trigolf Posted May 16 Report Share Posted May 16 Evening all. Probably a daft question, but, has anybody ever managed to replace the secondary cable, without removing the relay lever and guide etc first? If so, I think the propshaft rear flange would require unbolting to gain more working space, which does'nt seem to be mentioned in the manual? Gav Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trigolf Posted May 22 Author Report Share Posted May 22 So....judgeing by the deafening silence, I going to assume that nobody has tried or managed to replace the sec cable without removing the relay lever/compensator first, as per the manual??? I only ask, as it looks like it MIGHT be possible to ' thread' the cable around the compensator without removing it first??? Working upside down and fiddling with clevis pins and split pins, at the range of my glasses, does not appeal, but needs must!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted May 22 Report Share Posted May 22 if the barrel can be fed through comp lever gap its easy , if not then its fight the clevis pins i have a better like for a shanked bolt and lock nut so you can undo with spanners not fight manque old pins that refuse to extract with pliers , side cutters or gun powder !!! Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Truman Posted May 22 Report Share Posted May 22 I seldom use split pins any more I use reusable R clips/pins easier to install and remove Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trigolf Posted May 28 Author Report Share Posted May 28 Well, this job is not going according to plan! This morning, I have disconnected both clevis forks, pins and springs. I'm now trying to pull/feed the the old cable ends through the floor mounted ( Vit mk2) cable guides. Both ends are jamming about 2/3rds of the way through the cable guides and no matter what I try, I can't get them through and out ( see pics). Of course I could cut the threaded sections off to remove them. But if the old ends won't go through the guides, then the new ones won't either! I have'nt disturbed the compensator/relay lever yet, but there seems to be enough slack in the cable to get the ends free. Am I doing something wrong? Advice please! BTW, the reason I'm changing the cable is because one of the threaded ends has stripped threads and I can't adjust h'brake properly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Foster Posted May 28 Report Share Posted May 28 Gav Could you elongate the hole in the plate carrying the curved guide. Might not need much fettling to get a bit more room! Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Truman Posted May 28 Report Share Posted May 28 I gave up and cut the adjuster threaded bar at each end to fit them through then used a threaded barrel joiner with locknuts at the adjuster end to reconnect it all and adjust can supply a photo tomorrow if needed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trigolf Posted May 28 Author Report Share Posted May 28 Ian, Pete thanks for suggestions, but I think I've just found the solution after a bit of Googling on this very forum!, although it still looks a b****y pain in the arse, working upside down with not a lot of room! Cut the ends off old cable with an angle grinder and remove. When threading new cable feed straight through first bend in guide and pull enough thro' to form a loop and then feed end through second bend hole. I have checked that new cable is correct length! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GFL Posted May 28 Report Share Posted May 28 (edited) Yes, you need to feed through one section and make a loop then feed through the second bit as per your suggestion, that's how I did mine? Gary Edited May 28 by Gary Flinn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trigolf Posted May 28 Author Report Share Posted May 28 Update. I have got the old cable out by cutting the ends off. This afternoon I have tried feeding the cable every which way through one end of a guide and trying to form a loop to get the other end lined up with the guide, but have failed miserably. It does'nt help that trying to bend the cable is like fighting an anaconda. I'm struggling to find any space amongst the diff, driveshafts etc to get a loop formed and line up the threaded end with the opposite end of the guide. Can I just confirm that people have succeded to do this with the diff etc fitted on a Mk 2 Vit? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GFL Posted May 29 Report Share Posted May 29 13 hours ago, trigolf said: Update. I have got the old cable out by cutting the ends off. This afternoon I have tried feeding the cable every which way through one end of a guide and trying to form a loop to get the other end lined up with the guide, but have failed miserably. It does'nt help that trying to bend the cable is like fighting an anaconda. I'm struggling to find any space amongst the diff, driveshafts etc to get a loop formed and line up the threaded end with the opposite end of the guide. Can I just confirm that people have succeded to do this with the diff etc fitted on a Mk 2 Vit? I did mine with bulkhead upside down. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GFL Posted May 29 Report Share Posted May 29 (edited) Can you cut a slot in the flat section that form's the hole in the curved guide with an angle grinder or saw, bend out the way, install the cable and then bend it back and tack weld it. I know it's all very restricted and awkward when your upside down though. Edited May 31 by Gary Flinn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trigolf Posted May 29 Author Report Share Posted May 29 43 minutes ago, Gary Flinn said: Can you cut a slot in the flat section that's firm's the hole in the curved guide with an angle grinder or saw, bend out the way, install the cable and then bend it back and tack weld it. I know it's all very restricted and awkward when your upside down though. Yes, I'd already thought of that idea, but am loath to cut a slot, as I can't weld and don't know anybody personally who can. That would mean finding a mobile welder, unless I can find someone in our local TSSC who can. Reading the forum, it does sound possible to do as is - just! I'll have another go at the 'loop' method.😟 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Foster Posted May 29 Report Share Posted May 29 I refer the honourable member to my previous response! Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trigolf Posted May 29 Author Report Share Posted May 29 Hi Ian. The saga goes on...... I had a second go at the' loop' method. It still did'nt work for me. So I resorted to cutting a slot in the guides as per Gary F's suggestion and bending it to create a small gap to slip cable in. Will need services of mobile welder to make good now. I then connected one side at the drum and went to connect up other side. Arrgh.. too short by about 2"! I'd measured the new one at 171cm, which I understood as correct length for a Mk2 according to some people on forum - or should it be 177cm? I bought new one from Paddocks listed as 151227. Before I take the bloody thing out, I'm going to check my relay lever angle just to be sure. Grrr..... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted May 30 Report Share Posted May 30 Maybe the fact that it's an incorrect cable is the reason it won't slide through the guides? Us Herald owners don't have that sort of problem, so just querying! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trigolf Posted June 1 Author Report Share Posted June 1 Best get a cup of tea and I'll try to keep this as short as possible. Today I checked the relay lever angle as per the manual to confirm it's correct. It is quite close to 'spec' angle. Has anyone ever noticed that the diagrams (Fig 24,25) on page 3.213 of the official manual is wrong for a Vitesse? The drawings have the primary cable and pivot pin on the wrong sides,when compared to the car, unless it's correct for a GT6? Also, the relay lever 9 in fig 22 appears to be upside down too? I measured my old cable length, adding on the threaded ends that I'd chopped off to aid removal. It measures 177cm. The new one supplied by Paddocks measures 171cm. I confirmed with John at Paddocks what the specified length is for Mk2 Vit on his system - 171.5cm. I then spoke to Dave at Canleys. who stated their spec was 172cm. He added that Canleys had withdrawn them from sale a while ago, due to a question about the correct length! He had not had an opportunity to fit one to a Mk2 Vit in the workshop to confirm himself. For some strange reason Triumph ommitted to specify the official correct length in the parts manual.🤔 He suggested I phone Rimmers and check their stock - sure enough 172cm! BTW, the car is on axle stands under the wishbones as per proper adjustment procedure. So it would appear that none of the major Triumph suppliers has the correct length cable in stock at the moment. I can't find a new old stock correct one on ebay either, so will turn some 1/4" UNF connectors to extend the cable. I'll get my coat now.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Truman Posted June 1 Report Share Posted June 1 Sorry I aren’t taking the one I replaced eons ago out to measure it, I remember the hassle I had at the time getting thro the guides and as I had to cut the adjuster thread off to achieve this the new treaded bar and barrel thread joiner enabled me to tailor adjust the length to suit, remember to put lock nuts on the thread joiner Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trigolf Posted June 22 Author Report Share Posted June 22 In case anybody is interested, I thought I'd post the final chapter of the sec h'brake cable replacement saga... Having confirmed that the new cable was def too short, @ 172cm, I got some hex bar and fellow Triumph owner Ian F drilled and tapped it 1/4 UNF for me, to create 2x 25mm adaptors for me. I also got some 1/4UNF studding to join to the clevis fork. After some experimenting. I concluded that 1 adaptor would be sufficient to extend the cable length. I now have a good handbrake - much better than it has been for years. However,I don't understand why suppliers are stocking a cable that is too short - when pressed, all said that no one had returned a Mk 2 cable for being too short!🤔. Clearly, having the relay lever, not set at the correct angle can change the available length at the clevis ends, so check first! My relay lever angle was wrong, but even when corrected, the cable was still too short! Gav Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted June 22 Report Share Posted June 22 I did this Herald cable recently (removed it) and it was NOT easy... as you say it fought all the way! Once a loop is started it's easy to feed through and out, though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Truman Posted June 22 Report Share Posted June 22 8 hours ago, trigolf said: In case anybody is interested, I thought I'd post the final chapter of the sec h'brake cable replacement saga... Having confirmed that the new cable was def too short, @ 172cm, I got some hex bar and fellow Triumph owner Ian F drilled and tapped it 1/4 UNF for me, to create 2x 25mm adaptors for me. I also got some 1/4UNF studding to join to the clevis fork. After some experimenting. I concluded that 1 adaptor would be sufficient to extend the cable length. I now have a good handbrake - much better than it has been for years. However,I don't understand why suppliers are stocking a cable that is too short - when pressed, all said that no one had returned a Mk 2 cable for being too short!🤔. Clearly, having the relay lever, not set at the correct angle can change the available length at the clevis ends, so check first! My relay lever angle was wrong, but even when corrected, the cable was still too short! Gav Ditto as I did to mine, but I shortened the threaded section of the new cable to make it pull thro the Mk2 body/chassis guide easily then used the threaded bar joiner to join shortened threaded cable end to a new length of threaded bar to reconnect to the yoke, all works well! Same parts just arranged differently Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted June 23 Report Share Posted June 23 I'd worry that wouldn't be as strong as the original, and may pull out / strip threads if pulled hard? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted June 23 Report Share Posted June 23 Yes perhaps if the issue of the cables being supplied too short cant be resolved the way to go is to get longer end forks made - certainly simple enough.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Truman Posted June 23 Report Share Posted June 23 2 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said: I'd worry that wouldn't be as strong as the original, and may pull out / strip threads if pulled hard? Surely the short square nut in the fork is weaker than a long threaded joiner Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted June 23 Report Share Posted June 23 I see UNF stud connectors are available on ebay (although round not hex) so these could be the way to go for anyone with the same problem in the future. However looking at Trigolfs photo Im not sure of the adjustment as the cable stretches. I think I would have shorter joiner and longer threaded rod into the fork so that way the adjustment could be done as always - slacken fork external nut, remove fork cotter pin, rotate fork and its internal square nut to take up the slack and reassemble. That way the joiner doesnt have to undone at all... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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