Is this repairable?

[Bordfunker]

I bought my Herald back in July, and to all intents and purposes it appeared sound, with the just to be expected rust in the lower passenger door and adjacent rear wing corner.

 

Having driven the car a few times the heater appeared to be jammed on so I thought I would start the restoration with the heater assembly, which was duly removed.

 

This revealed a heater plenum chamber full of crud which had obviously trapped a lot of moisture over time, with the effect below.

 

 

And in close up.

 

 

This is the passenger side, the driver's side has some corrosion, but not as much.

 

 

And again in close up.

 

 

The rest of the bulk head is solid, so I'm loath to have to replace the entire bulkhead assembly.

 

Assuming it is repairable, can anyone recommend a good body shop in the Banbury area.

 

Karl

[Pete Lewis]

this is not structural, I think i would try a good filler 

i have used marine epoxy its waterproof and much tougher than general body filler.

 

get it from a  yacht chandlers or ebay etc.

 

just an idea 

 

Pete

[Stuart R]

I think the rust in that location is a standard feature.  Here's mine viewed from the other side with the dashboard removed...

 

Be careful if you find someone up for welding as there's a lot of sound insulation hanging on the other side of that bulkhead which will easily ignite, plus the main wiring loom runs just a few inches above the holes.  A strip-out of the dashboard and some interior trim for safety could take longer than the repair itself.

 

Filler may be the way to go once you've got rid of all the grot.  Although I suspect if you try cleaning-up too hard on the driver's side youI'll turn the pitted metal into more holes!

 

I did the holes in bottom of a spare wheel well with a fibreglass repair kit and it's still there now...much of the boot floor isn't.

[Bordfunker]

Thanks for the feedback guys.

 

The dash is going to have to come out at some point as it needs re-finishing over the winter, so I may well get it welded up.

 

The sound proofing is already out as it was mainly dust held in a plastic bag!

 

In the interim I'll cut the rot out and stabilise the rust.

 

Karl

[Colin Lindsay]

Eminently repairable to 'as new' appearance.

Here's the three steps of repairing quite substantial holes revealed by sandblasting: 

1. Take it to a mate who welds a Frankenstein patch over it.

2. Remove patch by grinding and attempt a filler and mesh repair.

3. Give up and send it to a good bodyworker who returns it looking like new.

Photos in order...

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Bordfunker]

I prefer the look of 'Option 3'

 

I'm not looking for perfect, as there will be a heater sitting in front of it, but something presentable would be preferred.

 

Karl

[JohnD]

Again, Pete I'm offended that you suggest a filler bodge!

There is NO place for filler as a rust repair - the rusted metal cannot be removed or "cured" and corrosion persists. The ONLY legit use for filer is to smooth out residual bumps and seams.

 

Best is to remove the heater box, drill out the spot welds, cut out rust, replace with suitably shaped panels, replace box (paint inside first), repaint. Yes its not a job to be do without experience, but how do you get experience? By doing the job!

 

The only bit of kit that is expensive, or needs actual experience (=practice) is the welding, but same argument.

 

Give it a go, Karl! Recruit local members to help, advise and drink your beer!

John

[Bordfunker]

John, I was pondering drilling out the spot welds on the plenum chamber allowing it to be removed and the patches welded in flat with the bulkhead panel.

 

I am assuming the the plenum panel could then be plug welded back in using the wholes drilled when removing the spot welds.

 

Karl

[Pete Lewis]

Sorry about that John,

 

in this area to me its the old choice utopia ££££ or compromise £

Colins snaps tells it all

its not directly structural and not seen, its good to have a spread of ideas for

owners can make a choice

[Bordfunker]

I'm glad of all the feedback everyone, as it's good to understand all the options open to me.

 

Particularly as I was scared that the corrosion may have rendered the bulkhead toast!

 

I'm inclined towards doing the most thorough job I can, without breaking the bank.

 

Karl

[JohnD]

Karl

You imagine the procedure exactly. Special drill not costly, removes outer leaf of spot weld inner left intact. Plug weld back again.

Pete, yes cut your cloth etc, but the "repair" you suggested is a bandaid on a wound that will not heal! Its very short term, will new to be done again and can make matters worse. I've done "repairs" with gaffer tape, to get me home or into the next race for lack of time.

 

Should mention the rubber flap valve that should allow water out, but tends to keep leaves etc in. It is needed to stop engine compartment fumes getting into the car.

 

John

[dougbgt6]

I'm with Pete, If as he says, it's not structural, rust treat it and fill it. It can't be seen and as long as it's watertight, fume tight and done properly it will last for years.

 

Also a little suspicious of Colin's photos. They look a little Ye olde photo shope? Why would obviously new panels have filler smeared all over them?