Jump to content

GT6 Mk3 only runs well with VERY advanced timing. Any ideas why?


nicrguy1966

Recommended Posts

Just undone mine on the Herald’s engine with an 18” breaker bar and socket, with another approx 18” of steel tubing over the end (that just happened to be exactly the right size to go snugly over the handle of the breaker bar, having all this stuff lying around does come in eventually!)

The engine is on a stand and I locked the back of the crankshaft with a similarly sized lever against the engine stand.

Edited by Josef
Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, RedRooster said:

Windy gun is best, if not remove the starter and use a flywheel locking tool, a mini one should fit as the motors are similar then a socket with a big bar to get leverage. 

https://www.med-engineering.co.uk/products/flywheel-tool

That looks like a very good idea, and a lot less expensive than an impact driver.

I'm still hoping brute force, a hammer and a blow touch will shift it, as I'd like to get the job done without waiting for new tools to be delivered.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

For all the people giving advice, this is a 6cylinder engine we are discussing and the pulley is held on with a bolt, and not a nut.

the real tough one is the 4 cylinder engine that uses the sleeve nut, the removal of which is the subject of legend.

the bolt on a 6 cylinder engine should be fairly straightforward to remove.  Lock the engine to stop rotation and then use an 18” wrecker bar with a standard socket.  If that fails then an impact gun will free it in seconds.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

yes wheatabix not blow lamp  

we have enough problems with the crank pulley damper ring bonding breaking loose without cooking it 

then you are in the doo doos as they are not overly available these days 

locking the ring gear is a good way then all energy is on the bolt not winding the transmission up

 

pete

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Take off the starter, and jam a large screwdriver between the teeth of the starter ring on the flywheel, so that when you lean on the crank pulley bolt, the screwdriver hits the edge of the hole and jams the crank.  If doing this on one tooth worries you, there is a special tool: Flywheel Locking Tool - Petrol/Diesel | VSE2394 | Sealey

THEN , use the scaffold pole!

John

Link to comment
Share on other sites

16 hours ago, nicrguy1966 said:

Maybe I just need someone to sit in the car and put their foot on the brake? Triumph handbrakes are feeble at best!

Asked my wife nicely to do just that after I couldn't stop the engine from turning. 

Iain 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 minutes ago, Iain T said:

Asked my wife nicely to do just that after I couldn't stop the engine from turning. 

Iain 

I asked my wife nicely this morning, and was told that I'll have to wait until she's done her morning exercises. I thought about suggesting that her morning exercise could be freeing a stuck bolt, but decided better.

Soaking overnight with WD40 achieved nothing. Currently hammering the ring spanner, no movement yet.

I wonder where I can get 1m of scaffolding pole?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

19 hours ago, Puglet1 said:

In days of old, I have seen a skilled mechanic attach a very good fitting ring spanner or socket and Tommy bar to the nut, ensured that the spanner was resting safely against the chassis , distributor cap removed and the starter motor “flicked “ to unlock the nut. Make sure you are happy with the position of the spanner before doing so. 

It sounded crazy, but I tried it, and it worked! (After fixing the other end of the ring spanner to the chassis with cable ties just in case it decided to fly into the bonnet or windscreen!)

The crank pulley bolt is off!

Any other steps that are likely to be this difficult?

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

15 minutes ago, nicrguy1966 said:

The crank pulley bolt is off!

I've lost track, why do you want the crank bolt off? It's age you know.. 

Aaah just flicked back you want to take the timing chain cover off. 

Iain 

Edited by Iain T
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Timing chain cover is off, and I can see the timing mark on the cam gear. Sadly it looks perfect!

I'm not that surprised as the mechanic that I spoke to told me that whoever built the reconditioned engine would have put the timing marks on, so if he had the cam on the wrong place, the marks would be in the wrong place too.

20231014_110755.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 minutes ago, Iain T said:

Is the engine at TDC? 

Iain 

Yes, after taking it all apart, I put the cover and crank pulley back on to set it to TDC (I had already set it to TDC before taking it apart, but when I removed the timing chain cover I discovered the cam was 180 degrees out. 50/50 chance, just my luck!)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 minutes ago, johny said:

you need to go a little further and pull off the sleeve the cover oli seal runs on and the oil flinger disc behind it to see the mark on the small sprocket...

I'm having a little issue with the step "Remove the Woodruff key from the crankshaft nose with a pair of pliers". I've tried pliers and a small mole wrench and it hasn't budged at all.

So I'm a stuck again for the minute.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...