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Door Locks


watsona6

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Now then. Neither of my doors lock. Not a major. May buy a stoplock type device anyway. More concerning is the passenger door doesn’t always shut securely and at times can be pushed open. The passenger door is out of line a fair bit - I’m wondering if that’s playing havoc with the closing mechanism. Any ideas on how to adjust? Door bolts to get a better fit or directly at the locking components instead? Cheers. 

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yes its quite a fiddly job but worth spending time on as you want the rubber seal making a good contact (but not too much) with the door all the way round, the door gap the same all the way round, the door line matching the body plus the door flush fitting and latching smoothly....

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9 hours ago, johny said:

you want the rubber seal making a good contact (but not too much) with the door all the way round,

Hi. I think my door seals are not fitting great (correct profile ones, bought from Bill Davis) and water coming in. I was wondering if to slide a piece of paper in between seal/door, to find any tight/loose areas, then to bend the seal flange a bit, to correct, as the door fit appears not bad in general.

Do you think this would work.

Cheers, Dave   

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Spit and Gt6 door mechanisms are a nightmare of rods and plates slides and springs

There is a slide that fail in the lock,  subject of 3 d printing , but now avaiable in steel print, cant search on this  tablet right now  doug has some on trial  im sure he can  copy the link 

If you can assemble a typewriter in a dark  room you will get the hang of the  door rods 

Pete

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Pete,

Here is the link to the 3D printing thread. I was one of two who trialled the part manufactured by Louis, both eventually broke. As Johny suggests, Watson's door adjustment/alignment should be sorted out first. Then it may just be realignment of rods or reattachment of the strange rod to mechanism clips.  

 

Watson,

Here is a picture from Canley Classics Spares site showing the door look mechanism, the strange clips referred to are part GHF1180.

spitdoor.PNG.de48ea48e0a892f12a39d3456692ef42.PNG

Doug

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6 hours ago, daverclasper said:

Hi. I think my door seals are not fitting great (correct profile ones, bought from Bill Davis) and water coming in. I was wondering if to slide a piece of paper in between seal/door, to find any tight/loose areas, then to bend the seal flange a bit, to correct, as the door fit appears not bad in general.

Do you think this would work.

Cheers, Dave   

Thats exactly what you do Dave. Obviously its a combination of getting the door sitting correctly and the seal compressed the right amount all the way round. You could almost remove the seal completely to get the door position correct then refit the seal and tap the flange in or out to ensure it seals well without interfering with its closing. Dont forget that the quarterlight frame is also adjustable (and bendable) to get a good seal on the front edge (and roof on a saloon) which is important as a lot of wind noise can come from this area.

I think Universities should offer a degree qualification just in door fitting......

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Thanks. The drawing of the parts will help. I deduced that the latch was faulty by comparing it to my working drivers side latch. Basically once the door is shut you can just push it open as the mechanism fails to stay shut (until you pull the door handle). Anyway - new latch ordered then I’ll have a play maybe at the weekend and see if I can stop the kids falling out of the car!

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I’m not good at doors! Same issue as before but have a new latch fitted. I need some hinge bolts (missing) and some kicker plate screws (I’m going to need to drill them out I think). Anyone have the part numbers for Rimmers? Otherwise I’ll call them Monday (1979 1500). 

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8 minutes ago, dougbgt6 said:

Gentlemen, About six posts back I posted a Canley Classics diagram with parts numbers!

Nobody listens :(

db

Doug - I did see your post and used the image to work through the latch switch. I didn’t know about clicking on the image though for further details. 👍🏽

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I have gotten the door to sit better (closer to the kicker plate) with the replacing of the bolts (some had sheared and some were missing. Given I’ve replaced the latch (2nd hand) and tested it (with a screwdriver) it still doesn’t latch correctly (can be opened with a sharpish pull). Is it possible for a kicker plate to be faulty?!

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I have gotten the door to sit better (closer to the kicker plate) with the replacing of the bolts (some had sheared and some were missing. Given I’ve replaced the latch (2nd hand) and tested it (with a screwdriver) it still doesn’t latch correctly (can be opened with a sharpish pull). Is it possible for a kicker plate to be faulty?!

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Theres a good chance the lock is being held part open by the rods and inner release , this is on slotted holes and can be adjusted 

If its holding tension it is opening the lock release. There must be some small  clearance between the outer release and the lock lever

 You  seem to be duplicating posts or are your problems ....breeding

You need a spifire guru to comment on cills as  bodged overcills can wreck door fits if the gap was not controlled 

Pete

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Thanks Pete. Think I’m just talking about multiple issues on other posts when I should be sticking to one area (as they are split up into sections of the car). Does the rods/inner release still apply when I can activate the latch correctly using a screwdriver for example? The door fits better now but it’s not anywhere near perfect. 

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You can trip the latch with a scewdriver or anything,  it obviously should stay latched but you cant apply the same load by hand as the door shutting.

I would remove the door card and slacken the release screws  and move the release rearwards a bit.  Compare the result

The slide cam  inside the lock is prone to fail, your second hand one may be as bad as the orig

Pete

 

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