and root of the thread, the screws I have and used at the rear side valences look like ACME screws, photo supplied if reqd. regards Peter T

it's daylight now been to the garage the Motorbike fairing repair kit is "Plastex Plastic Repair Kit" info as attached. Regards Peter T

agree with removing the nylon off the arm but have you tried JB Weld takes time to set but very good, and provided you have a mold assembly it can be built up, can be drilled and tapped when set or filed so sets hard. If I'm really in trouble I've used a motor bike fairing two pak repair kit, its great small packet and expensive ($80 here) repaired my sons Alfa interior door handle assembly with it and it lasted years, comes with a molding compound too which is reusable I'll look up the name when its daylight and I go in the garage. Peter T

My 68 Vitesse had some small bags of Rockwell in the door and I’ve owned it since 70 so it must have been fitted during construction. It did cause a small rust area under the door handle where outer skin folded over the frame only 1/8in wide and 3/4in long other than that door in great condition i hate that bagged Rockwell if needed I’d replace with dynamat or similar (spell check changed dynamat to dynamite!) Peter T

If I was in the UK maybe an option but here in Oz it would cost more than $100 to deliver, but as you said not as much fun as DIY. The one I'm fixing is 2nd hand ex Herald from West Aus came with the later style slightly thicker alloy Spit Bellhousing (same casting as the CI one), 3 rail, both for $25 delivered, eat your hearts out so there's some advantage living in the antipodes. I think the main issue is the variation in dia of the nylon spherical balls of the 4 new ones I have there's 1.5mm difference in diameter, hence a couple nearly fall through, one has a real big casting or machine flash on the max dia but whilst it works ok it is quite notchy in op, and if I reprofile it will be too slack! I'm out of the woods for now and will search for a thin alloy or SS sleeve to fit into the socket like the other one I did, cheap and effective. just got to remember where I grabbed it from and what it was off! Aah old age you can see everything but can't put a finger on it! Peter T

As a temp fix whilst I contemplate how to sleeve the remote selector arm female socket I’ve heat shrunk a thin semi rigid plastic cover onto the male spherical ball so as to make it oversized hence it won’t push through. the heat shrink I used was not insulation style but from my old Radio Control days and is thin and feels quite rigid, but it’s only temp, it also is quite slippery so lubricate Its a temp fix moves easily doesn’t push through and all gears easily selected. Might talk to my old work colleagues M&E to see what options there are for a permanent poly style shrink sleeve Peter T

ref Pete's suggestion of casting up a chemimetal spherical ball in and to match the worn socket, should the new chemimetal truncated sphere flat top be cast level with the top of the socket, or a bit below and if so how much. As an alternative I was wondering if I cleaned the socket to bare metal and sprayed Teflon onto the socket face with several coats let it harden and see if that takes up the slack (wear). I know friends swear by JB Weld but trying the get the hemi-spherical profile back on the socket would be virtually impossible. Regards Peter t

Now there’s a thought, everything is restorable been thinking of getting a 3D printer but the daughter wants to build one as the usual suspects are of limited output size shes got all the 3D movements sorted for a 300 cube but it’s taking time Racking my brain trying to remember where I got the S/S from I will have picked it up from one of our WAter Supply plant upgrades ver the years thanks for the thoughts peter T