AidanT Posted July 15, 2023 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2023 Question Do I need to use sealant on the gasket between the front plate and block? Just about to return and bolt the plate Aidan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted July 15, 2023 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2023 Sorry Also how do I tighten these and to what torque please? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted July 15, 2023 Report Share Posted July 15, 2023 The free to download Triumph workshop manual says they want to be torqued to 24 - 26 lb.ft and explains how to install the camchain which has to be in place before you put on the top sprocket. Also have you checked the condition and axial alignment of the chain and sprockets? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted July 15, 2023 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2023 (edited) Thanks, will check the red book As for alignment, as its the same crank, I'd assumed the same shims or lack of them in my case but I will check with a steel rule. Still a little confused how to avoid being 180 degrees out. I'm fitting ghe original marked sprockets so hoping to set the timing ok but any simple advice on avoiding the dreaded 180 out?? Tia Aidan Aidan Edited July 15, 2023 by AidanT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted July 15, 2023 Report Share Posted July 15, 2023 In your case its easy as youre reusing the sprockets but I think in the photo you may have the cam sprocket wrong by 180º. Theres a punch mark on the cam flange and this has to show in the hole next to the similar punch mark on the sprocket. Once youve got that sorted its just a case of installing the sprockets with chain so the other marks line up. Finally turn the crank in its normal rotation direction twice and confirm the sprocket marks have returned to correct alignment. If you havent removed the dizzy drive gear it will still be correctly set to the cam so the ignition timing wont have changed... Got to say though, how youre doing all this without first reading the manual is amazing😮 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted July 15, 2023 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2023 Ah, problem is its s new camshaft, well second hand new from a member here. It was previously used I believe so might still be marked Will add some pics tomorrow Thanks for the help I think my problem is I have too many manuals to work from!! Thanks Aidan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted July 15, 2023 Report Share Posted July 15, 2023 I think I can see the cam punch mark in the photo through the sprocket hole opposite the one where it should be. Might be an illusion and anyway if not sure you'll need to find the 'rocking point' of the cam for cylinder 1 as indicated in the manual if the marks are missing... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted July 15, 2023 Report Share Posted July 15, 2023 Just thought, as its a another cam you'll need to check its end-float and of course it makes confirming the sprockets axial alignment even more important... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted July 16, 2023 Report Share Posted July 16, 2023 I had a local spitty wit a horrendous & alarming noise at idle like the timing chain was sawing through the cover , all that was fine the racket was due to some plonker had centre popped the cam sprocket and this was on the mating face with the cam so whilst secured with the bolts it could chatter a quick buz with the Dremel and silence so be very careful of where anyone pop marks a sprocket i would make a piston stop and use a dial indicator to decide the cam lobe TDC to time the gears accurately Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted July 16, 2023 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2023 Just to advise, the head is not on yet, and I do have a gauge to find tdc I plan to do this bit very slowly following the works manual, and I just wanted to set it up so I'm not the 180 out in the first place. Aidan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted July 16, 2023 Report Share Posted July 16, 2023 Its just that to find the 'rocking point' of the cam (the point which corresponds to piston 1 compression TDC) its recommended to have the head on, tappets adjusted correctly and then turn the cam until valves 1 & 2 have equal tappet clearances.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted July 16, 2023 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2023 Hi Followed the manual to check the alignment ov the sprockets- looks good to me... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted July 16, 2023 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2023 Also sorted the 180 question quite simply tbh, before tdc the inlet valve opens, so I just turned the cam until the cam follower lifted then turned it further to align Just need to check this cam end float But another question I did put the cam sprocket back on to the cam using the exact same positioning ad I took it off so not turning it 90 degrees. Are all cam lobes aligned in the same way to the bolt holes in the front??? Aidan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted July 16, 2023 Report Share Posted July 16, 2023 Wait a minute, the inlet valve opens just before TDC exhaust/induction but the one you want is TDC compression/power which means 180º more rotation of the cam... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted July 16, 2023 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2023 (edited) 22 minutes ago, johny said: Wait a minute, the inlet valve opens just before TDC exhaust/induction but the one you want is TDC compression/power which means 180º more rotation of the cam... That's what I said of tried to! Cam lobe 2 if you like Inlet opens and closes the next time the line on the sprocket points toward the cam Edited July 16, 2023 by AidanT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted July 16, 2023 Report Share Posted July 16, 2023 Cam lobes 1 and 2 should look like this at crank TDC mark then all other cylinders will also be correct.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted July 16, 2023 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2023 Yep agree, just hhe way I put it and you were right, the pic of the sprocket yesterday was 180 out based on the marking of yhe cam behind!! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanMi Posted July 16, 2023 Report Share Posted July 16, 2023 (edited) the cam cannot be 180 out as it turns once for ever 2 turns of the crank. The dreaded 180 out is if you set the distributer drive cog with no4 at TDC with both valves shut rather than no 1. So if the cam is put on 180just turn the crank 360 and it will be correct Edited July 16, 2023 by DanMi Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted July 16, 2023 Report Share Posted July 16, 2023 (edited) Your right of course but if you want to set it up using its 'rocking point' and keep the alignment of the sprockets punch marks/lines you have to get the cam in the right position relative to its sprocket. The engine would still run perfectly with the cam installed 180º out to its sprocket but youd have a job finding the exact correct position for it (the sprocket can be bolted on in 4 different positions) and said punch marks/lines wouldnt then match.... Edited July 16, 2023 by johny Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanMi Posted July 16, 2023 Report Share Posted July 16, 2023 22 minutes ago, johny said: Your right of course but if you want to set it up using its 'rocking point' and keep the alignment of the sprockets punch marks/lines you have to get the cam in the right position relative to its sprocket. The engine would still run perfectly with the cam installed 180º out to its sprocket but youd have a job finding the exact correct position for it (the sprocket can be bolted on in 4 different positions) and said punch marks/lines wouldnt then match.... to be honest the punch marks are a rough guide, there is a good few degrees of movement just on the bolts ie the sprocket will turn a few degrees with the bolts in loosely. If you want to get it completely correct you need a couple of dial gauges or use feeler gauges and don't forget new sprockets don't have punch marks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted July 16, 2023 Report Share Posted July 16, 2023 yes and I reckon the rocking point method of getting the cam in the right position needs the 1 and 2 pushrods to be exactly the same length as otherwise the cam will be moved from the correct position to compensate the difference.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted July 16, 2023 Report Share Posted July 16, 2023 no I take that back because you should have already set those tappet gaps so I think any difference in pushrod length has been compensated for😊 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted July 16, 2023 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2023 I'll be using the 110 degree method - I have some brilliant notes on this method and have been told its more accurate Aidan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted July 16, 2023 Report Share Posted July 16, 2023 ooh tell us more? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted July 16, 2023 Report Share Posted July 16, 2023 If not a new chain and sprockets you might find flipping the cam sprocket for a quarter tooth change might align the marks slightly better and get even more power😍 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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