Colin Lindsay Posted November 23, 2018 Report Share Posted November 23, 2018 Does anyone know if these plastic 1980s push-connectors are still available to buy anywhere? No ideas of what the name is but if I can get two (at least) I can simply join new cabling to the existing without having to attach any other kind of connector. If not, I'll just solder bullet connectors. Secondly, does anyone know of any kind of rubber or plastic repair paint which can coat cables to repair damage to the existing sheathing (caused by scotch locks - hate those things; you can see the notches in the white / pink cable, and the black earth cable is damaged as well). I could use insulating tape or maybe heatshrink, but a brush-on solution would be easy if one was available. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted November 23, 2018 Report Share Posted November 23, 2018 50 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said: Secondly, does anyone know of any kind of rubber or plastic repair paint which can coat cables to repair damage to the existing sheathing (caused by scotch locks - hate those things; you can see the notches in the white / pink cable, and the black earth cable is damaged as well). I could use insulating tape or maybe heatshrink, but a brush-on solution would be easy if one was available. Or better still Colin, why not use fresh wiring to maximise safety and prevent future electrical issues. Regards, Richard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted November 23, 2018 Report Share Posted November 23, 2018 If appearance is not a problem, and as a 'brush-on' one is, I presume it isn't, the "self-amalgamating tape". Does what it says on the tin, you can't get it apart. It will cling to clean plastic cable sheath too. John 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted November 23, 2018 Report Share Posted November 23, 2018 I don't know about those specific single-wire connectors but the 3mm style used on most of the 1970s Triumphs is available from the likes of autosparks 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted November 23, 2018 Report Share Posted November 23, 2018 Colin, Chop them off and use bullets, or are you going for concourse? Doug 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted November 24, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 24, 2018 Concours??? Moi? I'll settle for running and driving. Bullets are the fall-back (backstop? ) as it's only the connectors for the radio / CD player, but I was being lazy and thought it might be possible just to plug in a similar male / female end as required. Fresh wiring is a possibility but at some point it's still going to have to be joined to the loom, so I'm exploring the options. I'll check out John's tape, it may be a good repair as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted November 24, 2018 Report Share Posted November 24, 2018 Colin, The pink/white wire (as you know) is the correct Lucas colour code for a radio application. You could connect that direct to the aux terminal on the ignition switch and run an inline fuse if your ICE does not have an integrated removable fuse. As such you would not have to open up the loom if that is looming; I presume the 2x black wires are earth. Regards. Richard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casper Posted November 24, 2018 Report Share Posted November 24, 2018 (edited) 19 hours ago, classiclife said: Secondly, does anyone know of any kind of rubber or plastic repair paint which can coat cables to repair damage to the existing sheathing (caused by scotch locks It exists at a price: https://tinyurl.com/yab5kgp8 https://tinyurl.com/ybkqnvpj EDIT - This stuff is suggested on an electronics forum and is cheaper: https://tinyurl.com/y8abg635 C. Edited November 24, 2018 by Casper Additional info Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted November 24, 2018 Report Share Posted November 24, 2018 Not my quote, but a couple of good links provided above. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted November 24, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 24, 2018 5 hours ago, classiclife said: Colin, The pink/white wire (as you know) is the correct Lucas colour code for a radio application. You could connect that direct to the aux terminal on the ignition switch and run an inline fuse if your ICE does not have an integrated removable fuse. As such you would not have to open up the loom if that is looming; I presume the 2x black wires are earth. Regards. Richard. An excellent suggestion, my good man! It would only be a matter or re-routing the cable out of harm's way around the heater. If I'd had to trim the damaged bits off it would have been left quite short; a bullet connector would have worked ok but this will save me a bit of upside-down soldering. The black ones are earth, I'll repair the existing ones and run another to a good earth point to improve contact. Off to the garage I go to examine the ignition terminal, which is exposed as the cowling has been removed. Thanks, Richard! That coating of Casper's is expensive for all I require (NOT 4 litres, which is what is on sale on eBay!!) but I'm wondering: if it's only cuts and nicks in the plastic coating of an earth cable, why not black rubber sealer from a tube? Flexible and waterproof, and a fraction of the cost... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave.vitesse Posted November 24, 2018 Report Share Posted November 24, 2018 On the TR7 the aux point is hard wired into the loom and comes out as the radio power connection. The late Lucas connectors appear to be unobtainable so most people revert to using the bullet connectors. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted November 24, 2018 Report Share Posted November 24, 2018 Dave, Can / Is a direct feed possible form the ignition switch assuming it does have an aux terminal ?? Regards. Richard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted November 24, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 24, 2018 38 minutes ago, dave.vitesse said: On the TR7 the aux point is hard wired into the loom and comes out as the radio power connection. The late Lucas connectors appear to be unobtainable so most people revert to using the bullet connectors. Dave I think he's right. (Sadly) Back to the original plan which will probably be bullet connectors. It was worth a try though. I may be jumping the gun with the radio, though, miles to go before that gets to be a priority. I've found another errant blue and white cable behind the dash, near the brake switch, and what MAY be the missing green brake switch cable, which shows what you could call some slight evidence of overheating: I suspect that's been caught in a pedal and earthed through the metal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted November 24, 2018 Report Share Posted November 24, 2018 Have you looked at the ignition switch, Colin, to ascertain what is available as far as aux is concerned ?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave.vitesse Posted November 24, 2018 Report Share Posted November 24, 2018 The ignition switch is hard wired into a loom that then plugs into the main loom. There are no spade terminals. It's an assembly. If you want to get to any of the connection at the ignition switch you have to hack into the loom, not a good thing to do. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted November 24, 2018 Report Share Posted November 24, 2018 Thanks Dave, useful to know. Sorry Colin, as you say, back to plan A !! Regards. Richard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted November 24, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 24, 2018 Correct Richard and correct Dave, both - yes there is an aux terminal which I had hoped was a spade or screw terminal, but it's rivetted so I'm afraid the only option would be to splice into the pink and white wire, which I'd like to avoid if possible as I'm undoing forty years of PO splicing. Yes, I could attach it to the ignition switch end and string an entire new cable, but I'm hoping it's sound under the protective cover and only the exposed end is damaged by Scotchlocks. I think the preferred option is going to be bullets at the business end as the path of least resistance. No pun intended! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave.vitesse Posted November 24, 2018 Report Share Posted November 24, 2018 Scotchlocks !!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted November 24, 2018 Report Share Posted November 24, 2018 5 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said: Yes, I could attach it to the ignition switch end and string an entire new cable, but I'm hoping it's sound under the protective cover and only the exposed end is damaged by Scotchlocks. I think the preferred option is going to be bullets at the business end as the path of least resistance. I agree Colin, the wire should be very protected with the wrapping around it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave.vitesse Posted November 25, 2018 Report Share Posted November 25, 2018 Toledo, 1500, Dolomites, and late Spit all have the ignition switch hard wired. I believe this is true for most 1970's BL cars.The later Lucas connectors appeared around the mid 1970's. Concur that the lead must be insulated from the ground or cut back to good insulation and a new piece of lead fitted. Sorry if I interrupted the flow. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted November 25, 2018 Report Share Posted November 25, 2018 3 hours ago, dave.vitesse said: Sorry if I interrupted the flow. Not at all Dave, on a personal note I was unaware that the hard wire technique occurred so early. Thanks for the info and insight. Regards. Richard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mjit Posted November 26, 2018 Report Share Posted November 26, 2018 On 23/11/2018 at 15:46, Colin Lindsay said: If not, I'll just solder bullet connectors. Not recommended for connectors in cars these days - crimp is better. With solder some will flow down the wire inside the insulation via capillary action, creating a hidden hard point where the vibrations you get in a car will start to fatigue the wire. This happens with crimp connections too but they are easier to spot as, worst case the connector falls off the end of the wire. With solder you have a perfect looking connector that may be down to just a few connected wires (increasing load) or all broken and only connected by touch (leading to intermitten faults). both of these are much harder to diagnose and require more wire to be chopped to fix. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted November 26, 2018 Report Share Posted November 26, 2018 Yes, explained all that to my brother yesterday, today he tells me he's soldered his connectors. In one ear and out the other! Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted November 26, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 26, 2018 1 hour ago, Mjit said: Not recommended for connectors in cars these days - crimp is better. With solder some will flow down the wire inside the insulation via capillary action, creating a hidden hard point where the vibrations you get in a car will start to fatigue the wire. This happens with crimp connections too but they are easier to spot as, worst case the connector falls off the end of the wire. With solder you have a perfect looking connector that may be down to just a few connected wires (increasing load) or all broken and only connected by touch (leading to intermitten faults). both of these are much harder to diagnose and require more wire to be chopped to fix. Good points. I was going to argue that it was only the earth connector, but then as so many electrical problems occur in our cars through dodgy earths, I don't want to add another. I guess now I need a box of female spade or crimpable bullet connectors, so I can crimp away and get the radio connections finished and the lower dash panel back on again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mjit Posted November 27, 2018 Report Share Posted November 27, 2018 22 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said: I guess now I need a box of female spade or crimpable bullet connectors, so I can crimp away and get the radio connections finished and the lower dash panel back on agai * And a good quality, ratchet crimp tool so you only need to crimp them once. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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