Pete Lewis Posted February 22, 2019 Report Share Posted February 22, 2019 you are supposed to raise the suspension on a jack when oiling to take the load off the threads The reason will be somewhere , off to watch vera Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted February 22, 2019 Report Share Posted February 22, 2019 Hmm, but does anybody actually do that?!! It's the Vera about the body in the septic tank, seen it. Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted February 23, 2019 Report Share Posted February 23, 2019 Daves picture shows exactly how the crack progesses across the upright and how small the final section is before it lets go Ultimate failures do seem to stack the odds to fail like curbing, sharp turns onto driveways not so many at speed thankfully But it does happen , its not an area to be ignored and not bad when you consider how old some uprights are. Would going trunnionless still be around with road dirt wearing away at the spherical .???? Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mpbarrett Posted February 23, 2019 Report Share Posted February 23, 2019 Decided to strip and overhaul the front suspension as I haven't done it for a long time (and the shocks dont work very well) so here is my LH upright. Really want to change it if I can find available. Have cleaned up the surface but a lot of corrosion pitting on the surface although it not at the thread level and the thread looks ok. Also looks like the bearing has picked up on the shaft (although the bearing feels fine) and top of shock absorber almost worn thru the shaft. And I managed to break by joint splitter... So all going very well.... I have already brought new shocks, springs. The Trunnions look and feel good with no slack and have been regularly oiled. Top ball joint on both sides is so tight I cant move them once they are off the car, plan to replace them with grease nipples ones. List of new parts needed is growing but then it hasn't been doen for a while (if ever) and I have plans to do Scotland in April and the 10CR in September so she does need a bit of TLC. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RogerH Posted February 23, 2019 Report Share Posted February 23, 2019 6 hours ago, Pete Lewis said: Daves picture shows exactly how the crack progesses across the upright and how small the final section is before it lets go Pete A good quality well focused photo is require to see the crack propagation. To me it looks as if the crack started in the small area at the 6-o-clock position and then failed rapidly across the larger area. The ridge on the 3-o-clock side has just been pulled out. If the crack moved across the large area to start with then the ridge would not be there. That VL in the above photo is well and truly dead Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted February 23, 2019 Report Share Posted February 23, 2019 Mike, I would certainly change that one! James Paddock appear to have them, although at £115 that's probably the reason why! Congratulation on breaking the splitter Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted February 23, 2019 Report Share Posted February 23, 2019 bearing are supposed to spin on the sub axle if you do reuse that upright a clean up with some wet dry/emmery to smooth out the marks a little would be fine not sure the corrosion on the head of the thread is a problem , cracking starts within the root of the threads they look reasonable the seal face appears very worn has the tin cup been fitted on the outside of the felt should inside next the bearing ??? so the felt runs against the stub.??? Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeaTear Posted February 23, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2019 Is there an easy of removing the stub axle? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waynebaby Posted February 23, 2019 Report Share Posted February 23, 2019 It should come off if you undo the big nut on the back of the vertical link. It’s torqued up to @ 100 lb ft so it’ll take some effort. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeaTear Posted February 23, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2019 The nut wasn't a problem but the axle seems to be stuck fast in the VL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mpbarrett Posted February 23, 2019 Report Share Posted February 23, 2019 2 hours ago, Pete Lewis said: bearing are supposed to spin on the sub axle if you do reuse that upright a clean up with some wet dry/emmery to smooth out the marks a little would be fine not sure the corrosion on the head of the thread is a problem , cracking starts within the root of the threads they look reasonable the seal face appears very worn has the tin cup been fitted on the outside of the felt should inside next the bearing ??? so the felt runs against the stub.??? Pete Pete I have never really understood how the front wheel bearings are meant to work. There is nothing to stop the inner bearing rotating on the stub axle but that seems a bit strange when you have a bearing.. I suppose the outer taper bearing is clamped to the shaft and so the inner part will not rotate. Do you know why the inner bearing is designed to rotate on the stub axle but then does it matter? If I cant get a new link but there is no corrosion on the thread and most seem to break on the thread rather than the part above. If I cant get a new one then I will try to polish out the pitting. cheers mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waynebaby Posted February 23, 2019 Report Share Posted February 23, 2019 3 minutes ago, PeaTear said: The nut wasn't a problem but the axle seems to be stuck fast in the VL The WSM says to press out the stub, so I’m guessing that there’s some force required. It might be you need to take the VL out to do this but I’ve not done it myself so perhaps someone else might have a better idea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RogerH Posted February 24, 2019 Report Share Posted February 24, 2019 13 hours ago, PeaTear said: Is there an easy of removing the stub axle? Not normally. The stubby will have been there for a long time and they can become cold welded simply by contact. On my 4A back in the 90's they took over 20 ton. They went with a big bang and the press nearly took off. Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted February 24, 2019 Report Share Posted February 24, 2019 By design all floating wheel bearing have a housing clearance on either the inner or outer race so road impact is spread around , not all in one place so on fronts the outer ring is fixed press fit in the hub and the inner can turn on the stub axle, look on the back of the D washer to see the light spin markings on swing rear trunnions the inner is a press fit on the shaft the outer can rotate in the bearing this is correct the front Stub spindle can be a real tight fit in its tapered location in the stub and takes a good level of impact to shift it likewise on fitting a new spindle do a few miles retorque the fixing back nut and reset the bearing end float , Pete 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeaTear Posted February 24, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2019 Thankfully I didn't need to remove the stub axle. The top ball joint was a struggle. The VL look to be in good condition and I've got all the grease out, just to order a pile of parts and get it back together. Is it ok to have one of the water shields missing, unfortunately these parts are no longer available Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted February 24, 2019 Report Share Posted February 24, 2019 Is that the water seal between stub and carrier , any sealant will work , just stops road water getting in the back of the bearing Via the carrier and stub mating surfaces Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeaTear Posted February 24, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2019 I've attached a diagram with an arrow pointing to the part Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted February 25, 2019 Report Share Posted February 25, 2019 ok is was on the vit type upright , has a seal 0 ring the spider upright has a rubber cup splash thingy 138559 i cant source one from the places i use , seems its gold dust i presume it just shrouds the felt seal to keep unwanted out, not used on any others i guess if its missing its not the end of the world could a peice of rad hose etc make a shroud ?????? Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeaTear Posted February 25, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2019 Yeah it does appear to be just a shroud. The one I have is metal, the felt part is missing, and the other one no shroud but the felt is still on Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted February 25, 2019 Report Share Posted February 25, 2019 When you replace the felt seal you'll find them hard to fit unless it's an NOS original, they all seem to have been made by drawing around an old one so they're slightly too large, and distort easily. More than once I've taken new felt and glued it onto the original backing, which then slips straight in with no pressure required. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted February 25, 2019 Report Share Posted February 25, 2019 Agree with that , some felts and tin cups are from something similar but grossly oversize Can be just completely useless Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mpbarrett Posted February 26, 2019 Report Share Posted February 26, 2019 oh dear new vertical link arrived today, thread so tight I cannot get the trunnion to screw on. And there is damage from when the thread was cut near the top shoulder (looks like it picked up when it was being cut/rolled). Send back and another on its way... Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted February 26, 2019 Report Share Posted February 26, 2019 thats bad , i would guess its going to have an early life crack form from that ,, glad you spotted this and youre sending it back as we often see there is no F in Quality awful Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted February 26, 2019 Report Share Posted February 26, 2019 That's poor manufacture, and even worse quality control. That might have ended up killing somebody. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeaTear Posted March 8, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2019 New parts have arrived and everything going back on. One question on the trunnions. How tight should they be on. I can do they up hand tight and and back off approximately 1/8 of a turn and they are in the correct orientation or should I back off another full turn? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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