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Long differential studs


DrKai
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I can see a number of places with the longer studs required to fit the lowering block for mk1, and non-rotoflex mk3. However only standard studs for a rotoflex mark 3.

Is there any difference between them? If so does anyone know where to source the longer studs for a rotoflex mk3?

Thanks

Kai

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With a new rear spring my rotoflex Mk3 was too high at the back so we fitted longer studs with a lowering block.  The studs came from Canley but we had to use a die nut to extend the threads further down the studs as otherwise they would not clamp on the Mk3 spring.  

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I used some head studs from a spitfire engine on a car..... On my herald I bought bolts, which required careful measurement. They were needed as there was inadequate clearance above the spring to get studs in (courier spring plus 1" lowering block -awesome handling)

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1 hour ago, clive said:

I used some head studs from a spitfire engine on a car..... On my herald I bought bolts, which required careful measurement. They were needed as there was inadequate clearance above the spring to get studs in (courier spring plus 1" lowering block -awesome handling)

I've got lowering block+longer studs on my Spitfire and have to remember to roll the spring top forwards after sliding it across the car and before seating it so I can drop the studs through the spring box.  There's then (just about) enough room to giggle everything in to position.

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I managed to keep the standard cover with a (I think 3/4") lowering block but did need some creativity.

  1. Fit longer studs.
  2. Fit nylock.
  3. Hacksaw studs flush with top of nylocks.
  4. ...run around on a Saturday trying to find somewhere to buy pair of 3/8" UNF half nuts so you can remove the studs the next time you need to remove the spring.
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