Adrian Saunders Posted April 25, 2020 Report Share Posted April 25, 2020 On my GT6, both trunnions have the same part number on. Aren’t they handed because of the left hand or right hand Acme thread on the, also handed, vertical links? The part number on the trunnions is 645627 & they have Stanpart on too. Is it possible to incorrectly build using the same v link and trunnion on both sides? Will the steering arm still go through the v link and fix properly? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted April 25, 2020 Report Share Posted April 25, 2020 Yep, VLs are the same either side except the thread, so somebody has fitted one incorrectly at some point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Saunders Posted April 25, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2020 36 minutes ago, clive said: Yep, VLs are the same either side except the thread, so somebody has fitted one incorrectly at some point. And the LH steering arm could be fitted to the rh VL too? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted April 26, 2020 Report Share Posted April 26, 2020 Yes, perfectly symmetrical, apart from the thread. I am certain the trunnion less ones for GT6 are supplied 2 identical. Spitfires etc are different, don't have the separate caliper mounting brackets, having it cast as part of the VL. So obviously handed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted April 26, 2020 Report Share Posted April 26, 2020 Currently-supplied versions often have an L or an R on the bottom plate as a guide. I seem to remember that some trunnions were made multi-threaded and will fit either side - they'll have a criss-cross pattern of threads on the inside as opposed to the spiral of handed versions. I must see if I have any just to jog the memory. That VL in your top photo is suspect, Clive... badly worn where the top of the trunnion would have been and in the usual place to snap off. I'm assuming that's the reason it's nowhere near a car? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted April 26, 2020 Report Share Posted April 26, 2020 Indeed, I have been going through stuff in the loft and garage. This got stripped of trunnion/caliper bracket etc and was just sitting about handily. Can't get to the tip as shut. And even when it reopens I reckon there will be a couple of weeks when it will be heaving as everybody has been doing gardens and garages etc. Meanwhile my drive is piling up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Saunders Posted April 26, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2020 3 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said: Currently-supplied versions often have an L or an R on the bottom plate as a guide. I seem to remember that some trunnions were made multi-threaded and will fit either side - they'll have a criss-cross pattern of threads on the inside as opposed to the spiral of handed versions. I must see if I have any just to jog the memory. That VL in your top photo is suspect, Clive... badly worn where the top of the trunnion would have been and in the usual place to snap off. I'm assuming that's the reason it's nowhere near a car? For now then, I need to know about these non-handed/double-threaded vl’s. Then check if that’s what I have. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Saunders Posted April 26, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2020 Can anyone tell me the pitch of the Acme thread on the trunnions? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted April 26, 2020 Report Share Posted April 26, 2020 37 minutes ago, Adrian Saunders said: For now then, I need to know about these non-handed/double-threaded vl’s. Then check if that’s what I have. It's the trunnions that are non-handed - some of them, and I'll verify that asap - the others will (usually) be marked left or right on the bottom. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Saunders Posted April 26, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2020 Curses! I lost my own thread. Got it now. So same trunnions is ok as long as dual-thread but need handed vls. Right, there’s a pimple in the vls, maybe something to do with machining the blank. It’s on the section between the stub axle and the ball joint. For me, that ought to be handed too but, on my car it’s in front of the axle centre line on the NS and behind the line on the OS. Again, suggesting the same hand vl on both sides. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Saunders Posted April 26, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2020 The pimple. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted April 26, 2020 Report Share Posted April 26, 2020 Adrian, it seems like you have the wrong vl on one side. Either leave as is, or get a new vl/trunnion for the incorrect side. I have never seen a double threaded trunnion, and it would be a poor compromise anyway. FWIW I believe some of the very first heralds had the same thread each side. Makes very little difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted April 26, 2020 Report Share Posted April 26, 2020 17 minutes ago, clive said: I have never seen a double threaded trunnion, and it would be a poor compromise anyway. That's the problem - I'm starting to doubt myself, but seem to remember one from years back. I'll look for it and if I find one, will post. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted April 26, 2020 Report Share Posted April 26, 2020 5 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said: Currently-supplied versions often have an L or an R on the bottom plate as a guide. I seem to remember that some trunnions were made multi-threaded and will fit either side - they'll have a criss-cross pattern of threads on the inside as opposed to the spiral of handed versions. I must see if I have any just to jog the memory. I'd love to see such a trunnion! The stress on the threads must be great - the strain on a network rather than continuous threads would be even greater. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Saunders Posted April 26, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2020 Darn it. I’m just rebuilding mine so that it will at least roll. We’ll be moving house ASAP so I need it mobile. Thing is, I was setting everything up level: floor (shimmed tyre savers) and I have the wheel centres the same height front /rear/both sides. Expensive laser level sorted that. I compared the trunnion fixing to wishbone centres and that’s where it all went wrong. I have trunnion-less uprights, larger stubs/bearings, alloy hubs, adjustable top ‘bones in stock but, I was planning on getting all that done next winter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Saunders Posted April 26, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2020 What do you all use on your exposed balls?! On the trunnion-less uprights. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted April 26, 2020 Report Share Posted April 26, 2020 wd40. About once a year, probably should do it more often, not a lot of effort. I would be swapping now. Will need geometry resetting. I used string and a tape measure, just like McLaren. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Saunders Posted April 26, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2020 5 minutes ago, clive said: wd40. About once a year, probably should do it more often, not a lot of effort. I would be swapping now. Will need geometry resetting. I used string and a tape measure, just like McLaren. The thing is, WD40 isn’t a lubricant. I see that they do a silicone based lube spray. Is that what you use? I will start dismantling tonight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted April 26, 2020 Report Share Posted April 26, 2020 No, I use wd40. As recommended by Canleys. And Guy Martin. (he tried a load of plusgas sent to him by the company, he sent it back having triied it, with a note saying it was no better.... And that is not made public by plusgas who wanted his endorsement!) In fact, WD 40 is a lubricant. Read the spec sheet, it is not just water displacement. In fact its first claim is it lubricates.... https://www.wd40company.com/files/pdf/wd_40tec16952473.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted April 26, 2020 Report Share Posted April 26, 2020 2 hours ago, JohnD said: I'd love to see such a trunnion! The stress on the threads must be great - the strain on a network rather than continuous threads would be even greater. Me too, it would prove to me that I hadn't imagined it!! T'was long ago in a Galaxy far far away, but I can still picture it, so need to conform what exactly it was! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Saunders Posted April 26, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2020 7 hours ago, clive said: No, I use wd40. As recommended by Canleys. And Guy Martin. (he tried a load of plusgas sent to him by the company, he sent it back having triied it, with a note saying it was no better.... And that is not made public by plusgas who wanted his endorsement!) In fact, WD 40 is a lubricant. Read the spec sheet, it is not just water displacement. In fact its first claim is it lubricates.... https://www.wd40company.com/files/pdf/wd_40tec16952473.pdf I stand thoroughly corrected. Has WD40 always claimed lubrication? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Saunders Posted April 26, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2020 (edited) Offside VL removed this evening and the trunnion has a single thread. Have got Canley Classics trunnion-less links to go on with adj top wishbone too. Edited April 27, 2020 by Adrian Saunders Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted April 27, 2020 Report Share Posted April 27, 2020 5 hours ago, Adrian Saunders said: I stand thoroughly corrected. Has WD40 always claimed lubrication? I don't think the formulation has changed at all. But I reckon it is a popular myth that WD40 is just for water displacement. Could have been spread by competitors, and indeed there are probably better lubricants out there, but WD40 seems to be a really good all-rounder. Seems to very good at rust prevention, and is/was used by NASA. And now I am sounding like as WD40 salesman... The Guy Martin thing is funny though...typical him, and the chap at Plusgas who was hoping to rope him in was gutted. If you are really bored, have a look on youtube etc for tests. Many are for rust penetration/undoing nut etc. And are not really good scientific tests. Too much overlap and spread of results as sample sizes far too small to take seriously. But most stuff lubricates and indeed penetrates. I will stop now before some members of this community get all over excited. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blubayou Posted April 27, 2020 Report Share Posted April 27, 2020 I do remember back in the 70's when it smelt really funky, no Idea what was i it, but probably some dangerous additive which was later removed. I used if for cleaning & lubing my racing bike. It was also called 'Magic Rocket' WD 40 can anyone else remember this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted April 27, 2020 Report Share Posted April 27, 2020 Probably because, as another ad put it, it works on tight nuts and rusty tools. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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