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White rubber bumpers


jagnut66

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Hi, 

I have some replacement white rubber (finishers? covers?) to renew the old and splitting white rubber sections on top of my Heralds bumpers.

Before I make a start, I didn't notice any special clips advertised with the new rubber sections, so do the just prise / lever off the retaining metal channels / lips or are there some hidden clips i need to watch for / try and salvage?

I will first unscrew the stainless end caps of course.

Many thanks for any help / advice.

Mike.

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No other clips, just the retaining channels. They’re a bit of a pain to get on, but I used some tyre lubricant and a door trim clip tool to pull the bottom lip over the channel. Screwfix heavy duty degreaser is good for removing the inevitable greasy finger marks afterwards  image.jpeg.ae124b35368e7386512bdadf31504451.jpeg

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3103B74E-E80A-46F0-A397-A1F8D6BBBDDC.jpeg

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I use Waxoyl as a lubricant, helps prevent rust in behind, too. My usual method is to set the bumper section on top of the relevant area of the valence bracket, then press down with one hand and 'peel' the lower lip over the underside with fingertips or whatever won't remove paint.

Be good to those end caps, new ones are a bother to fit.

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Well, taking one section at a time I tore off the old rubber -- literally, it has the consistency of thick card -- and then cleaned up the runners.

The passenger side wasn't too rusty but the rear (below the boot lid) was a bit 'lacy' in places, anyway much scraping and cleaning out of old muck later I treated the channels and the front of the runners to a dose of waxoil. I then did the same to grooves in the new rubber. It all looked pretty straightforward at that point.

A few hours later and those are the only two sections that I have (just) completed. It took quite an effort to get them on. 

That said, they do look allot better now they are 'degreased' and cleaned up. I also replaced my rear over-rider on the passenger side, which wasn't much fun, as the petrol tank is in the way of direct access to the bolt heads and I wasn't removing that again in a hurry. The new one is secured by the top bolt only for now, it is tight and secure, I simply couldn't get the bottom bolt to thread in, despite it winding in easily off the car. I think it's a nut alignment issue. It's all well copper greased and waxoiled for now, so I'll have another go, another day.

Best wishes,

Mike.

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2 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:

mine had been fitted with wing nuts  , you could if needed  flip them over and spin em off 

That does seem like a good idea, threaded bar, going through the captive nut, with a nut / washer either side to hold it in place, push it back through the metal tube and into place and then spin a wing nut and washer on, on the inside by the petrol tank. Done tight enough to hold it in place but not so tight as you can't break the lock and spin it back off again. 

Plus my other favourite ingredient..... lashings of copper grease!.....😃

I shall give this serious consideration.

6 hours ago, Neil Clark said:

You'll get there, but for hours (for me) it seemed like one of those puzzles that are illogical.

Yes, I've even centralised the captive nut, hit the retaining case with the chisel like side of a large cross pein hammer, just hard enough to fix the nut in place, added plenty of copper grease, threaded the bolt through it successfully off the car (to make sure the thread itself was okay) but when it's in place on the car will the thread bite, will it hell!! Like you I spent (wasted?) loads of time trying to get the bolt in.........

What's the emoji for frustration / tearing (what's left of) my hair out? LOL

Best wishes,

Mike.

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I spoke to Will at Moss who suggested I try a longer bolt.  The Moss website for the Spitfire shows entirely the wrong bolt and length anyway, so Will found it was actually supposed to be 2 inches which I could not get to bite.  I bought 2 1/4 inch and 2 1/2 inch bolts and armed myself with plenty of packing spacers and washers then it worked.

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Well the new rubbers are on but the removal of the old ones from the front valence revealed that it's in a bit of a sad state.

It's covered up again for now but I will need to replace this in due course.

Fortunately I believe it bolts on, so not a major job, unless someone's about to inform me otherwise.......... 

So if anyone out there reading this has a spare front valence, in reasonable condition with decent channels for the fitment of the white rubbers, for a Herald 1200 / 1250, I would be very interested.

Thanks and best wishes,

Mike.

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1 hour ago, MK2 Ed said:

Mark is fairly active on Facebook as well (if you use it) It helps him if you deal with him directly as eBay and the rest such up a lot of money for not doing much....

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