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Engine Front Plate 1147cc


Neil Clark

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At some point in its history the right side "wing" of the engine front plate has been bent rearwards.  Perhaps during the crash.  I did not realise that it was wrong but the new right side engine mount is already showing signs of strain.  No leaks anywhere.  Can it be straightened in place, perhaps with some heat and a thump?  Or must the engine come out?  Thanksimage.thumb.jpeg.46abeefd7b1991f6196cc219769c5172.jpeg

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My brother's old Mk2 also had a bent engine front plate, as a result of a major shunt (the chassis was also buckled). In his case, we got away with fitting the engine mount behind the upright on that side, leaving the other one in the correct position in front of the upright. I see from your photo that you've already done that, though?

I'm not sure how feasible it would be to straighten it in situ. It will take a really big wallop to make any difference, and you don't have anything forcing it to bend at the right point. When the damage was done, the block acted like a bender plate. Trying to undo that while fitted is likely to break the gasket seal at best.

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1 hour ago, NonMember said:

I see from your photo that you've already done that, though?

Yes, done that.  Thought it was correct when i did it because it just slotted in!  The engine doesn't vibrate when I look at it stationary and rev it.  But I'm getting a vibration setting in above 40-45mph and wonder if the plate bend is contributing to a strain through the drive train?  The immediate wear on brand new engine mounts makes me suspicious.  The gearbox mounts are new but I remember when fitting them in the new chassis that they didn't just slot in quite as easily.  Perhaps the front plate bend has made the gearbox tail be offset a tiny amount?  

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Im afraid rapid wear of new engine and gearbox mounts is not unusual on many cars as replacement rubber components in particular can now be very poor quality. Wouldnt have thought your vibration is down to the damage but more like propshaft out of balance although I suppose that could be amplified by the other problems...

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My daughters Mk2 Spit had a  vibration I replaced all UJ’s still no better so I had the prop shaft balanced twice then gave up and had a new prop shaft made by Hardy Spicer locally here in Melb that was 18 years ago and it still works great no unreasonable vibration for a 57 year old car you can drive it all day!

I have a rebuilt 1500 engine as a spare that I had to have the front plate straightened as it was bent exactly the same as yours a local steel fabricator put it in a hydraulic press using the pointy part of a V beam on the full length of the bend.

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1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said:

rather than a whack have you thought about a serious leverage with something of a decent length  like a bit of 3x 2 timber  etc. and agree it might make the front plate leak 

Pete  

Knowing my cack handedness mine would leak Pete!  Prop shaft I would be happy to change myself, far less keen to strip the front of the engine myself.

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2 minutes ago, johny said:

pack the mount so it isnt trying to twist the engine at all, balance the prop, have hypnosis to forget about the plate and drive👍

Love it!  My diff is the later swing axle type and the prop splined end fits as shown.  Any observations on balancing or a replacement etc please?image.thumb.jpeg.ce472275532296fb0e1426f0f959d387.jpeg

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38 minutes ago, johny said:

I take it the prop u/js are pretty new and theres minimal play in the sliding joint? If so then its worth having it balanced/straightened rather than buying a replacement for about 150 + delivery...

I'll need to get it up in the air to look at that.

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1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said:

the telescope splines whilst they dont do much wear out to some awful sloppy fits 

well worth a serious look at 

there is a bailey/morris    Nr  hounslow   3 Dockwells Estate Central Way, Feltham TW14 0RX 

Home (propshaft-services.co.uk)

if you need any rework doing 

Pete

Yes, I'm in touch with them, they're the nearest to me and can balance and repair.  £66 to balance plus VAT plus any repairs if needed.  I remember now that they made the one-off prop for my kit car years ago, great service.  I'll have the prop out next week and take it from there.

Had a reply from Canley:-

From the factory the slider was towards the diff end. 
 
It's usually a worn slider, and or worn U/J's that give vibration.
 
New props come with a slider.
 
New props are complete with flanges,and ne U/J's 
 
new prop;

https://www.canleyclassics.com/?canvas=home&ptno=210508

 
If you have a round flange on the diff pinion, and 3/8" bolts on the flange that end then mention that when ordering as that's none standard.
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