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Triumph Spitfire Clutch problems


KevinSke
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I have recently encountered a problem with the clutch actuation on my 1980 Spitfire 1500. The clutch had become extremely noisy when fully pressed. On removal the driven plate had been catching the flywheel bolts and also the cover plate levers had been damaged and looked as though the clutch centre had gone well over centre. Replaced cover plate, driven plate and release bearing. All other parts looked good no major wear. Reassembled and clutch did not release at all. Extended the push rod with a socket, clutch worked but sounded like it was catching the flywheel. It all appears to point to problems with the clutch operating lever. I intend to remove the gearbox and replace all the wearing items in that lever area. I cannot remember seeing a tolerance ring would that be significant? Would small amount of wear be so significant. 

Any thoughts

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Thanks for you help. I am pretty sure I fitted the new plate with the side marked ‘flywheel’ towards the flywheel. I will be happy if it’s that simple. I have attached picture of the original plate. The picture is of the flywheel face. This face is the flatter face. 

1CF113D6-48AA-49A1-B9F4-7073502D64B6.jpeg

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Well flatter side to  flywheel is correct

No toleramce ring bush on  the throw out can loose travel as pin is rattling good  fit or  even  dropped out on  the road

The fact it wont clear,   is this down to not fully bled slave, bleed nipple uppermost, and push piston fully back into the  cyl. To reduce volume then bleed.

Broken  missing damper springs is due to gearbox engine misalignment,

That can be missing  clutch hgs.  location dowels or bent rear engine plate

Pete

 

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Hi Pete,  pin is in place, checked earlier today. Is the pin fitted up or down? Will try bleeding as you suggest. The damper spring securing plates appear to have caught flywheel bolts etc and worn away allowing spring to drop out. Is this typical of misalignment ? The rear plate appears to be straight and have replaced all bolts and dowels 

Kevin

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The  pin has no head so  fits either way , many use a home made pin with head so it cant drop out  ei bolt with a  long plain shank

Or rod with split pin or super long clevis.

In normal use there should be no way the flywheel bolts can  make contact, something here is amiss.

My clutch   (its posted on here someway back)   failure chart only suggests misalignment as a factor in damper  spring departures  but fitting replacements is giving you problems, there is some obscure gremlin at work.

Pete

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yes the flywheel bolts look to close into the centre to catch the springs so I think a spring broke free (motive unknown but could just be metal fatigue as the design at that point doesnt look very good) and was trapped between the flywheel and friction plate where it caused the damage shown. Now I think with the new clutch you have a different problem which seems to be related to the operating mechanism....

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Thanks for your response, Possibly, not taken the gearbox out again yet, however seems similar.  I have read that the clutch release lever is rather susceptible to minor wear in linkages etc which is exaggerated due to the effect of the lever. Is that true? As this is vehicle is new to me I cannot guarantee all the parts are from the correct model. It appears to have had a hard life with getting in on the road a priority rather than quality of repair. 

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Have not checked all the  part numbers but all diaphragm 4 cylinder small  chassis  clutch throw outs  use the all common parts theres no reason for any variance.

On 4cyl cars  apart from getting the slave bled, and pivot pin retention theres little that goes wrong 

Pete

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11 hours ago, KevinSke said:

I have read that the clutch release lever is rather susceptible to minor wear in linkages etc which is exaggerated due to the effect of the lever

I had very long travel on the clutch pedal, even with the carpet out it only just disengaged on the floor. On checking the lever after taking gear box out, there was quite alot of wear in the push rod pivot and where the 2 plugs that carry the throw out bearing go through the aluminium fork. Rimmers supplied a second hand lever that was just as bad so I made bushes for my original. The pedal movement is now very good.

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Plus have a look at the pivot/clevis pin at the top of the clutch pedal where it attaches to the master cylinder. Both the hole in the pedal and those in the master cylinder pushrod can wear oval and the clevis pin can wear badly, leading to a significant loss of travel 

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55 minutes ago, DanMi said:

Plus have a look at the pivot/clevis pin at the top of the clutch pedal where it attaches to the master cylinder. Both the hole in the pedal and those in the master cylinder pushrod can wear oval and the clevis pin can wear badly, leading to a significant loss of travel 

I think I dodge to compensate for this wear is to elongate the M/C bracket holes and move it forward a bit?.

Dave

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Echo  the pedal spindles can seize this tries to rotate the spindle and  also wears the pedal bracket

This Can stop  the Mcyl returning and the reservior  seal  stays open  , makes bleeding and full strokes impossible.

With care slotted cyl bracket mounting to baulkhead can improve pedal,height and stroke but never move it to eliminate the pushrod end float ,

this must have some play, rattley good fit with foot off.

Pete

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks everybody that has helped. I have now fixed it.  The clutch foot pedal assembly was in good condition with little wear . Totally Refurbished clutch arm & gearbox bushes which had significant wear. Slave cylinder replaced as a precaution. Bled system really well. Would not work when assembled. Removed again and decided placed a 2mm spacer between thrust bearing and thrust lever. Now works perfectly. Thanks again 

Kevin

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