AidanT Posted July 16, 2023 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2023 So my notes: 110 degrees is far more accurate but requires that you print off atiming disc that is then placed centrally over the flywheel (or crank).Again while no.1 piston is at TDC rotate the cam until no.2 push rod isat maximum lift (measure with a dial gauge). The timing disc should beplaced so that it reads 0 and has a marker on the engine, you can usesome wire bent to indicate the number on the disc so long as it's in nodanger of moving. Now rotate the crank clockwise until it reads 110degrees after TDC. Attach timing chain and re-check your measurements. Aidan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted July 16, 2023 Report Share Posted July 16, 2023 Thanks, so setting it up on the induction stroke and I assume thats just for one particular type of cam? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanMi Posted July 17, 2023 Report Share Posted July 17, 2023 I used the equal lift at TDC method but instead of using feeler gauges I used 2 dial gauges. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted July 17, 2023 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2023 Hi - I believe this is general for all 6 cylinder engines Aidan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted July 17, 2023 Report Share Posted July 17, 2023 (edited) Or to get TDC you can use a piston stop (less than £10) that screws in the plug hole and rotate the crank forwards and backwards. Use a graduated disc fixed to the pulley and half way between is TDC. This method reduces any slight rotation variations trying the find TDC with a dial gauge. Advantage is it's simple to use! Iain Edited July 17, 2023 by Iain T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted July 21, 2023 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2023 More advice please I was going to use the original cylinder head studs as they came out cleanly On closer inspection I see that one has surface rust. Do I replace one or all? Thx Aidan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted July 21, 2023 Report Share Posted July 21, 2023 These are not like modern stretch studs so no problem replacing just one if you really think its cross section has been reduced enough by the rust to be weakened.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted July 21, 2023 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2023 (edited) 1 hour ago, johny said: These are not like modern stretch studs so no problem replacing just one if you really think its cross section has been reduced enough by the rust to be weakened.... Looks to be just surface only, what do you think?? (Not cleaned the threads yet!) Edited July 21, 2023 by AidanT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted July 21, 2023 Report Share Posted July 21, 2023 Yes Id use it again as none of the pitting looks to be deeper than the threads so theres still enough 'meat'... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted July 21, 2023 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2023 So now the big question- head gasket- dry, or with sealant??? And it's not a recessed head Aidan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted July 21, 2023 Report Share Posted July 21, 2023 Have you checked head and block with a straight edge? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted July 21, 2023 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2023 Both have been very slightly skimmed but I will double check Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted July 24, 2023 Report Share Posted July 24, 2023 (edited) composite gaskets are fitted dry no slippy stuff the head must grip the gasket ,the head "pants" so a good dry clamping is imperative just a slight smear around the rocker feed hole new washers and mini flanged nuts are best reuse the studs but die the threads to clear the crud out of the threads spin the studs in to a good hand tight , do not torque them to head nut torques the end with the slit up the thread is the end for the block its to allow oil and gas to escape a blind hole or you can explode the block face when you screw a full thread stud or bolt into the block Pete Edited July 24, 2023 by Pete Lewis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted July 29, 2023 Author Report Share Posted July 29, 2023 (edited) Hi again Anyone have a picture of where the rear engine plate bolts go please. WSM only states to fit it and nothing else!! TIA BTW - seem to have lost the bolts 🔩 😖 Edited July 29, 2023 by AidanT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted August 13, 2023 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2023 Hi all Anyone have a picture of what you used to spin up the oil pump? Thx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 13, 2023 Report Share Posted August 13, 2023 i just use the ....engine Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted August 13, 2023 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2023 18 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said: i just use the ....engine Pete I just wanted to get the oil all the way around the engine before the final bits go in. Thought I saw on here some way of circulating the oil around the engine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve P Posted August 13, 2023 Report Share Posted August 13, 2023 I just used an old cheap flat screwdriver with the handle cut off so it would fit in a battery drill. Anticlockwise iirc. Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted August 13, 2023 Report Share Posted August 13, 2023 Dont you have to remove the dizzy drive gear and turn the actual tang end of the oil pump shaft? Otherwise I would have thought the drive gear is locked by its engagement with the camshaft... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 13, 2023 Report Share Posted August 13, 2023 Aidan if you oiled all the journals and moving bits during assembly it will be fine , once started let it idle for few seconds to build up pressure ....what do you think triumph did on the assembly line , no time to faf around with dreams of utopia . Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted August 13, 2023 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2023 Thx Pete The issue will now be the time it takes to swap the engine over. All the ancillaries will need attention, cleaning etc plus I want to rattle can the fire wall half of which was coated in black underseal by the PO. A general clean up of the engine bay will also be needed. Lots of weekends in those items Aidan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 14, 2023 Report Share Posted August 14, 2023 (edited) that will keep you out of trouble for a good few eekends Have fun you know me stick to the basics and do what Triumph managed it works once you move into the myths and aftermarket must have ideas then the headaches develop Ha " Pete Edited August 14, 2023 by Pete Lewis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted April 25 Author Report Share Posted April 25 Hi all - quick question on electricals - or to be precise connectors - Any good suppliers out there that might have a Lucas 8 pin / way connector kit replacement? I have one behind the glove compartment near the rear of the fuse box that needs replacement - unless someone can advise how you van pull out the lucas pins to re-wire them TIA Aidan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
micklewis Posted April 26 Report Share Posted April 26 aidan look at https://www.3waycomponents.co.uk/product-category/automotive-connectors/ mick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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