Triumph Herald 1200 Speedo Issue

[Shiv K P]

Hello all! I took my Herald for a long road trip the other day and all was a success and without faults except for towards the end of the journey, I noticed the speedo sticking on certain levels.

I came to a standstill at one point for a red light and according to the speedo, I was going 20mph. It moved slowly down but not to zero before I had to take off again. It seems to function well once I go above 40mph but when going less than that, it seems to just stick. Even once I turn the car off, it stays stuck at a certain level then maybe a couple of minutes later, goes back down to zero again. Does anyone know what the issue could be ? 

I hope someone can throw some light on this for me, thank you! 

[Pete Lewis]

the needle spindle sits in jewel bearings  after many years they need a spot of lubrication 

you can remove the drive head once you remove the chrome bezel , this may need the lugs prising 

open as the glass rubber rings turn into a awful gooey mess 

two screws on the back and the guts lift out

a dab of light oil on  a cocktail stick normally sorts out a stiff needle 

do not remove the needle .

a spot of oil on the input spindle is worthwhile 

pete

 

[Colin Lindsay]

26 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

do not remove the needle .

Again in big letters: DO NOT REMOVE THE NEEDLE! Comes off easily,  rarely if ever goes back on again.

[Shiv K P]

Thank you Pete! How would I go about prising the lugs on the chrome bezel to prevent a gooey mess ? I presume once the chrome bezel loosens, the glass front will come off with it. Will the main part of the speedo only get removed if the chrome bezel and the glass are removed ? Thanks again!

[Shiv K P]

I'll make sure not to remove the spindle, thank you for the warning. Are there any other bits and bobs to be careful with when attempting to access the spindle to oil it ?

[johny]

Unfortunately unless theyve been replaced the rubber seals around the glass will almost certainly be in a bad state and need replacing. In fact they can have gone so sticky that the bezel/glass becomes difficult to remove! There are kits available on ebay and elsewhere with the different seals..

Access to the internals is pretty easy once the speedo is disassembled so have a good look at all the springs and components to make sure theyre ok. Dont get oil on the face and treat that very gently as by now its paint can flake off☹️ 

[Shiv K P]

Ah thank you Johny ! Would you recommend just removing the internal speedo parts from the back of the dash rather than trying to access it from where the glass and the chrome bezel sit ?

[johny]

The complete unit has to come out from the front of the dash once the rear clamps are undone and wiring/cable disconnected. Then the bezel and glass removed so that when the retaining screws in the back of the case are undone the internals including dial etc just lift out. Thats it though and there shouldnt be any more dismantling necessary...

[johny]

Plenty of good videos online of dismantling Smiths instruments👍

[Shiv K P]

Terrific! Thank you very much, I will have a look at some videos too before giving it a go. 

[Shiv K P]

Ah and also, what oil would you recommend using to lubricate the needle ? 

[johny]

Needs to be a light oil and any Wd 40 type spray will do although as I say you dont want to get it everywhere so possibly spray some into a cap and then run it into the bearings on a thin screwdriver?

[Shiv K P]

Perfect, thank you! Also, when it comes to prising the chrome bezel out, how would I go about putting it back on firmly when everything is back in situ? 

[johny]

erm no prising bezels, it rotates (if not well stuck on) until its tabs (these made need loosening a little) disengage with the main case and it lifts off. Then its the reverse to put back on. All shown in the videos👍

[johny]

However if as Pete said earlier the bezel is really well stuck then yes the tabs have to prised back but very carefully as they can break off...

[Pete Lewis]

if you bend the lugs a bit to remove the bezel  once refitted ie fit the lugs through the slots in the case and turn it a bit you can reform the bezel with gentle use on a small vice to crimp it up tight 

the seals are just rubber section   dont go buying some are sold  at stupid prices 

some sell a length and you cut to suit 

i said oil with aid of a cocktail stick 

Pete

Edited April 15 by Pete Lewis

[Shiv K P]

That's great thank you both. I'll try and rotate the bezel and maybe do a bit of prising if necessary. Am I able to disconnect the wires from the back and take the gut of the speedo out through the front of the dash and try to remove the bezel afterwards once it's out ? 

[johny]

Yes the bulb holders pull out of the back of the speedo and you also have to undo the drive cable. There might also be a trip meter reset cable and voltage regulator to disconnect plus earth wires on the fixing studs. Take a photo where everything is if you can... 

[Shiv K P]

Thats grand, thank you very much, I'll do just that!

[Colin Lindsay]

13 hours ago, Shiv K P said:

That's great thank you both. I'll try and rotate the bezel and maybe do a bit of prising if necessary. Am I able to disconnect the wires from the back and take the gut of the speedo out through the front of the dash and try to remove the bezel afterwards once it's out ? 

This will give you some idea of what to expect. There are two screw mountings as in the one to the right, with the other opposite, they require unscrewed all the way off but at least the 1200 has room to get at them. On some there is a metal reinforcing ring that goes all the way round, and the two screw mounting lugs tighten against that, not the dashboard - more common in earlier cars with the flimsy fibreboard surround and not the solid wood of later cars. Speedo and odometer drives are the two threaded ones in the centre. Three bulbs to pull out and the wiring for the fuel gauge, and you may also have a voltage regulator - a mobile phone up in behind the dash for a few photos will show you what goes where before disassembly. The speedo will pull out provided the seal isn't glued to the dash, but needs angled to clear the voltage regulator through the hole.

That large circular seal between the speedo itself and the dash is now available as a strip, which you cut to length; there's another one between the bezel and the body, behind the glass, which used to be available in the same format - I haven't need any on ages so haven't looked. Be very very careful bending the lugs on the chrome bezel, it can crack easily and I often prefer to lubricate it well then gently tap it round until it can be slid off.

[Chris A]

I'm following this thread with interest as the speedo needle on my 13/60 has stopped moving at all. The mileage and oddometre are working so I have assumed that the problem is 'minor'. I am very reluctant to open the unit in case I do more damage and have been thinking of contacting a couple of local classic garage mechanics about it, but thanks to this thread I am beginning to think I could have a go (or not) . . .

[Pete Lewis]

so let us know if you succeed or..........bugger it up   Ha 

I had a smiths head drive and magnetiser in my warranty test room but too big to take home   when the factory closed ,went in the skip.

good bit of kit when you re energised the electomagnets the town would go dim  !!!

 

Pete

[Chris A]

35 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

so let us know if you succeed or..........bugger it up   Ha 

If I succeed I will if the second then I doubt I'll own up 🤐

[SpitFire6]

On 16/04/2024 at 14:06, Pete Lewis said:

so let us know if you succeed or..........bugger it up   Ha 

I had a smiths head drive and magnetiser in my warranty test room but too big to take home   when the factory closed ,went in the skip.

good bit of kit when you re energised the electomagnets the town would go dim  !!!

 

Pete

Quatermass?

[Shiv K P]

I have tried applying some oil with a cocktail stick at the back where the drive cable goes into the speedo as well as where the needle spindle sits in those bearings. The issue still seems to be there. When I take off, I must be coming up to about 30mph before the needle decides to move up from zero. I am not sure what could be wrong, does anyone have any idea ?