Suspension rebuild kits

[Marc F]

Hi all, we are looking at rebuilding the front end and wanted to see if anyone new which suppliers used which parts. I think Paddocks use Superflex bushes, have greasable top joints, and supply Stanpart trunnions. But do others - especially Rimmers. I ask as Rimmers have their sale on, and are attending the NEC so we can save postage, but I don't want to buy "cheaper" just to get inferior parts.

So anybody's experiences will be welcome. Especially as I have just finished reading the thread about trunnions and whether to use polybush, rubber seals etc.

Thanks

[Paul H]

Bought mine from Canleys , good prices . Also bought vertical links from them but if you buy its best to solder the base or fill in with epoxy as there is a tendency for the oil to leak - Unless you buy NOS pretty sure all VL's could suffer from leakage 

Paul 

[daverclasper]

Also bought mine from Canley. Cheapest I could find by quite a bit, also the bolts and nuts kit.  (normally have to cut through the bolts if been on for a while).

Paul did you mean the trunnion leaks, rather than the VL?.

I used Araldite on the outer edge of outside face of the bottom cap of trunnion to seal. Been fine.

Dave 

[Paul H]

1 hour ago, daverclasper said:

Also bought mine from Canley. Cheapest I could find by quite a bit, also the bolts and nuts kit.  (normally have to cut through the bolts if been on for a while).

Paul did you mean the trunnion leaks, rather than the VL?.

I used Araldite on the outer edge of outside face of the bottom cap of trunnion to seal. Been fine.

Dave 

Hi Dave - Vertical Links bases need to be sealed - I did mine with solder . 

Paul 

[johny]

dont understand Paul  - theres a hole in the vertical link? and how does oil get out as it should be sitting trapped in the threaded section of the bronze trunnion? 

[dougbgt6]

The hole in the vertical link shouldn't be sealed, that's how the oil gets into the trunnion and oozes it way up the threads, so it's not actually trapped, that's why you godda keep topping them up.

Others seal the bottom of the trunnion from the inside, never thought about doing the outside, but that would be easy to do if a leak develops. I haven't actually sealed mine, the previous pair were solid, no insert. My new ones have the insert, I didn't know then there was a problem, but they've been OK so far. I've read concern about sealing an existing pair, but I think a quick blast in the dish washer will clean them enough to glue or solder.

Doug

[johny]

your right Doug, of course the nipple is in the vertical link and the oil is pumped out of the hole in the bottom of the threaded section where it then pools inside the trunnion. 

I believe Paul has mixed up the names of the vertical link and trunnion....

[dougbgt6]

Johny,

I think you're right, a failure of nomenclature. 

Doug

[Paul H]

Apologies , it was the trunnion base that needs sealing , and easy to do if it’s new . Mine failed after 9 months after finding oil on the floor under the trunnions . I believe NOS ones are solid so don’t need sealing 

Paul 

[dougbgt6]

Paul,

My solid ones weren't original, I bought them in the 1980s, not sure what the originals were. 

Doug

[Peter Truman]

My Mk2 Vitesse still has its originals and there've got steel washer inserts, which ironically have rusted badly on the underside even after 44yrs in Australia & frequent oiling, so they obviously haven't leaked!

If they do leak I'll file off the rolled seal to the washer on the brass Trunnion, do the dishwasher trick (ensuring WIFE absent) and solder in a copper coin of the realm suitably  modified (sorry Eer Majesty), "Eer in doors" spat the dummy when I put the flywheel in the freezer and ring gear in the oven, hey it worked a treat. 

I must make sure the Aus Penny is not of that very rare 1930's era & year where their worth mega bucks!

Peter T