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Emulsified/Melted Master Cylinder Rubber Plunger Seal


Colin

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Ahhh the reservoir is open to all the brake system UNTIL the pedal is pressed when it gets shut off and the fluid in the brake system compressed by the master cylinder piston. You can open a bleed nipple and the fluid will flow out (slowly) by gravity until the reservoir is empty. Indeed some bleed systems use this method with no operation of the pedal necessary however they use air pressure applied to the reservoir or vacuum at the nipple to speed up the process....

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Have a Gunson Eezibleed but always had trouble with it leaking brake fluid at various points, have used silicone brake fluid in my Vitesse for years without problems, touch wood.

A friend has recently restored a Riley Elf and had a lot off trouble with new brake cylinders leaking after a very short time, he didn't use silicone brake fluid.

Regards

Paul

 

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Thanks Paul. 

We think these are,all the same - but they're not, are they?!

As I said - I really can'y recall if I even tried to use the kit after purchase (noted a saved 'guarantee' slip still in box) in 1984 (!!), so if I have any luck with it remains to be seen! 

I may as well try and if it - or I - fail, then it'll be back to begging a pedal-power Pal for sit-in help!! 

Cheers! Best, C

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On 11/10/2024 at 19:01, johny said:

Because online, although many people dont do it and never have problems, the recommendation is to only go to silicone with new rubber throughout...

Yes, there are lots of people parroting the "You need to change the rubber seals when changing to silicone" line online - doesn't make it true though.

Automec who actually make/sell the stuff clearly say you DON'T need to change the seals and you've have to think when dealing with a safety critical system like car brakes in the modern litigious world wouldn't be saying it if it wasn't true/an opening for someone to blaim/sue them for an accident.

 

That said I'd always recommend replacing seals when switching to silicone - but just because the seals are service parts and if you're draining the system to change fluid it means longer before you have to do it again to change a seal!

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Hi Paul. Thanks indeed. Not heard about this site. Sounds like what I'm trying to achieve. Have just taken receipt of Goodridge flexible rear hoses (the fronts are already Goodridge), so when this darned weather stops raining, get down to changing those - and see if my 'Eezi-bleed' works! 

Best, C.

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So having already refitted and re-installed the brake master cylinder, I've been waiting on a decent day to run her out on the handbrake and fit recently received rear Goodridge flexible brake hoses. All successfully done today. If weather holds, I'll be trying the Eezibleed tomorrow. First time for everything! Fingers crossed 😀

20241015_145247.jpg

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I’ve found the ezibleed tends to seal ok on original master cylinders. On some repro ones the threads for the cap are not well formed enough though. In that case I use two woodwork clamps to gently hold the cap on. Works on the Herald, but the reinforcement brackets on the Spitfire get in the way and prevent that method being employed! Always test the pressure with no fluid in the bottle too, then if there is a leak it’s only air you’re spilling all over the place. 

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