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Vitesse 2 liter - strobe timing / pulley markings query


James H

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i think it is always desireable to keep the differential front to back 

even if the psi you use is a good bit higher than the WSM aged data 

there is a sort of natural balance to keep the front pointing where you want to end up 

trial and error combined with your own driving style will give you a feel for what you like quite quickly 

Pete

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2 minutes ago, JohnD said:

Yes, I have, and no, less in the rear.

Unless you hammer it!

Thanks John, it had to be really, anyway glad someone has actually tested the theory on track, almost certainly a Triumph misprint then but each to their own as to what they prefer :)

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On 27/09/2024 at 15:13, Pete Lewis said:

the drop plate or drop block fits under the spring and locates in the top of the diff 

they come in 1/2" 3/4"  and 1"  thicknesses .

to preserve you pistons you dont want any persistent  pinking    it can fail  a piston in time without any warning 

definitely  check the damper ring  we had this on our 1600  back in the early 2000's  makes for good head scratching  , you could turn our ring with your fingers , 

i would  not waste any funds on octane boosters   ,your 98 should be fine (providing thats what you actually got)

most of us run on 97/98 with factory setting and they are fine 

do you have a std distributor or some after market hopeless replacement ????

Pete

Pete

Pete hi, finally got around to checking under the rear and strangely I can confirm there is no drop plate of any size fitted, back to the drawing board re the low ride height but more importantly I'm bl**dy glad I did as I discovered all four drivers side drive shaft bolts to the diff were not only slack but wobbly loose, omg ! Couldn't get a socket on so it was a double spanner job which doesn't seem ideal for adequate torque but I've done my best 🙏

Also is it normal for the drive shafts to make contact with the frame when both rear wheels are off the ground to the point where the wheels cant be turned by hand ? I had to tighten the bolts in pairs, lowering it down, rolling it forward and jacking it up again to do the other two...

Edited by James H
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9 minutes ago, James H said:

Pete hi, finally got around to checking under the rear and strangely I can confirm there is no drop plate of any size fitted, back to the drawing board re the low ride height but more importantly I'm bl**dy glad I did as I discovered all four drivers side drive shaft bolts to the diff were not only slack but wobbly loose, omg ! Couldn't get a socket on so it was a double spanner job which doesn't seem ideal for adequate torque but I've done my best 🙏

Also is it normal for the drive shafts to make contact with the frame when both rear wheels are off the ground to the point where the wheels cant be turned by hand ? I had to tighten the bolts in pairs, lowering it down, rolling it forward and jacking it up again to do the other two...

Normal on my Heralds, anyway. I have to pad the rear axles out by fitting some kind of protector between axle and chassis rail to avoid paint damage after refurbishing a rear spring, until the weight of the bodytub pressing down raises the axles off the chassis again.

DSCF1158.jpeg.386c5678204dfd20fa7530c07d7d9427.jpeg

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6 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:

Normal on my Heralds, anyway. I have to pad the rear axles out by fitting some kind of protector between axle and chassis rail to avoid paint damage after refurbishing a rear spring, until the weight of the bodytub pressing down raises the axles off the chassis again.

DSCF1158.jpeg.386c5678204dfd20fa7530c07d7d9427.jpeg

Thanks Colin, interestingly when I jacked it up the second time the passenger side tyre was left touching the ground and the drivers side spun freely so apparently only an issue with both off :) 

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17 minutes ago, johny said:

So nothing like this then James? Can be difficult to spot as not always shiney like in the photo. Also how many blades has the spring got, should be 11? 

image.thumb.png.205337f8fa16a229476cc730aa1a185a.png

Hi, nope definitely not one and yes 11 leaves counted with a finger nail

Edited by James H
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Doesnt leave many possibilites then. Could be later long drive shafts fitted but I would have thought that would be noticeable and cause problems with tyre to wheel arch clearance or, more likely, the spring is different either through blade thickness, its tempering or curve set. Either way if not bottoming out a lower back end is definitely better for handling...

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4 minutes ago, johny said:

Doesnt leave many possibilites then. Could be later long drive shafts fitted but I would have thought that would be noticeable and cause problems with tyre to wheel arch clearance or, more likely, the spring is different either through blade thickness, its tempering or curve set. Either way if not bottoming out a lower back end is definitely better for handling...

Odd as to why then but absolutely, I prefer the look and drives great, seems I've lucked in for once ! There is a noticeable camber from the rear too (again preferable) so let me know what to measure for re the shafts, could be the case...

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4 minutes ago, johny said:

I make it approximately 314mm between the centre line of the UJ to the shaft dust shield (obviously pushed up against the bearing carrier) for a short shaft and an inch more for a long one....

Thanks so much for doing that and turns out mine are the short ones then, very weird but no problemo it will stay as is :) 

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10 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

fitting a lowering block between diff and spring will reduce camber from \-/  to more |--|

 

Pete

Mine is /--\ without a lowering block and with short shafts... 

P9305437.JPG

 

Edited by James H
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Pete I remember you looked up the Canley part code and thought it might be an error but could it be that the spring is shortened, maybe a custom ?

The camber is slightly exaggerated in the photo because of the way I've pulled into the space, if I reversed out straight and in again it would be slightly less but even so it has increased camber.

Edited by James H
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31 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

well anything is possible  you could call  Dave at Canley  and ask ??

if the camber changes when you reverse then the  rear toe is incorrect 

Pete

I spoke to Dave in the past about the drivers side being slightly lower, thats why I had the photo of the spring, and on the spot he effortlessly rattled off a list of a dozen things to check but I didn't mention the camber or general ride height. He said he beleived the spring to be standard for the car and that customs are a thing of the past but like I said I only mentioned the ride height difference because at the time I was none the wiser about the general ride height or camber being suspiciously off. The only thing on his list I haven't verified are the trunnion bolts, to be honest haven't got my head around how they function but will look into it...

Edited by James H
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1 minute ago, Steve P said:

Yours is lower than my Vitesse, and that has an old TriumphTune lowered and de-cambered spring on it, have you got 3 chopped up bodies in the boot?.

Just had a look and negative, shame that would've explained things...

Trust me my mind is melting over this one as everything seems stock, got to be a variable I'm missing !

Its got a TriumphTune rocker cover, could that be a clue to other work having been done ??

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