Dean Weston Posted April 8, 2017 Report Share Posted April 8, 2017 Never removed one before any tips would be helpful Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 8, 2017 Report Share Posted April 8, 2017 No special unless its a rotaflex which may need a spring lifter . the long bolt across the back can be a tight removal. may need the exhaust moving to clear the diff front support frame to pass down. support the chassis safely , undo the spring top plate, and the drive shaft and propshaft pry the drive shafts away from the couplings remove the rear long bolt, support the weight on a jack remove the front two mounting nuts and lower the unit , its quite heavy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Mackenzie Posted April 8, 2017 Report Share Posted April 8, 2017 I'd add big arm muscles if you're doing this on axle stands. Be ready for it to rock around on the trolley jack as it comes free, and access to that long bolt with a drift and hammer etc. is difficult. Putting it back and lining up the holes for the long bolt is worse! My second least favourite job on these cars! But as Pete says, no special tools. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 8, 2017 Report Share Posted April 8, 2017 many replace the long with two short Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted April 8, 2017 Report Share Posted April 8, 2017 I have a simple wooden carrier. It's a block of wood, the top 'shaped' to take the diff. Two scraps of wood screwed on top, one chiselled to take the drain plug on the main casing, and another to take up space between the block and the 'nose' of the diff. Very crude. The carrier sits on the trolley jack, so the diff doesn't roll off, most of the time, as you lift or lower it. John 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dean Weston Posted April 9, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 9, 2017 Thankyou all most helpful and diff is now out. New problem the diff which I have purchased has four stud holes on top but the one I have just taken out has six. What have I done wrong, I was told it came out of gt6 and it would be the same fitting for my vitesse, obviously not . Any help would be appreciated . Thanks Dean Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 9, 2017 Report Share Posted April 9, 2017 use top clamp plate as a jig, drill 2 new holes with 8.3mm drill about 3/4" deep tap them 3/8 x 24unf and jobs done, space the plate higher then there is more vertical control of your free hand drilling the diff you have had a swing spring box which only has 4 studs , I did this on my Vitesse with a battery drill ,, check the depths of the old 4 holes im sure they dont go through to the diff, so drilling doesnt put any swarf in the carrier , well my 2 holes didnt some would say 4 studs is sufficient but on a fixed spring there is more roll forces to contain. so 6 is safest. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted April 9, 2017 Report Share Posted April 9, 2017 They go right through the diff casing! Best to take the cover off before working on it, or swarf will be a problem. BUT!! The old cover with the six holes is a bolt-on-fit!!! They all are. So swap them over. You will need to pull out the quarter shafts to remove the casing, but that is a simple job with an Allen key, and will not disturb any of the clearances set in the diff. It's a fiddle job, bets done on the bench, but you have the new diff there already. The Allen screws come out into the indent in the otherwise square output flange, so turn the diff to clear them. A new gasket for the cover is all that is required. Simples! John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dean Weston Posted April 9, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 9, 2017 I love how you guys always say simple, it's easy. Without your help it can be hard work. Thanks very much back to the garage I let you know how I get on. . Thank you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dean Weston Posted April 12, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2017 Ok started to put it back together but I have noice the roto Doughnut Had split do I need pulley to fix this issue. Thanks. Dean Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted April 12, 2017 Report Share Posted April 12, 2017 Pulley? You need a press to take the hub off. That's the only way to change the donut. John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 12, 2017 Report Share Posted April 12, 2017 think you can drive the shaft out thro the hub , Ive not done this , but the hub sits on a spline not the taper of the shaft cars . just make sure you dont bludgeon the threads , make a tube drift to fit over the threads . Rota flex expert will be here soon ........... a ha John's on the ball Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted April 12, 2017 Report Share Posted April 12, 2017 Hi Dean , you need a hub press like the pic . . I have one, where do you live ? Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dean Weston Posted April 13, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2017 Yet again many thanks your help has been very valuable. I have the diff back in and have purchased hub puller as shown in pictures. Both Roto doughnut are on there way out so changing. Next problem I have tried to purchase drop down arms which come off the dampner. Rimmers told me they are not available and I need to fit a kit Containing shock absorbers. Surly this is not the case. Help required yet again. Thanks so much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dean Weston Posted April 13, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2017 Yet again many thanks your help has been very valuable. I have the diff back in and have purchased hub puller as shown in pictures. Both Roto doughnut are on there way out so changing. Next problem I have tried to purchase drop down arms which come off the dampner. Rimmers told me they are not available and I need to fit a kit Containing shock absorbers. Surly this is not the case. Help required yet again. Thanks so much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dean Weston Posted April 13, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2017 Paul, Thank you for your offer most kind. I live in Farnborough Hampshire but I have purchased one because I don't think this will be the last time I'm going to need one.. lol I don't know how to post pictures, I would show some pictures which would make it more interesting for everyone else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted April 13, 2017 Report Share Posted April 13, 2017 Paul, Thank you for your offer most kind. I live in Farnborough Hampshire but I have purchased one because I don't think this will be the last time I'm going to need one.. lol I don't know how to post pictures, I would show some pictures which would make it more interesting for everyone else. Hi Dean , adding photos is easy enough, providing you know where your photos are located on your computer - ive added a couple of screen shots to assist in loading photos to posts Regards Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted April 13, 2017 Report Share Posted April 13, 2017 Yet again many thanks your help has been very valuable. I have the diff back in and have purchased hub puller as shown in pictures. Both Roto doughnut are on there way out so changing. Next problem I have tried to purchase drop down arms which come off the dampner. Rimmers told me they are not available and I need to fit a kit Containing shock absorbers. Surly this is not the case. Help required yet again. Thanks so much. Lever arm dampers are available from Canleys - Rimmers are trying to sell you a conversion which adds a top strut to covert to vertical dampers . The theory is great in practice difficult to fit as the added strut goes between the body and the chassis . To achieve this the chassis bolts needs to be loosened in the area and the strut added - If the body and chassis havent been parted for some time the bolts are rusted and wont come out - Ive added the struts so can add photos if you like - The club sells the conversion kit - the cheapest option being replacement lever arm dampers regards Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 14, 2017 Report Share Posted April 14, 2017 When you have selected from Browse dont forget to 'click attach this file ' Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dean Weston Posted April 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2017 Canleys. No longer sell them. Anymore idea anyone. Thank you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted April 14, 2017 Report Share Posted April 14, 2017 Fitchetts? In the back of my mind, lucking amongst all sorts of stuff (!!) is a memory that the links were unavailable for years, but somebody got a batch made a few years ago. Could have been Jigsaw, they do some small run stuff. But you may have to ask a few suppliers....and ask for leads on who may have them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted April 14, 2017 Report Share Posted April 14, 2017 Tried Fitchett's or James Paddock ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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