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Engine Rebuild re-start from 2020!


AidanT

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Hi all,

 

Well after a six month break which has turned into three years  the original post for has now gone. 

Yesterday I dusted off the block and have started the rebuild from the boxes and plastic bags of replacement parts and original parts.

I will be asking for all your guidance once more

Block rebuilt with pistons and new rings but not turned over for three years (Dry stored) Any precautions I should take to start with?

TIA

Aidan

 

 

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Plenty of oil, as the guys here say! My estate engine is the same, rebuilt over lockdown with new pistons etc but hardly rotated since, so I'll watch to see how your startup goes. I'll take the rocker off and pour oil over the rockers, plus down into the oil pump from above before replacing the dizzy which will be the final step. I reckon there'll be a goodly number of rotations by a socket on the cranknut or on the starter, before we try adding fuel. Let us know how things go.

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Hi again

Can someone please confirm the torques settings for the oil pump to block please - my search came up with two different answers

 

Thx

Edited by AidanT
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Sump says 16 - 18 lb.ft and they should maintain minimum of 8 lb.ft after a settling period (in other words the spring washers have to be good). No mention of the bolts that go into the aluminium bridge pieces and I reckon these should be the same to assure oil tightness...

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This is a strange one because I dont think a gasket was used on the mk1 six cylinder engine - I can only find it on Canley's drawing of the mk2 and is not mentioned in the workshop manual. This follows my own experience as when I tried to use the subsitute UKC8321 gaskets on my mk1 the aluminium bridge piece wouldnt sit flush with the base of the block and the sump gasket would never have sealed. In the end I just used a sealant and no gaskets....

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1 minute ago, johny said:

This is a strange one because I dont think a gasket was used on the mk1 six cylinder engine - I can only find it on Canley's drawing of the mk2 and is not mentioned in the workshop manual. This follows my own experience as when I tried to use the subsitute UKC8321 gaskets on my mk1 the aluminium bridge piece wouldnt sit flush with the base of the block and the sump gasket would never have sealed. In the end I just used a sealant and no gaskets....

Hi Johny - the engine I am working on is a Mk2  I was told that its a better engine so plumped for it as a sort of upgrade!!

 

Aidan

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Hi

Does anyone have or know of a step by step rebuild guide they could point me to please?

I've watched a few you tubes but am old fashioned and like a hard copy guide if at all possible. 

I do have a strip down one from Practical classics and have ALL the manuals but wondered if there was another that I could get my hands ️ on

One that gave a bolt by bolt rebuild with the torque settings included would be brilliant 

TIA.

Aidan

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1 hour ago, Colin Lindsay said:

If I remember rightly the Guide to Restoration by Lindsay Porter (now a Haynes edition?) has a section on engine stripdown and rebuild with plenty of photos.

This the one Colin?

https://www.wob.com/en-gb/books/lindsay-porter/triumph-spitfire-gt6-herald-vitesse/9780854295838

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On 09/07/2023 at 09:16, AidanT said:

Does anyone have or know of a step by step rebuild guide they could point me to please?

I've sourced a step by step rebuild from some backdated practical classics- it's on an SC engine and I know some of the torques mentioned will need double checking, but it's a good basis to work from

 

Aidan 

Edited by AidanT
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1 minute ago, Pete Lewis said:

with lots of production torque trials in the  80s we decided spring washers were waste of time 

Pete

 

Thanks Pete

I will keep with the originals then, if only for the appropriate spacing!

Aidan 

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