Adrian Saunders Posted August 31, 2018 Report Share Posted August 31, 2018 (edited) I’ve started a new thread on this as it seems feasible, but I might need your assistance. The MGBGT channel’s bend is only 3 to 4 mm different, when the parts are meshed, see picture. I measured them, did some CAD, and that measured 3.8 mm, see CAD screen shot. I’ve tried the MG channel with a GT6 rubber inside it on the glass, it fitted and slid along it easiily, the compliance in the rubber helping I’m sure. I’ll need to get new brackets made in slightly thicker mat’l as I can’t do them thin with bent sides as per original, anyone help there? Edited August 31, 2018 by Adrian Saunders Notify replies Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Saunders Posted August 31, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2018 Still working on this but, the MGBGT channel is looking hopeful. I’ve modelled the GT6 channel in CAD and I’ll check with sheet metal workers on feasibility. Meanwhile, I’ll remove the brackets from my knackered channel and temp fix them to the MG channel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Saunders Posted August 31, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2018 Guys, I’ve sketched up the brackets, onto the CAD drawing of the channel. Would any of you be able to verify my measurements? I’ve attached pictures of the drawing and sketch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted September 1, 2018 Report Share Posted September 1, 2018 I thought all drop glasses were flat why the curved channel ??? Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KevinR Posted September 1, 2018 Report Share Posted September 1, 2018 GT6 ones are curved and handed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted September 1, 2018 Report Share Posted September 1, 2018 ok ive never tried one ... guess thats progress towards a modern design ?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Saunders Posted September 3, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2018 I’ve tacked my “new” channel together and fitted and it works! It’s the one on the left. A small amount of tweaking and final welding to do. Notice along the back edge of the drop-glass, the edge that ends up parallel to the B post upper and the other more angled edge that’s just protruding out of the door. The latter, is the only part of the glass that runs in the channel/felt! See the wear-marks on the glass. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Saunders Posted September 5, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 5, 2018 Hey guys, where should the drop-glass finish, relative to the top of the 1/4 light. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Saunders Posted September 6, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 6, 2018 17 hours ago, Adrian Saunders said: Hey guys, where should the drop-glass finish, relative to the top of the 1/4 light. I can get mine as high as this before the radius on the top of the glass contacts the 1/4 light frame. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Saunders Posted September 9, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2018 I’m struggling to get the glass to not rock back and forth when fill up. Can GT6 owners check how stable the glass is at full extent. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gully Posted September 10, 2018 Report Share Posted September 10, 2018 19 hours ago, Adrian Saunders said: I’m struggling to get the glass to not rock back and forth when fill up. Can GT6 owners check how stable the glass is at full extent. Thanks. Very little movement on mine - just enough to take up the pressure of the runner seal whilst still compressing it. Gully Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Saunders Posted February 7, 2020 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2020 Channel with brackets tacked on. Made with some tooling this time, not just measured and clamped. Trial fit this weekend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Saunders Posted July 6, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2020 Good, no, excellent news, the fab worked. I’ve fully welded the brackets to the channel and the result is splendid. The 3D printed “tooling” would probably do one more R/H channel before it melts into uselessness. I’ve modeled for both hands so I can produce tooling for car sets. Anyone interested? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrishawley Posted July 8, 2020 Report Share Posted July 8, 2020 In its fully up position the door drop glass should be nice and stable and not be floppy fore-to-aft or side to side. It took me two full days to get mine just right - but it's hard to put into words. But some pointers might be. Fresh fleecy rubbers in both rear channel and q-light channel: Fresh inner and outer weather strips: The Q-light frame and the rear channel have to both be adjusted in conjunction to get a light 'squeeze' on the glass: I worked backwards by putting the glass raised and then adjusting rear channel and Q-light till the glass was locked tight, then in lowered position and lock tight again (this give some reference points to work back from). : Lastly - the fully up position of the glass should not be too high - the highest point of the glass should be the same height as the top edge of the q.light. The leading upper edge of the drop glass is chamfered and this should hit on a rubber buffer pushed in the upper end of the q.light channel. Sorry that's not all 100% coherent but it's hard to put two days of iterating (faffing!) into a few words. Cheers Chriszx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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