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Spitfire Mk1 Steering Column Disassembly


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Sorry if this is elsewhere on the Forum but I am trying to see where I'm going wrong since the Haynes manual doesn't show this beginner all he wants!  I'm trying to separate the lower column from the upper so that I can withdraw the lower column through the bulkhead prior to lifting the body.  I can see the silver end cap - does it just tap off or is it threaded?  Once off, do the bushes that need removing just pop out?

I had planned to withdraw the whole column into the car but now want to avoid that.   My cars column wiring doesn't have "pop in" connectors and the wiring is tucked away.  Also a first look shows a mix of colours going in to the connectors and not necessarily coming out the same colour!

Thanks, Neil

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not sure what you mean by silver cap,  the colun splits in two at its collapsible slide joint the inner is just a clmapb bolt to the rack idler,

column bushes are located with pips into a hole in the tube , dont bother to remove them , drill the pip off press new bush in on top of the old 

yes not checked the diagram but mauve or brown can jump to blue  where the lighting is branched off the main battery feed 

pete         get a proper orig reprint WSM from club shop or elsewhere  , 

spitfire4_plate_t.jpg

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Pete, the "silver end cap" is on the outer column, which isn't shown in your diagram.

Neil,

As I recall from refurbishing my Spitfire's column a couple of years back, it doesn't need to come off at all. Also, you will find it tricky to remove the lower column in situ. If you don't want to remove the whole column from the car, your best bet is to remove the adjustment clamp (parts 7 to 12 on Pete's diagram) then push the lower column (part 3) up into the upper section. It will go most of the way in, certainly enough to clear the suspension turrets, as long as that clamp isn't constraining it to the length of the flat bit. You may need to remove the carbs/air cleaner/manifold to make body removal easier.

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Silver cap at the bottom is pull-off (top pic). If you drill out the buttons on the bushes, or crush them inwards (I used plumber's pliers ground down to points - don't damage the tube!) they'll then slide out with a bit of effort. Lubricate the new ones before sliding back in and keep the buttons in line with the holes so they'll pop into place once in the right spot. I did an article for The Courier on the Herald ones, but it'll not be in print for a month or two yet.

The horn (I think!) starts off purple then goes to brown, but please check before taking my word for it!

pic5.thumb.jpg.c388ca9acd22d37b3507e7d2f391628c.jpg pic4.jpg.8932277d4dc3a678bd0d5f9292ea6ff1.jpg

pic9.jpg.4f1942e8b2048c23a305677133d4a6fb.jpg

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Oh, something I forgot to say...

29 minutes ago, NonMember said:

 push the lower column (part 3) up into the upper section. It will go most of the way in,

It will go in, or indeed come out, quite easily if it's nice and clean. But it won't be clean. With many years of crud and general build-up around parts that don't slide over each other in normal use, you will probably find that the easiest way to move it is with the inner column in a bench vice. Fortunately for your concern over wiring, it's possible to remove the inner column without removing the outer, or the switch gear.

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Brilliant and thank you all.  By loosening off around the dash and clamps (but not sliding the inner column into the outer) and wiggling, as well as removing the linkage at the steering rack I can slide the whole thing back far enough as suggested to clear the suspension.

I wish accessing the clutch bleed nipple went this straightforwardly!  Mine is right on top of the slave cylinder as it is mounted and the pipe has been led directly in front of it.  I can't get a small finger up there let alone a spanner or socket.  I think I'll just put down floor protection and disconnect the pipe itself to drain the fluid.

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