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Distributor & fuel pump oil leak


Robin

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I've got two  small oil leaks that appear to be coming from the base of the distributor (where it meets the block) and also from where the fuel pump meets the block. I'm also missing a bolt that secures the distributor clamp (see photo) but can't fit a new one while the distributor is in place. Could this missing bolt be the cause of the oil leak?

 

I'm assuming that both the distributor and the fuel pump are fitted with gaskets so my questions are;

 

1. Can I loosen off the clamp and remove the distributor, fit new spacers/gaskets and fit a new bolt without having to reset the timing? If not are there any tips on getting the timing correct?

 

2. is it possible that oil could seep past the fuel pump gasket? If so is it easy to remove the fuel pump and fit a new gasket without having to drain the fuel from the tank first of all? Is there anything else I need to be aware of?

 

Many thanks

 

 

Robin

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I don't know about your distributor but on my fuel pump there's a small "tell-tale" hole on the left/underside; it can be checked with a small mirror and a torch. I had a new pump start leaking from here and giving the impression that it was the gasket that had failed.

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Guess you tried to fit a short setcrew to the missing  without success,  , you need to ndo the dizzy clamp bolt and raise the case a little

 

mark the dizzy and its postion in the clamp , so if it rotates a bit you can put it back where it came from.

 

have you tried nipping the pump up ???   only 2  1\2" headed bolts.,    you can remove the pump without  removing the pipes and fiddle a sealer behind the face to re seal it.

 

if you remove the pipes there is some syphon effect on a vit/herald even though the  suction tube is at the top of the tank,  a drill shank stuffed up the hose soon holds it back,  you could clamp the hose but that doesnt do the hose much good..

 

are you sure its from the mount face and not from the bleed hole under the main body ???

 

whats you engine breather like  any blockages or bunged up filter mesh inside  the rocker cover ( if it has one)

 

Pete

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I don't know about your distributor but on my fuel pump there's a small "tell-tale" hole on the left/underside; it can be checked with a small mirror and a torch. I had a new pump start leaking from here and giving the impression that it was the gasket that had failed.

Thanks - will take a look. Did you need to replace the pump?

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Guess you tried to fit a short setcrew to the missing  without success,  , you need to ndo the dizzy clamp bolt and raise the case a little

 

mark the dizzy and its postion in the clamp , so if it rotates a bit you can put it back where it came from.

 

have you tried nipping the pump up ???   only 2  1\2" headed bolts.,    you can remove the pump without  removing the pipes and fiddle a sealer behind the face to re seal it.

 

if you remove the pipes there is some syphon effect on a vit/herald even though the  suction tube is at the top of the tank,  a drill shank stuffed up the hose soon holds it back,  you could clamp the hose but that doesnt do the hose much good..

 

are you sure its from the mount face and not from the bleed hole under the main body ???

 

whats you engine breather like  any blockages or bunged up filter mesh inside  the rocker cover ( if it has one)

 

Pete

Hi Pete - so if I mark the position I should be able to lift the dizzy out and refit with affecting the timing?

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Yes, I did replace the pump, under warranty. It was one of those occasions when I started believing that the original one must be ready for failure and I wished I'd left it well alone...

Touch wood, the replacement replacement has been fine.

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Robin  a pot of typing correction  fluid, snopake or similar is always good for marking odd things 

 

1307813098correctionproductsst.jpg

 

 

 

Oil on the drive  I can see Colin coming up with a song  ???

 

oil be seeing you

 

oil be aright on the night

 

oil things bright and beautiful

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Thanks for all the advice

 

Has anyone ever found a way of keeping the engine/gearbox/diff oil actually inside the car rather than on the driveway?!

You just have to keep at it, and track the leaks down one by one. Sometimes fairly easy to fix, sometimes not worth the aggro.

 

My ford T9 box has a very very minor lear on the speedo drive. Several new seals later I have stopped worrying. About 100ml a year (5-8k) doesn't seem excessive, but has created a fair mark on the driveway. Just a hazard of ownership. The Ford engine is really oil tight, EXCEPT after a trackday. Extended periods of 7000rpm and contsant hard cornering tends to push a bit of oil out. Again, not a lot, and largely down to the breather I reckon. As in it is too small. Saw a tr5 at Brands hatch, had a a 32mm breather setup (same as main radiator hoses) and the owner reckoned that was just about big enough!

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Robin,

The above concentrate of stopping the leak, rather than finding the cause.   

 

To have "oil leaks " from two points that communicate with the crankcase makes me wonder about your crankcase pressure, if that is high and forcing oil mist out.  You might also find oil leaking from the dip stick.

Take off the oil filler cap when the engine is warmed up and running.   

There may be a light breeze coming out, which is fine, or a mighty wind, which is not, and could be the cause of the trouble.

Then if no high wind, examine the means that Triumph provide to vent that pressure, onto the road (very early) or into the intake manifold, via a Emission control valve, between the rocker cover and the inlet manifold.

The last can get blocked, but can be easily dismantled and cleaned, and the hoses checked to be clear

But first, run the car without that rocker cover vent connected, but the hose to the inlet manifold blocked off - a bolt or a piece of wood dowelling.   Do the 'leaks' stop?

 

JOhn

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Hi John and everyone else

 

Thanks for the suggestions and I agree that it's a bit odd that both leaks started at the same time. The only thing that's changed recently (last week before this happened)  is that I had the core plugs replaced on the water side so the manifolds came off - nothing changed on the 'oil side'.

 

I've now managed to replace the missing bolt on the dizzy and tightened the fuel pump bolts as Pete suggested but  I've still got the leaks as previously mentioned - there's no leak from the dipstick but a small deposit of oil around the rocker cover boIts. 

 

I've checked the hoses, emission valve and the oil filler cap (photo attached) but can't find any obstructions. The leaks don't seem to happen at tick-over - only after the car has been out for a run -  I ran the car with the filler cap off (no 'wind') as John suggested but only at tick-over speed with no leaks. Went out for drive and leaks returned.

 

I guess my only option is to replace the dizzy spacer and the fuel pump gasket and see if that cures it. It looks as though there are two sizes for the dizzy spacers - 0.006 & 0.020. How do I know which one I need?

 

Many thanks again

 

 

 

Robin

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i would just seal what you have,  there is a controlled endfloat of the drive gear details in the manual.

 

you select gaskets to get the correct setting ,, its 0.003-0.007"  endfloat/lift of the gear with the pedestal nipped up tight.

Hi Pete

 

Would you use a silicon sealer as well as the gasket/ spacer?

 

Thanks

 

Robin

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Yes any sealer , will work , just use what you have , nothing special needed

 

if unsure about the end float , with the pedestal fitted grip the drive gear with long nose pliers

and it should have a very small amount of lift

if its tight it can seize, unlikely on yours as its been in use a long time and is going to be about right.

 

if its ecessive it can make a tapping rattle

 

if that helps

 

pete

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