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Cylinder head identification


Tipidave

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Hi all

the time has come for my 1965 herald 1200 to get an overhaul of the cylinder head... i have been storing a "spare" for years... it looks right but I cannot for the life of me remember what it came off. It is marked stanpart and has two sets of numbers in the casting as per photos. 

Is this a likely candidate to send away for a refurb before removal of the existing head. Any advice greatly appreciated. 

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The exposed push-rod tubes are pointing to an earlier engine, maybe an early Spitfire head? I seem to remember that part number being a Spitfire number rather than Herald; but have no Spitfire parts manuals to confirm. In any case it should be fine for exchange against a Herald variety of that era.

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Exposed push rod tubes mean 1147 or (unlikely) 948.

There should be a stamped number on the machined upper surface of the head which is the useful, distinguishing one.

1147 Spitfire engines have conventional valve caps with collets. Herald versions use more unusual push-on things. Can’t quite see which you have in the pics.

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Yes; if anything the Spitfire head would be rarer so I can't see anyone complaining, if indeed there are any actual differences eg in valve seats etc between the two heads.

Send us a photo of the exhaust port side and the underside and we can compare.

(An 8 port head would be nice... I want first dibs!) 

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Yes the herald block is identical. The wat to tell is as Nick said the valves, If they have collets at the top they are spit, if the valve caps have a sort of figure 8 which the valve clips into then Herald. If you also use the mk3 spec cam and twin carbs then you would basically have a spit engine.

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Only if you want to rev the nuts off it.   Double springs help prevent valve bounce at high revs.

What you you want to have done to it that makes you want to 'send it away'?     The most useful thing that only a machine shop can do is to fit steel exhaust valve seats.     Necessary,  IMHO as you are going to lap the valves in again, aren't you?  Removing any lead memory it has and making recession more likely, although not inevitable.  New valve guides too, perhaps, if there is ANY side play, any at all.

Anything else, you can do yourself, even cleaning up and 'flowing' the ports and chambers.      If you do that then 'buretting' the now slightly bigger chambers will check on equality of volume and let you calculate the skim required to return  the CR to normal, or even increase it a tad.

John

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks for all the replies. 

I may just remove the original head (low compression 2&3) and top and noise. Runs kind of ok but difficult to start. Compression remained low when oil placed in each pot. 

I really just want to get engine to a good level of serviceability but don't want to go mad with it. I will be selling the car once sorted because I have recently re-discovered and purchased my old herald... But that is a different story...

 

isvthe club refurb service at £250 a bit over the top then? 

I have lapped in valves many many years ago and remember it was quite satisfying! It is more the need for hardened  valve seats made me think maybe to send away and get it done. 

Does anyone know of a engineer close to Southampton, Portsmouth that could do a skim and seats 

for less?

 

 

 

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I guess if you just want to make it a decent runner rather than utopia and keep it then a good clean of all the carbon build up and 

Lap the valves in with some paste will make a good job,

As for lapping I use a reversible battery drill on the stem.   To rejuvenate the seats .... not the old rubber sucker

Just take note of the seat angles and no pocketed valve heads .

Pete

 

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its a herald head looking at the valve spring retainers,  rockers look reasonably worn and need a pad reface as part of the rebuild

the face corrosion may clean up with a hard block and wet and dry + oil  otherwise a skim and reseat the valves have the exhaust inserts added as now is the time 

Pete

 

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