leon.halliwell Posted April 8, 2018 Report Share Posted April 8, 2018 I’m thinking about pulling the engine out from my car and giving it an overhaul. It runs now, not beautifully but no major problems other than a few oil leaks. It’s done 90,000 miles and I doubt it’s ever had a full rebuild. Has anyone recently done this. Some hints and tips would be good. I’m going to have to send the head, block and crank off to be reground. I want to do as much myself as possible. How long does this usually take? What’s the normal cost? leon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglefire Posted April 8, 2018 Report Share Posted April 8, 2018 It will take as long as you like. With all the bits to hand ready to go, you can get it rebuilt in a day. But unless you really are on a timescale, do it at your leisure. Make sure you have a couple of dial gauges on stands - either magnetic bases or ones to bolt to the studs to time the cam and measure the end float. I would get a selection of thrust washes in different sizes - they aren't expensive and there is nothing worse than having to order some more to get the right size. I would replace the cam and cam buckets if it were me (That mileage I doubt its in that good nick.) - I'd also fit a duplex timing chain (Well I did!) Head you might as well get hardened seats fitted whilst its in the shop. I assume they will fit and relap the valves and replaced/refurb the tappets. You will know the size of the big ends and mains to get the right size. Use Payen gaskets on the head at the very minimum - they aren't expensive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leon.halliwell Posted April 8, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2018 I’m going to strip, clean, paint and replace what I need to as I go along. I expect it to take a while just don’t want to spend loads of money and waste good summer driving time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted April 8, 2018 Report Share Posted April 8, 2018 Leon, To be honest I wouldn't do it until something breaks. Presumably you'll be taking the engine out and stripping it down? You mention the head, are you thinking of getting it unleaded? These heads have the "memory of lead" and if in reasonable condition little point in having it done. The guys who did my block and crank had it done in a couple of days and supplied the correct pistons and bearings. I had it all back together and running in a weekend. New timing chain a good idea! This was all 30 years ago so the price now, who knows? Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted April 8, 2018 Report Share Posted April 8, 2018 Gaskets and oil seals, core plugs, timing chain, oil pump, and a good coat of paint. Unless there's something drastically wrong it'll soldier on for years with clean oil regularly changed. Once you enter the realms of disturbing things - pistons, cams etc - you're into the bigger money so unless you either need or want to, don't. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leon.halliwell Posted April 8, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2018 It’s one of those jobs that’s starts out with a simple plan but spirals out of control. I’m only concerned about any wear that’s built up in the engine that could cause catastrophic failure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leon.halliwell Posted April 8, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2018 Thanks Colin, most of those jobs seem like you can keep the engine in the car, it defo needs new mounts and I really need to check the crank for end float but I suppose once the sumps off I can do that in situ too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted April 8, 2018 Report Share Posted April 8, 2018 Leon, Slacken the alternator belt get hold of the crank pulley, pull and push. Any but the slightest movement and end float needs sorting, I had 1/4" . Spec is low thous. Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglefire Posted April 8, 2018 Report Share Posted April 8, 2018 From memory the max allowable is 12thou - min about 6. My rebuild of an engine that I bought "refurbed" escalated into more than anticipated - though not a real surprise. And I enjoyed doing it - which was more the point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted April 8, 2018 Report Share Posted April 8, 2018 Before taking the engine out, do a compression test (throttle wide open, all plugs out) If all good and similar, don't bother with a rebore, and do not take the pistons out (no matter how tem pted you are. If you do, you need new rings and a hone) If you are taking the engine out, drop the sump and you can inspect the big end and main bearings, plus the crank. You can replace all the bearings (with a little jiggery-pokery) without taking the crank out. The important thing is to source good quality parts, much harder to do than it sounds. Re cam, the last new cam and folowers I fitted lasted 15k before inspection revealed one lobe almost round and another breaking up. So if the cam is good, and unmarked, I would re-use. Plan B would be a newman cam, who are probably the best out there. Under no circumstances just call up a supplier and order parts, you MUST do your research! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted April 8, 2018 Report Share Posted April 8, 2018 55 minutes ago, Anglefire said: And I enjoyed doing it - which was more the point. Yes! But, it's done all too quickly. Almost nothing* more enjoyable than an engine rebuild. *See Pete's other web site. Doug 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglefire Posted April 8, 2018 Report Share Posted April 8, 2018 15 minutes ago, clive said: Plan B would be a newman cam, who are probably the best out there. My cam didn’t look that good so I bought a Newman cam - essentially standard because it kept the power band lower down which is where I wanted it. But for a 1300 you could go a bit more fast road ? whatever you will need new buckets for a new cam to keep the warranty. I went for the matching Newman’s ones even though the po had fitted new ones. But I also agree with all of the above. If you are doing because you know it needs doing, do it properly. It will cost you some money. I’ve no real idea (only because I haven’t added up the bills ) what mine cost but was well north of £500 and that was with no block or head work. And didn’t include the rebuilt dizzy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leon.halliwell Posted April 8, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2018 Thanks everyone I think I’ll do the compression test and check the end float if any problems then I’ll go to town on the engine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 9, 2018 Report Share Posted April 9, 2018 Why do you feel it may have a catestopic failure Does it smoke, burn oil, misfire , rattle or knock, in general these will soldier on for years Do you want to tootle , or drive like you stole it, thers is utopia and compromise Theres little point is spending well over your pocket money and only doing 2000miles ayear You have to balance anticipated cost with what you gain All down to preference This should have loaded yesturday I hate thisnsilly tablet Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave.vitesse Posted April 9, 2018 Report Share Posted April 9, 2018 I agree with all the comments. Leave it at present. You could obtain another engine and take your time rebuilding that. Dave. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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