1973 GT6 Steering Geometry/Camber

[Loggot]

Hi Does anyone have the correct front wheel camber angle data and the front & rear wheel toe in/out settings for a 1973 GT6 please?

Also, are the settings laden or unladen.

There appears to be conflicting data in the manuals I've looked in!

While I'm at it, same applies to tyre pressures - any views for 155 x 13 tyres?

Thanks in advance.

[dougbgt6]

I always believe Haynes. These are unladen and are for late mk3 after KE20001, earlier are different which may be what is causing confusion. I keep my tyres at 30.

 

Toe in, Front 1/16 to 1/8 inch  Rear 1/32 to 3/32 inch

 

Camber, Front 2 & 3/4 degrees +/- 1 degree  Rear -1 degree +/- 1 degree

 

Castor angle 3 & 1/2 degrees +/- 1 degree

[Casper]

I assume that's the swing spring.

My record show:

Front camber:  2.75 deg pos  (most would wish less positive, or slight negative).

Front castor   4 deg

Toe will be about 0 - 1/16"

Rear toe 0 - 1/16"

 

I don't know where I got that from but it will be about right.  It's the same as the Mk 2/early Mk 3.  The main issue is balance l/right, eyc.

 

All measurements laden.  150 lb (if i remember correctly), each seat

 

C.

[Pete Lewis]

manual from club shop on the christmas wish list sounds a  plan in need.

 

wsm shows all GT6 155x13 as 24 psi front and rear  

 

Pete

[dougbgt6]

um.....my wsm says tyres 20 on the front and 24 on the rear however that's far to soft for modern tyres. I've read elsewhere that 28 all round is optimum but I prefer 30.

 

Also, Casper, mk2 and early mk3 are NOT the same as late mk3. As Pete says Haynes workshop manuals all round for Christmas!

[Cookie]

 

 

when I had the 4 wheel alignment checked on my GT6 I took a print out from the official factory workshop manual, always go by the official Triumph manual data, never trust Haynes or other 3rd party publications as they may or may not be right. A genuine manual is a must if you own a classic car and a sound investment and the Vitesse/GT6 manual is readily available reprinted in paper back form so no excuse for not splashing out on one.

 

[Pete Lewis]

Im a believer if factory wsm , most basic data is there by model year,

triumph do have a habit of always leaving the one definitive clue out.

club shop sell the re prints manuals

 

pete

[dougbgt6]

Just to clear up any uncertainty what's in the Haynes manual is exactly the same as unladen, table 1, isn't it? Or am I missing something?

[Cookie]

Yes in this case, but as a principle never trust the 3rd party publications as they are incorrect sometimes....

 

Triumph regularly updated theirs by sending out addendums to the dealerships which is why the originals were in ring binders, the addendums had the changed or additional pages with instructions of what to discard. The paperback versions are after the cars had finished production so are complete with the latest addendum incorporated.

[Loggot]

Hi All,

Thanks very much for the responses.

Much appreciated.

The varying views illustrate exactly what I was coming up against.

[Clive]

My 2p here. A recent setup will use the factory castor and toe settings from the wsm in cookies post above. On the front 1-2 degrees of negative camber helps cornering and certainly the car will look more purposeful. At the rear the camber is not adjustable (well, a saggy spring or using a lowering block works, but no actual adjustment)

 

However, making sure the suspension is correctly settled and the figures are correctly applied for Lauren or unlaiden is vital.

[JohnD]

Front camber may be as the Factory setting, but that is a totally Moveable Feaste.

Better, adjust to your driving style, and/or how you wear out your tyres.

A tyre depth gauge will show you how that's happening, across the tread, inside to outside.

Assuming that you have the tyre pressures right too, it should be even.

 

Toe in at the back is critical for straightline stability, and here factory settings are best!

 

John