DJB350Z Posted January 8, 2023 Author Report Share Posted January 8, 2023 Also been trying to cheer up a previous repair to PO made to the B Pillar assembly. Luckily the filler wasn't hiding anything nasty. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJB350Z Posted January 8, 2023 Author Report Share Posted January 8, 2023 Engine wise things have stalled a bit. I was waiting for delivery of some powder coated engine mount brackets I managed to pick up from ebay. But now I'm thinking about sourcing some poly mounts for them if they exist. I guess TR5/6/saloon/GT6 are interchangeable. I fitted the timing gear, cover, crank pulley and some other bits with new stainless replacements. I probably won't do anything more with it until it gets warmer, but plan to sort out some electronic ignition to go inside the original dizzy. The rocker cover is on but only temporarily until its running and I'll sort something prettier. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted January 8, 2023 Report Share Posted January 8, 2023 25 minutes ago, DJB350Z said: I guess TR5/6/saloon/GT6 are interchangeable. no saloon and Gt/Vitesse very different as slaoon variants are front eng plate mounted and the Vit/GT are crankcase mounted pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJB350Z Posted January 8, 2023 Author Report Share Posted January 8, 2023 Thanks for the tip. Do you know know of a supplier of poly mounts for a GT6? I thought I found somewhere and they were about £60 for the pair but I can't remember where now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted January 8, 2023 Report Share Posted January 8, 2023 i did look at super flex but none listed Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gully Posted January 9, 2023 Report Share Posted January 9, 2023 Be careful with the length of those rocker cover studs. The front one should be shorter so it doesn't foul the bonnet. In fact, they all look longer than mine! Gully Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Foster Posted January 9, 2023 Report Share Posted January 9, 2023 Front one should actually be a bolt, rather than a stud washer and nut. Ian 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJB350Z Posted January 9, 2023 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2023 28 minutes ago, Gully said: Be careful with the length of those rocker cover studs. The front one should be shorter so it doesn't foul the bonnet. In fact, they all look longer than mine! Gully That's a good shout. When I put that cover on they seemed longer than what I'd seen in pictures. IIRC they're not all the same length either.. I'll address it when I get around to actually fitting the engine (with the bonnet off initially). There will be a lot of fettling going on so I'll leave a chrome cover to the very end, like a cherry on top. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted January 9, 2023 Report Share Posted January 9, 2023 3 hours ago, DJB350Z said: I'll leave a chrome cover to the very end, like a cherry on top. if thats a chromed steel RC fine if you mean an Alloy take great care many will foul the GT6 bonnet Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJB350Z Posted January 9, 2023 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2023 34 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said: if thats a chromed steel RC fine if you mean an Alloy take great care many will foul the GT6 bonnet Pete Hadn't gotten into the details of that. So maybe best to get my original one rechromed then. Interesting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJB350Z Posted January 9, 2023 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2023 Question. Are these 4 holes on the rear of the B post supposed to be clear? On both LH and RH sides the top hole has been plugged. Not sure why.. and the glass + frames are wrapped up well in the deep dark depths of my loft so not easy to get to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted January 9, 2023 Report Share Posted January 9, 2023 alloy RC on a Mk3 are the No No problem model for bonnet fouling the others are ....Very Close Pete 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJB350Z Posted January 9, 2023 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2023 2 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said: alloy RC on a Mk3 are the No No problem model for bonnet fouling the others are ....Very Close Pete Probably explains the paint chips on the inside centre of my bonnet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gully Posted January 9, 2023 Report Share Posted January 9, 2023 3 hours ago, DJB350Z said: Question. Are these 4 holes on the rear of the B post supposed to be clear? On both LH and RH sides the top hole has been plugged. Not sure why.. and the glass + frames are wrapped up well in the deep dark depths of my loft so not easy to get to. Looking at mine, there are 4 fixings for the quaterlight and frame, so the top one should be clear as well as the other 3. Gully Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrishawley Posted January 9, 2023 Report Share Posted January 9, 2023 Yup, 4 holes 'tis meant to be. But it's commonplace that the nub of a blind rivet gets left behind when the QLs are being removed. Touch will a drill and it'll be gone. It's well worth doing a trial fitment of the QLs early in the restoration process lest the holes be misaligned or have become oversized. There's quite a knack to fitting the QLs such that the adjacent paint doesn't get chipped so a practice session 'in the rough' can be worthwhile. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJB350Z Posted January 9, 2023 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2023 Thanks for the confirmation. Yes, it looks like a left over rivet or something so will drill it out gently tomorrow. The other holes look uniform but will take your advice and do a trial fit though would it be wise to do so with the rubbers? I may or may not have the originals, but was planning to buy new anyway - just not right now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrishawley Posted January 9, 2023 Report Share Posted January 9, 2023 1 hour ago, DJB350Z said: would it be wise to do so with the rubbers? Not quite as problematic as the frame itself can be, but probably a good idea nonetheless. I think original seals are very scarce so it might be a case of of adapting an appropraite 'generic' seal (e.g. from COH Baines). 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Foster Posted January 10, 2023 Report Share Posted January 10, 2023 On 09/01/2023 at 10:13, DJB350Z said: I'll leave a chrome cover to the very end, like a cherry on top. Don't know how concerned you are about originality, but technically only the Mk1 GT6 had a chromed rocker cover. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJB350Z Posted January 10, 2023 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2023 23 minutes ago, Ian Foster said: Don't know how concerned you are about originality, but technically only the Mk1 GT6 had a chromed rocker cover. It's a concern I'm sensitive to but I'm happy to make exceptions to the rule areas I think aesthetically or functionally it makes sense. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJB350Z Posted January 10, 2023 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2023 15 hours ago, chrishawley said: Not quite as problematic as the frame itself can be, but probably a good idea nonetheless. I think original seals are very scarce so it might be a case of of adapting an appropraite 'generic' seal (e.g. from COH Baines). Convinced myself to drag the box of seals I have from their cave to discover that I don't have those specific ones. 🙃 Good news is that after drilling out a couple of holes all 4 line up with the bracket and once properly fixed I should get a slim, but hopefully acceptable clearance all the way around. Not looking forward to doing that once painted though! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJB350Z Posted January 11, 2023 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2023 After sanding the intricate shapes of the bulkhead I was keen to get to some of the bigger panels, so today I got a few hours free and I started sanding the rear arch quarter light area back to metal. I found sanding with a block by hand to be more effective than my orbital sander. The sander is almost so good it clogs quite quickly even at a slower speed and a vacuum attached. The former is of course harder work but I'm pleased how it's going and I'm learning which tools and grades of paper work best for each. A long way to go still but I have to remember it's a marathon, not a sprint! The car cover adjacent to the GT6 causes a lot of red reflection against the bare metal in the photos sadly. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jase1969 Posted January 12, 2023 Report Share Posted January 12, 2023 I'd get a grinder on the paintwork with the appropriate removal wheel on it, it will save you a lot of time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJB350Z Posted January 13, 2023 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2023 7 hours ago, Jase1969 said: I'd get a grinder on the paintwork with the appropriate removal wheel on it, it will save you a lot of time. I've got one and it's quite aggressive so I've been using it sparingly so I don't bite deeply into the metal beneath paint. The paint on the bonnet is quite thick though so I'll make most use of it there I think. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jase1969 Posted January 13, 2023 Report Share Posted January 13, 2023 44 minutes ago, DJB350Z said: I've got one and it's quite aggressive so I've been using it sparingly so I don't bite deeply into the metal beneath paint. The paint on the bonnet is quite thick though so I'll make most use of it there I think. You do need to be careful but I found the plastic wheels a lot better, I used a sanding disc on one of my doors and had to finish off with some filler but it didn't take long. Restoration looks fantastic, keep up the good work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJB350Z Posted January 13, 2023 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2023 26 minutes ago, Jase1969 said: You do need to be careful but I found the plastic wheels a lot better, I used a sanding disc on one of my doors and had to finish off with some filler but it didn't take long. Restoration looks fantastic, keep up the good work. Do you mean these? https://www.toolstation.com/abracs-poly-abrasive-disc/p22693 I bought a few as well but haven't been brave enough to use one yet. Maybe I'll give it a shot today if it is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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