Fuse blown

[Clive]

I used a 6 way blade fusebox, but found one with the terminals at the back. Much better than having to extend wires. And an almost perfect height for the hole left when I cut the plastic part of the old one "in half" to remove the old fusebox. 

I didn't go quite as far as others in splitting up circuits, but I have got everything fused including the main feed to the light switch and the feed to the ignition switch. Plus a few relays added, (main and dipped beam, but also my extras, ECU, fuel pump, rad fan,) which have their own fuses.

I used vehicle wiring products. Another company which I am happy to recommend.

[dougbgt6]

Here is the 10 way box several of us have used, connectors on the back.

http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/product.php/1229/weatherproof-surface-mounted-led-fuse-box-10-way

 

And here is Aidan's thread on it's installation

 Doug

[Mjit]

16 hours ago, dougbgt6 said:

Pete,

1500 Spitfire will be like iana's and the wires crimped. So you'll have to cut and re-crimp if you're going for like for like. This box has a fixing screw on each corner. Worth checking out the 10 blade conversion threads on here.

Doug

If doing a straight like-for-like swap then you don't need to cut/recrimp, just release the connectors from the old fuse box (with more or less predudice considering it's scrap) and after a quick clean slot those in to the new box (binning the new connectors that came with the new fuse box).

Experience has told me you'll end up swearing while trying to get the foam gasket to compress enough for the plastic fuse box clips to clip, usually resulting in one catching/another not quite catching, overloading the caught one and snapping it...

[dougbgt6]

56 minutes ago, Mjit said:

just release the connectors from the old fuse box

Easier to say than do!  They are buggers to get out particularly with a wire attached. And why would you want to re-use them as they are part of the problem?

Doug

[Mjit]

23 hours ago, dougbgt6 said:

Easier to say than do!  They are buggers to get out particularly with a wire attached. And why would you want to re-use them as they are part of the problem?

Doug

They are just held in by a plastic 'tang' and yes, if you wanted to re-use the fuse box they WOULD be a bugger to release.  If you're scrapping the old one you can just jam a small screwdriver down there from the fuse side and break the tang.

While the existing connectors can be part of the problem that's just due to surface corrosion which is easy to clean when they are 'between fuseboxes'...and it's a much lazier option.

[dougbgt6]

Ah! Mine had no plastic tangs, the "blades" had tangs on them, they'd been put into position and the tang twisted to hold them in position. Trying to untwist them is the tricky bit. Also repeated squeezing of the blades makes the hole in the plastic bigger but also seems to make the blades softer and more easily bent. All in all the 10 blade box was easier to fit than patching up the old arrangement. 

Doug

[Badwolf]

Far easier to cut the wires out of the fuse box, fit them with individual connectors and attach them to a new fuse box. Mine had three feeds in (standard on most models I think as there are three fuses) and 8 wires out . Cannot see why you would want to replace like for like, not only for safety, but practicality. If one fuse on the old box blows it takes out all the stuff on that fuse (obviously). If you have separated all the wires coming out of the old box onto separate fuses its 1. easier to trace the fault and 2. you have a chance of getting home with the blown fuse (ie reversing light fault doesn't take out all your lights. I can understand the desire for originality but safety and ease is far more important to me.

[SpitFire6]

Hi,

 Forget the silicone cable unless sleeved as it's not tough enough & damaged by hydrocarbons. Things like grease and oil.

Use thin-wall cable/wire. Do not use any wire that can not handle 15 Amps for several seconds without smoking. ( Assuming the fuse will blow within this time).

Cheers,

Iain.