Eddie Posted March 23, 2016 Report Share Posted March 23, 2016 My diff has always leaked from the front, and as I have the prop shaft off to change the clutch and UJs it seems like a good time to fit a new front oil seal to the diff. I have consulted Garth at Club HQ and he agrees that this can be done with the diff in situ, but is not sure whether or not I will have to remove the cross member. Has anybody done this and if so can you give me any advice? Do I need any special tools or techniques? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren Groves Posted March 23, 2016 Report Share Posted March 23, 2016 I've done it on the car before, some years ago but remember it to be pretty straightforward. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Flinn Posted March 23, 2016 Report Share Posted March 23, 2016 Did this replacement on my Vitesse, the hardest job is digging the old seal out, I used an old Screwdriver to lever it out a bit at a time. There's no need to remove the cross member, undo the Nut and the Flange should pull or tap off easily. Make sure you fit the Nut back to the same position and use a new Split pin. Also make sure the drive flange is smooth and rust free where it will rub on the new seal. The Double lip type seals are worth fitting too, you get twice as much chance of sealing the oil in! It's worth changing the oil while your at it, but Triumph didn't put a drain plug in most of the Herald/Vitesse diffs, so some sort of suction Pump will be needed with the Diff in the Car ? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eddie Posted March 23, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2016 Thanks. Is there a torque setting for the big nut? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted March 23, 2016 Report Share Posted March 23, 2016 70-85lbft in the WSM. if prop is off always file the coupling mating faces to remove any old bruising, as this will cause run out and vibrations. check the 4 wedgelok screws in the crossmember are tight these have a tapered shank as the hole is bigger than the bolt thread, they need a shallow internal shakeproof washer , if one comes loose you get a horrific clatter and a lock up......got that Tee shirt . Pete 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eddie Posted April 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2016 Thanks for all your advice. I did the job today and it was OK but the old seal didn't want to come out without a fight! Also the new seal from Rimmer's didn't look much like the old one, so thanks to Garth at Club HQ for reassuring me that it was correct. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted April 6, 2016 Report Share Posted April 6, 2016 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DRAPER-UNIVERSAL-O-RING-SEAL-PULLER-37439-/311468853295?hash=item4884fd882f:g:4UkAAOSwhcJWJn2- A good investment! bit late now (sorry) Also handy for getting core plugs out... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 6, 2016 Report Share Posted April 6, 2016 Oh Matron thats a good idea Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Posted May 3, 2016 Report Share Posted May 3, 2016 Hi All on this subject I am also going to replace my Pinion oil seal on the diff and also the inner drive shaft seals, my question can these also be replaced with the diff in situ if so what is involved by that I mean do I need to remove anything from the car or is a case of undoing the UJ shafts into the diff and letting them drop? Regards Andrew Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted May 3, 2016 Report Share Posted May 3, 2016 just drop the drive shaft coupling bolts and use allen key thro the bolt holes,, then pull short shaft out of the diff . word of warning getting the bearings off the short shaft to replace the seal in the outer cover can be a challenge Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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