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Rear brakes locked up


Andrew

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Guys

Herald 13/60

Been out today for a about a 50 mile run and the car ran beautifully.  Left the car on the drive and as the night is so good thought I would take her out for one last run today.  Got in the car and she would not move it appears that one or both of the rear brakes are locked on.  Any bright suggestions what it could be and where to start to rectify this.

Brake lining good adjustment as per the manual locked up wheels and back one notch

regards

Andrew

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Unwind the brake adjuster screw behind the drum backing plate.   If necessary, strike the drum to release shoes.

Then dismantle drum and inspect shoes.  May have been disassembled, with shoes reversed - leading where should be following (look this up if you need to!

John

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 Think Back off one notch is cutting a bit fine  i would take it more  maybe 2  to 4 clicks

With drum off which will be difficult if undoing the adjuster wont free the drum the Rear shoe must have the small square hole not used for the handbrake at  the bottom   so the front shoe is leading and the rear is a trailing shoe  

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Just an update guys

took of the ROS drum after backing off the adjuster quite a few turns asked my wife to push the brake pedal and guess what no movement of the wheel cylinder.  Look like it has seized up in the out position as the brake shoes needed to be backed off quite a way.  I thought wheel cylinders seize up when returned to the rest position has any one come across this before. 

Regards

Andrew

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If the wheel cylinders are partially seized (normally due to corrosion) then they may move outwards as you apply pedal pressure for normal braking (especially if you brake fairly hard) but fail to return under spring pressure, leaving them locked on.  That is not the question....... what is the question is how you got home yesterday without noticing a problem.....

Nick

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Hi Nick are you questioning my superb driving skills? I assure you when I manually pushed my car out of the garage prior to my long run is freewheeled out as per normal.  Anyway I will purchase new shoes wheel cylinders and drums as my drums are scorred

Andrew

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Hi Andrew, When you replace everything, you might find you will not get the drums back on..... This seems to happen a lot on your brake set up. This is due to pattern parts being not as "OE"  If so you might have to grind a bit off the heel of the shoes. Hopefully you should be ok.

Tony.

 

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On 9/3/2018 at 10:28 PM, Andrew said:

Hi Nick are you questioning my superb driving skills? I assure you when I manually pushed my car out of the garage prior to my long run is freewheeled out as per normal.  Anyway I will purchase new shoes wheel cylinders and drums as my drums are scorred

Andrew

No skills question here - just genuine curiosity as to how your brakes apparently weren't stuck when you drove in in the afternoon and then were the following morning....... without it being (directly) handbrake related......

All the stuck-on overnight brake incidents I can remember have been caused by the shoes rusting to the inside of the drums, usually due to over-ambitious fording of deep waters........ though my sons's Arosa will pull that particular trick after just about any damp winters night.

Nick

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just check the new cylinders have some lubrication under the boot before you fit them  keeps aged   corrosion at bay.

theres some good shots of the horse shoe clips on another posting . 

they only fit one way round  the curved clip goes against the back plate the flat one over the top of it 

the clip  dimples should   make  a postitive location in each other , some repro's are really terrible

nice blue /black are ok  anything shiny is usually truly awful

 

Pete

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Hi Pete

Bought a rear brake refurbishment kit from Paddocks.  I.E. Shoes, drums, wheel cylinders, adjusters, springs.  Bought two kits so i can do both sides.  When I have complete the job I will report back what I have found to be the problem why the wheel cylinder seized in the expanded position.   

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7 hours ago, Ben Caswell said:

First thing to do is to release the bleed nipple and see if the piston goes back. It may be the flexible hose has

collapsed inside and is working like a non return valve. ...

This! If you don't know how old the flexible hoses are (or even if you do), spend a bit and replace them while you're replacing everything else. I had a front hose fail internally on my Herald back in 2012. Long story short: LF hose failed, pretty much locking up that front drum. By the time I could get to a place to safely pull out of traffic, it was so hot that the wheel bearing grease caught fire, and the backing plate end of the hose popped out of its fitting. After that, the car rolled fine again...and there was still pedal pressure, even with that end of the hose flailing about. Yes, I was towed home! I've never seen brake linings pretty much literally charred to nothing before! Oddly, the wheel cylinders were rebuildable.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hello all

as promised that I would report back when I have sorted my locked up brake issue.  It was I thought the offside rear wheel cylinder sized up in the expanded position any way changed both wheel cylinders,brake shoes, drums and adjusters so both back brakes are completely overhauled.  When I took the old cylinder apart it was rusted solid internally.  Looking at the parts replaced by the PO these wheel cylinders are only four years old.  Anyway just thought you would all want to know as I have never wheel cylinders seized in the out position

regards

Andrew

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